where is it what does it control what would you loose if it went out?

 

Hello Mike,

Here is a picture of it and the items it controls. You wouldn't loose much, just the items in the circled area on the second picture.

 

page 2

 

if fusible link d went out would i loose operaqtion to the suel pump.. i pulled the fuel pump relay and turned the key to on and the engine light went on as normal.. would this narrow it down to the fuel pump?

 

No, but if the 20 amp fuse blew then you'd lose power to the fuel pump.

When you turn the key to ON, the engine light should come on. When you start the engine, it should turn off.

 

You never told us what your troubles were. You've now hinted at the fuel pump.

To test the fuel pump, pull the fuel pump relay out of its connector and jump the ORANGE and TAN/WHT wires. If the fuel pump runs then it's fine, if it does not run, then it is bad or you have a broken wire.

You could also apply 12v to the RED wire in cavity G of the ALDL connector. However, this is trickey because you won't easily find a 12v power source from the car to do this.

 

His problem is that the 20 AMP fuse keeps popping. A simple way to apply 12 volt power to pin "G" is to use a 14 volt battery from a cordless drill, works for me.

 

my troubles started as the 20 amp fuse next to the battery keep poppin,.. more and more til whenever i turned the key to on it would pop automatically.. ive been frantically searching for any way to test to find out that its not the fuel pump.. im not sure if i could handle that job.. one mechanic told me to pull the realy for the fuel pump... i pulled the relay that corresponded to the color combinations of the wires and when i turned the key to on to see if the fuse pops it didnt.. the engine light came on normally and i didnt hear the pump prime.. does anyone have a picture of the realys for an 86 trans am and circle the fuel pump relay.. also if my maf power realy or maf went out would i have similiar problems.. or if one of my coolant fan relays went out would i have similar problems.. fuse blow when i turn the key no pump prime..




does the ecm tell the pump to prime or does it to it by the ingition telling it to>?

 

That'll work, I'll also add that the ground has to be connected to the vehicle ground somewhere. 12v from another source won't work unless is shares the vehicle ground.

 

Here's how to identify the fuel pump relay. It has the following wires going to it:

ORG
TAN/WHT
GRN/WHT
BLK/WHT
RED

The ECM tells the fuel pump to prime.

 

these are the wires leading to the relay that pops the fuse..

orange
orange
green/white
black/white
Tan/white

fuel pump?
Maf power?

im stumped

 

Okay Michael,

Here are the pin and color code for the fuel pump relay.

pin "A"= tan/wht (pump

pin "B" = blk/wht (groundl )

pin "C" = grn/wht (ecm signal)

pin "D" = red (aldl)

pin "E" = org (bat power)

What looks like a second orange wire is probably the red wire fading. Yes the ECM tells the fuel pump to prime for two seconds through pin "C" when the key is turned to the "ON" position. Your engine light always comes on when the key is turned to the "ON" or "START" position and will remain on until the engine starts or the key is turned to the "OFF" position. That is normal operation. Take that fuel pump relay out of the connector and take a good and I mean a good look at the wires in the connector. Make sure there are no loose wire strands in there making contact with another wire. Make sure all the pins are seated tight in there. Make sure there are no bare wires touching on it. Make sure the connector is not broken anywhere. Make sure there is no problem with the battery cable or the alternator

 

maybe what is the problem is the guy who sold me this car's mischevious tactics..

second orange is a yellow



orange
yellow
green/white
black/white
tan/white

 

Okay,

Now look at the connector and correspond the colors you see with the locations I have posted, Next look under your dash at the ALDL and see what color wire goes into pin "G"(bottom left hand side)

 

its a red wire

 

Makes ya wonder, don't it? Take a multimeter and set it to OHM's and stick one probe in pin "D" where the yellow wire is and the other probe in pin "G" of the ALDL and see if you have continuity.

 

what do you think trickster or anyone else..
if the fuel pump relay is not blowing the fuse could it be the oil switch.. and where is that located? it looks as the fuel pump is connected as nessesart.. i read on a forum that the oil pressure switch will stop the fuel pump from priming. my oil pressure gauge does not function correctly.. i turn it on and either it reads zero or its reads some low number and moves irradically

 

The oil pressure switch has to close to power the fuel pump. For the switch to close, the engine needs to be running to build oil pressure. So, with or without the oil pressure switch connected, the fuel pump will not prime. The fuel pump primes because the ECM sends a signal out the DK GRN/WHT wire to the relay for a few seconds to pick up the fuel pump relay. The prime function has nothing to do with the oil pressure switch.

The oil pressure switch is located right above the oil filter.

Your oil pressure sending unit for the gauges is located on the back of the block. It's a large canister with one TAN wire going to it. Sound like it's bad.

 

when i turn the key it makes a click click noise.. instead of the huuuuuum click,, could that be the oil switch? what could make that click click.. it doesnt sound like its coming to the relay.. the oil pressure guage is not function properly.. the sender is bad.. could that make the switch go bad if the sender reads all messed up..

 

how do use a voltmeter to find shorts. in detail please. also how can i run direct power to the fuel pump.. do i go behind the back seat carpeting? what could i use to do this? are there any fusible links to the fuel pump?.. if there is a short in the MAF circuit somewhere could this make the car not start and blow the 20 fuse next to the battery?