Hyper Grounding
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From: El Paso, Texas
Car: 1987 IROC Z
Engine: 350 TPI L98 block
Transmission: 700R4
Hyper Grounding
Has anyone here tried one of these hypergrounding kits that all the imports are using I am curious as to what type of performance can be seen from it. I don't know much about it, but the brochure sounds nice.
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Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 1,185
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From: Kaneohe,HI
Car: 89 RS
Engine: 383 in building process
Transmission: 700r4
"In Theory" I believe that alot of people neglect their grounding cables. If you take notice, a lot of the grounding cables, especially the one from the motor to car, are very thin. I think that you could probably just make your own thicker ground straps or cables for better electrical circulation. I'm no wiring expert & this is just my opinion. But to answer your question, yes, i believe that a better grounding system of cables would enhance your vehicle performance all around, especially if you run a lot of electronics. Just my 2 cents.
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Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 1,185
Likes: 1
From: Kaneohe,HI
Car: 89 RS
Engine: 383 in building process
Transmission: 700r4
Oh one more thing. My friend ran better ground cables on his car. Not a third gen though, its an Integra. He ended up having a smoother idle. I think its one of those things that you wouldn't notice any difference without some dyno runs to see its benefits. I say go for it! Can't hurt your car & also it would give you cooler looking cables. Good luck.
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From: Salem, NH
Car: 1999 Chevy Cavalier
Engine: 2.2
Transmission: 5 speed
Axle/Gears: it's part of the transmission
To that I say....give me whatever it costs for that 'hyperground kit' and I'll fix all the grounds in your car.
Same with the stereo wiring too....if you want to spend $200 for wires..please give me your money!
Same with the stereo wiring too....if you want to spend $200 for wires..please give me your money!
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iTrader: (1)
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 2,480
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From: El Paso, Texas
Car: 1987 IROC Z
Engine: 350 TPI L98 block
Transmission: 700R4
As all things in the **** community, these kits are not made for thirdgens... no loss however, the logic behind them seems to simply be logic. I'll try it myself once I've got my vehicle back.
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Joined: Dec 2003
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From: Point Marion PA.
Car: 1982 CAMARO;
Engine: 1985 LB9;
Transmission: T-5/
Ok the more ground points you have the Less restiance will be in the ground, therfor porviding a Better connection.
The thing is that say you have a amp for your stereo in th hatch, and you run a 4ga power wire from the battery back to the amp, then you take a 1 foot section of ground wire and connect it to the First Bolt or screw in the hatch. If The body isn't grounded well it puts more resitance in the line and Won't allow the amp to as efficient.
You need to make sure that the car is like complete circut. The battery grounds to the engine with a 4ga wire and one to the fender with about 16ga. The engine is mounted using rubber or polyureathen mounts, (not a good conductor) But if the car is still equiped with the Braided Ground strap that goes form the firewall to the back of the engine, it complets the circut.
If ya don't belive me get out the DVM and Check the resistance on some of the ground points on the rear of The Car. Some times they are good, some times not.
The more ground points from the battery to different parts, panels, the less chance of having a bad ground.
My car had a starting problem that when you turned the key to start it it would crank over once then hesitate then crank normal and start. After I went to AutoZone and baught a 3' wide braided ground strap and hoooked one end to the firewall and the other end to the bolt thats holds the bellhousing on I haven't had this problem again.
Buy a Braid Ground strap and Hook it up. Then You can go to your local stereo shop buy Some 4ga ground wire and some 8ga ground wire, connectors, and a distrabution block (1-4ga input 4-8ga outputs),make your own ground kit and save some money.
Just make sure the areas that hook to sheet metal that you sand any paint off the sheet metal Before mount the ground wire then afterwards get some clear Spray paint and Spray it to avoid corrision.
Sorry about spelling.
Just my .02
The thing is that say you have a amp for your stereo in th hatch, and you run a 4ga power wire from the battery back to the amp, then you take a 1 foot section of ground wire and connect it to the First Bolt or screw in the hatch. If The body isn't grounded well it puts more resitance in the line and Won't allow the amp to as efficient.
You need to make sure that the car is like complete circut. The battery grounds to the engine with a 4ga wire and one to the fender with about 16ga. The engine is mounted using rubber or polyureathen mounts, (not a good conductor) But if the car is still equiped with the Braided Ground strap that goes form the firewall to the back of the engine, it complets the circut.
If ya don't belive me get out the DVM and Check the resistance on some of the ground points on the rear of The Car. Some times they are good, some times not.
The more ground points from the battery to different parts, panels, the less chance of having a bad ground.
My car had a starting problem that when you turned the key to start it it would crank over once then hesitate then crank normal and start. After I went to AutoZone and baught a 3' wide braided ground strap and hoooked one end to the firewall and the other end to the bolt thats holds the bellhousing on I haven't had this problem again.
Buy a Braid Ground strap and Hook it up. Then You can go to your local stereo shop buy Some 4ga ground wire and some 8ga ground wire, connectors, and a distrabution block (1-4ga input 4-8ga outputs),make your own ground kit and save some money.
Just make sure the areas that hook to sheet metal that you sand any paint off the sheet metal Before mount the ground wire then afterwards get some clear Spray paint and Spray it to avoid corrision.
Sorry about spelling.
Just my .02
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