I need a second opinion on my starting problems.

My car wouldn't start (no click or anything, security light acting normal) and I thought I had traced the problem to the Starter Enable / Theft Relay (Part #14093107) under the driver side kick panel.

When I placed a fused jumper between the two large wires (green and yellow) the car would crank but not actually start. I figured this was because the two smaller wires going to the relay must also have to be properly connected. If some one could please verify this it would be great.

So anyways I bought a new relay from a local dealer and installed it and it still won't start or even crank. I tested the relay connectors with a continuity tester across the same slots I used a fused jumper and it did not light up. (not connected)

So if anyone can answer these questions I would really appreciate it:

1) Is it normal for a the car to crank but not actually start when you use a fused jumper across the large wires going to the starter relay?

2)Should the relay connectors for those large wires test postive for continuity?

3)How likely is it that the new relay is bad?

Thanks for your time

 

Ok I have done some searching and I came across a troubleshooting guide posted by Trickster:

https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...hreadid=234765

Under table 7 it says that if putting a jumper on the starter relay makes the enigne to crank then you should check the dark green wire for an open. What does it mean to check a wire for an open?

 

Checking a wire for an open means checking both ends of the wire for continuity. If there is no reading then the circuit is "open" and the energy flow is interrupted. The wire should be disconnected on one end before checking for open.

As far as your issue goes, it sounds like a "Neutral Safety Switch" problem. If the shifter is not fully in PARK or if the clutch is not all the way in (manual trans), the engine will not crank. but if you already do this then check the switch to verify if it works anyways.

-Ozzy

 

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