johnjm22

Whenever I go to start my car all the power cuts out as soon as I turn the key. Then the power will all the sudden come back on like 15 minuets later.

I checked the fuses, battery cables, and the ground on the engine block. They were all fine.

Can someone help me?

Edit: it was just the battery connection after all!

Trickster

If you are losing all power the moment that you turn the key, you either have a very, very, large power drain or a battery that doesn't have the amperage to handle a load. Take it to an auto parts store and have them test it for you.

johnjm22

But I just put a new battery in it.

What kind of power drain could be that large?

Trickster

I don't know exactly what kind of drain you are talking about. However you did say in your first post that you turn the key and lose all power and fifteen minutes later it is back. Now do you mean that you have no electrical power at all anywhere or just that the starter is getting no power?

Zepher

iTrader: (1)

My starter wire was loose, the main one from the battery and sometimes it would lose all power when starting the car.

AM Racer

If the whole thing drops dead then you're losing a connection.
If you replaced the battery and the connections are tight, check the other end of the cable(s). Also check block to chassis grounds.
Easy enough to check for a high draw. Have someone connect a volt meter ( dvm) to the battery while you turn the key. If the voltage stays high, it's not the battery.

blackbeauty

I'm having a problem just like this myself.

In my case I think it's my immobiliser. It hooks into the 12V line that goes into the ignition switch, and at times when my car appears dead, I get 4V coming out of the ignition switch. 4V obviously isn't enough to run squat. It may be causing the large voltage drop.

The car isn't completely dead though, as the electric seats still work and the stereo still displays the time, except it won't actually turn on. My interior courtesy lights work too.

Do your headlights still work? When my car behaves oddly and I hit the headlight button, the lights all turn on, but the headlight doors don't open (I've a Trans Am). If I turn off the lights, and do it two more times, the headlights turn on fine and the doors open up. Then the rest of the car gets power back and the car will then start.

I haven't as yet confirmed that the immobiliser is the fault, but I'm working on it.

Baylisstic12

I had the almost the same problem. I was going to go to work one morning, and I turned the key, the chime and choke light went on and as soon as I tried to start the car it went dead. Ended up the fusable link going to the starter solenoid was powder, along with my starter fried. I replaced it all and it worked fine. Then two weeks later the fuel pump went. Its been great ever since.

johnjm22

Well whenever I turn the key everything goes out. I mean everything! No headlights, sterio, dome light, nothing. The car has no power anywhere.

Trickster

As mentioned earlier, check your fusible links down at the starter solenoid. They may be blown or grounding out. Also check your connectors for the battery and starter solenoid.

johnjm22

What do you mean at the starter soleniod? The fusible links aren't located where the rest of the fuses are?

Trickster

No, they aren't located in the same area as the rest of the fuses. It is these wires that are marked in this picture. There is also a purple wire that goes on a small post on the solenoid that is marked "S".

blackbeauty

Where is the actual fuse in a fusable link, or it just an expression?

AM Racer

It's not an actual fuse.
It's basically an undersized piece of wire used as a fuse.
If overloaded, it melts off.

Trickster

Yes, a fusible link is four sizes smaller than the wire it protects.

johnjm22

Thanks for the info. Good picture.

blackbeauty

Ah, now I get it. Is the fusable link up by the starter as indicated by the arrows on Trickster's image? If a fusable link goes, what's the best method of fixing it? Do you need a third gen specific wire or what? What's the rating of the link?

Trickster

The best method of fixing a fusible link is cutting off the bad piece and splicing a new one in. As mentioned earlier, a fusible link is 4 sizes smaller than the wire it is protecting. Example: if wire size is 12 ga., then the fusible link size will be 16 ga. Yes the items with the areas pointing to them from the circled lettering are the fusible links and they go on the same post as the battery cable on the solenoid.

blackbeauty

Thanks!

AM Racer

The only thing that steers me away from a link is reconnecting itself again well enough to start the car.

Kit Hopper

So I have a 2005 Hyundai Elektra with a switch... I Litterally lose all power as soon as I turn the key... If I unhook the battery and then hook it back up a reset so to speak then ecerything is working until I try to start again... Please help

OrangeBird

iTrader: (1)

Hi Kit Hopper ,

First and foremost , the "Third Gen F body" terminology in our forum name represents the third generation of the GM F body platform , which are 1982 through 1992 Chevy Camaro and Pontiac Firebird cars . This forum is supposed to be exclusive of all other car discussions except for these two car models . Now with that said , and since your problem is not a specific "Hyundai problem" but instead a very generic problem that can happen to ANY car regardless of make & model , I'll tell you this ;

You have either a bad battery , or a bad connection somewhere in the battery's wiring .

Now since we have no info on Hyundai specifics , if it IS the wiring , the general failure point is at the wire ends , either the battery terminals themselves of on the other end where those big wires attach to the engine .

Good Luck .....

phamhoad

I have the same problem with huyndai santa fe 2007. sometimes when I turn the key, everything black out. if I open and close the hood, the electric went back on the display. I talked to some technician and it might be the ignition switch or the key. I'm not sure how likely it might be badground, bad battery connection or the ignition switch, please help!

OrangeBird

iTrader: (1)

If post #22 in this thread doesn't help you, your two options are to either go find a Hyundai forum, or, dump that POS and buy a thirdgen Camaro or Firebird.

For all the members here, the best choice between the two is as obvious as a punch in the face.......

ironwill

Huyndai/Kia (same company, same poor-quality vehicles) cars have been plagued with multiple electrical and mechanical recalls for years now, the most recent of which warns owners not to park their cars inside garages or under carports due to the possibility of engine compartment fires after the car is parked.

You'd do well to get rid of that thing and buy anything else not made by that company.

vorteciroc

As poorly as some Vehicles are produced today...

The assembly-lines for Third-Gens were still pretty bad.
There were some very unhappy GM Factory Employees back then.

LOL! I have an old photo (somewhere) of a Third-Gen at a Dealership with the Door-Panel removed...
Customer had just purchased a Camaro, and complained of a "crunching noise" when the Driver's power-window went completely down.
The Technician found an empty Pack of Cigarettes and a crushed Soda-Can inside the Doors Window-Cavity.
Those GM Factory Employees built our Third-Gens really well!

phamhoad

Problem solved. It's just bad ground and some corrosion on negative terminal

OrangeBird

iTrader: (1)

Well there ya go, now that it's running, sell it quick and go buy a third gen Camaro or Firebird and we'll be happy to answer all of your questions regarding it........