during the past few months my car decides not to start whenever it wants, at complete random times, leaving me stranded. i've posted before and was told it might be the vats key, but i dont think it is.

when i turn the key sometimes i get nothing from the starter, everything else runs, lights, radio, windows, but not even a click from the starter, if i wait 10-15 mins, it'll start right up as if nothing was wrong.

Somewhere i heard that your starter needs atleast 12v, or it wont even click over, and during these times when its not starting, if i put the key in the RUN position, the battery meter reads just under 12v.

the battery is atleast 2 years old, and it looks pretty good, water levels are also good in the battery.

could the problem still be my battery?

also the starter is less than a year old, so thats why im trying to count it out.

 

If you are having these problems and someone tells you that it is possibly vats. It is possible that they are right. When you have these periods of the car not starting, does the security light stay on until you release the key? What kind of shape is the contacts on your key and inside your lock cylinder. If they are worn, the resistance value cannot be correctly read by the VATS control module and it will lock out the starter and fuel injectors for four minutes until it re-sets itself. Yes the starter nedds at least 12 volts to start but will settle for as low as 11 volts.

 

i had my key copied a few months ago to try and fix the problem but it did nothing. so it's a tight fit in the keyhole.

if im luckey and not on a uphill, i can push the car and bumpstart and it starts right up. does that mean the vats are just canceling out? also a 4 min wait wont do it, the stupid thing needs to sit for atleast 10 mins before i try again.

i guess im just hoping its an easier problem to fix then messing with the vats system

Just Wondering: Is here anyway to short circuit the vats key, to disable the system temporarily, and see if i can recreate my problem?

 

Well just on a wild a&& guess here, have you maybe thought about checking your clutch start switch on the clutch pedal since you have a manual transmission?

 

hah, yes many times, one of the first things i went after.

tomarrow im also gonna try to recreate this problem and see if a jumpstart works, atleast the will rule out the battery

 

The starter needs 11-12v to start the engine, but the solenoid will "click" with as little as 8 volts. If it won't click at all, and then starts right up just fine 10 minutes later, your problem is not in the battery or the starter.

Typically, VATS issues aren't in the key. Most of the time what happens is the two little white wires that come off the lock cylinder and run down the steering column break at the lock cylinder end. Often you will get intermittent contact, sometimes you can tilt the steering column or even just wiggle it and the car will start. Run a search on "VATS bypass" and follow the instructions (I know they're out there, I've given them myself a few times.) It's cheap, easy, and will either fix the problem or eliminate the most likely cause.

 

haha funny story, actually not so funny. my friend had a similar problem with his 4th gen Z28 and it WAS his VATS, he also paid 200$ to repair, ANYWAYS,. He told me he could fix my car, so he gets in, pulls the tilt lever, and shook the steering column so hard, that my highbeam lever broke. now i have a radioshack switch in there to work my highbeams.

you can bet he got a few punches to the arm and his daily dose of insults afterwards

......i guess im saying, i tried the shake test, with no good outcome. And i'm on the hunt for a VATS bypass page

 

Have you checked your ignition switch and the starter enable relay (located under the left kick panel near the fuse panel on your car)? Also check the connections down at the starter solenoid.