Let me begin by saying that my camaro is an 88 with a V6 that I tore out. I was planning on runnning a carb'd 350 with no electronics hence I don't need the ECM. Anyway, I found the ECM and followed the wies out to the engine compartment. I see the harness where it comes out of the small hole kind of by the wheel well?? and then runs up the passenger side fender. I completely cut the whole harness first, and then went inside under the dash to remove the computer. Well, the ECM wires are all cut, but there were also two other connectors and shared the same harness and routing. So now I am thinking that I am fukked! I tried to follow the wiring from these two connectors(which kinda look clear by the way) and see that they run up behind the dash somewhere. Did I really mess up the wiring? All I really want is for the headlights(hi/low beams)to work as well as the wipers, horn and other accessories that are essential for daily driving. I didn't touch any of the wiring harness on the driver side so the starter wires and everything should still be there. If anybody can give me any info, it would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Paul Moore

 

Hi.
No I don't think you have.
I have a 1991 RS camaro that used to have a TBi 305. I bought a proper shop manual, and traced every wire that went through that wheelwell. Apart from 2, they were all no good after ECM removal. The 2 that were left (both orange) were the permanently hot feed to the underhood light and another perm feed to somewhere else! Anyway, I removed all of them! And everything worked with the carbed 350 I have in there now.
Don't worry, just carry on and then try it all out.

Good luck.
Andy.

 

All the essential wiring you need comes in through the driver side connectors.
Unless a previous owner rigged up some wires through the passenger side, it should still work.
The old carpenter's adage also applies to wiring....measure twice, cut once.

 

That is great! Thanks so much for your input, I was really worried that I messed up the wiring in the car because of it. You can chalk it up to being overexcited about taking on a new project car and jumping into it way underprepared. You have given me peace of mind, thanks so much, Paul Moore

 

yea... I wanted so bad to rip my ecm out and stomp on it for hours and hours.. but no, I have an electric speedo that works with this horrid ecm that causes me so many unspeakable problems. Lucky you, 88 Camaro didnt come with an electric speedo. Anyway.. for the record, ripping an ecm out and disconnecting the wires under the dash, bad Idea. Disconnect them at the engine first, test and see if it makes a difference if you dont know what you disconnected.

 

Autometer makes a VSS signal creater that fits into the speedo cable hole in the tranny and has wires coming out of it that you connect to one of thier speedos. I'm sure that you caould hook it up to the factory gauge and it would be okay.

 

There are two parts to the ECM wiring harness. The main harness passes out the passenger side, right behind the front tire/wheel. I am fairly sure that this is the only harness you need to take out.

There is also a 16 pin connector, typically known as the I/P connector. This exits the ECM and goes toward the drivers side, under the dash. This includes the ALDL connector, SES light and shift light (M/T). I do not think that this has to be removed.

I took mine out as I went with an aftermarket ECM, so I traced all the wires and removed them. If I had known it would take so much time, I would not have gone through the trouble. If you decide to do this, you will need to un-tape the complete harness from behind the dash in order to get those wires out. It is a pretty big job.

 

Well, that is the thing, I am not worried about the shift lights, etc. I am making my own gauge panel and using all Autometer Ultra-Lite gauges with electrical senders. I'm going to have a 5 inch speedo and tach, 2 5/8 coolant temp, fuel level, voltmeter and oil pressure in the cluster just like the fatory one. Then, it the dual pillar pod there will be fuel pressure and intake air temperature. Then on the firewall lip by the wipers, and under the cowl induction hood, there will be cylinder head temp, oil temp, boost/vacuum and possibly NOS pressure if I decide to add the juice later on. Trust me, anybody that knows me knows that I am a gauge *****! If the headlights and dimmer switch work that's all I need for the gauges. I want to have the wipers work so if I have to drive in the rain(I live in FL remember?) I can although I really don't know how the car will drive in the rain with a 420+HP small block. That is why I am seriously looking into 315's for the rear. I honestly don't really care that much about the horn. Turn signals are a must for me, but noone down here knows how to use them! I need the wiring for the starter so that it will still work with the key which reminds me. I have the small wire that goes to the solenoid, as well as 2 wires with fusible links that run from the drivers side harness. The positve batery cable has a small wire and a large wire with ring terminals that go to the starter as well however, one of the wires is cut about 6 inches past the fusible link. What exactly are these fusible links for? Thanks, and sorry for the long post! Paul Moore