I need an ignition wiring diagram or the colors/locations of a few wires
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Joined: Sep 2003
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From: Readington, NJ
Car: 88 GTA
Engine: 350 TPI
Transmission: T-56
Axle/Gears: 9 bolt w/ 3.73
I need an ignition wiring diagram or the colors/locations of a few wires
I'm in the process of installing a remote start system (came with the alarm) in my car and need some help. I don’t plan on using remote start to show off, but it would be nice to have it working so the car can be warm by the time I get out to it in the morning.
I need to know what color these wires are: 12v power (the source the unit will pull it's power from - constant hot), the output for the starter, IGN 1 (the wire that stays hot to keep the motor running), ACC (power for the heater blower, etc), and ground (probably black?).
Also, what’s the easiest way to get to the ignition wires? Obviously, the steering column would be a pain to get into. Are the wires exposed at any point (bottom of the column?) that would be easier to splice into?
I need to know what color these wires are: 12v power (the source the unit will pull it's power from - constant hot), the output for the starter, IGN 1 (the wire that stays hot to keep the motor running), ACC (power for the heater blower, etc), and ground (probably black?).
Also, what’s the easiest way to get to the ignition wires? Obviously, the steering column would be a pain to get into. Are the wires exposed at any point (bottom of the column?) that would be easier to splice into?
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From: Alamogordo, NM, USA
This is for an '83, but might be the same for an '88.
Red 12 ga: hot
Pink 12 ga: hot in ignition and start positions
Brown 12 ga: hot in accessory and run positions
Black 18-20 ga: ground
These wires are around the vicinity of the steering column and are reasonably exposed.
Larry
Red 12 ga: hot
Pink 12 ga: hot in ignition and start positions
Brown 12 ga: hot in accessory and run positions
Black 18-20 ga: ground
These wires are around the vicinity of the steering column and are reasonably exposed.
Larry
Thread Starter
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Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 1,232
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From: Readington, NJ
Car: 88 GTA
Engine: 350 TPI
Transmission: T-56
Axle/Gears: 9 bolt w/ 3.73
Many thanks. Ill go outside and check everything with a point tester.
For my next question: will vats get in the way of the remote start? Should I bypass it?
Edit: after doing a search and reading some, is there some way I could rig the remote start to trip a relay that would send the right resistance to the two vats wires?
For my next question: will vats get in the way of the remote start? Should I bypass it?
Edit: after doing a search and reading some, is there some way I could rig the remote start to trip a relay that would send the right resistance to the two vats wires?
Last edited by Gummie; Nov 25, 2004 at 10:26 AM.
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From: New Mexico
Car: 87 Firebird,
Engine: lq4
Transmission: gto t56 (mn12)
I think the vats will get in the way of the remote starter but im not sure. They do it on newer cars so maybe not. My guess would be if you have something setup to bypass it then your car would be easier to steal. If you are going to bypass it then you probably just need to cut the wire from the vats to the ecm. Dont take my word for it though im just guessing.
Thread Starter
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Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 1,232
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From: Readington, NJ
Car: 88 GTA
Engine: 350 TPI
Transmission: T-56
Axle/Gears: 9 bolt w/ 3.73
Originally posted by FirehawkSS
I think the vats will get in the way of the remote starter but im not sure. They do it on newer cars so maybe not. My guess would be if you have something setup to bypass it then your car would be easier to steal. If you are going to bypass it then you probably just need to cut the wire from the vats to the ecm. Dont take my word for it though im just guessing.
I think the vats will get in the way of the remote starter but im not sure. They do it on newer cars so maybe not. My guess would be if you have something setup to bypass it then your car would be easier to steal. If you are going to bypass it then you probably just need to cut the wire from the vats to the ecm. Dont take my word for it though im just guessing.
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From: New Mexico
Car: 87 Firebird,
Engine: lq4
Transmission: gto t56 (mn12)
I dont know how the remote starter is setup up to work. Send me some more info on it and I may be able to help you work on the problem. The vats sends a signal to the ecm and to the starter enable relay. If you could bypass one then you would still need to bypass the other. I got nothing better to do this week so send me some more info and we'll figure it out if no one else knows.
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From: conway, s.c.
Car: 1989 Iroc-Z
Engine: 5.7L TPI
Transmission: 700R4
Gummie, you mentioned VATS in one of your posts here. Do you have the pellet in your key? I know that VATS became standard in 1989 and that some of the high end models had it in 1988.
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Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 1,232
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From: Readington, NJ
Car: 88 GTA
Engine: 350 TPI
Transmission: T-56
Axle/Gears: 9 bolt w/ 3.73
GTA's got it in 88. So yes, I do have VATS. Rather than type everything out again, here's my PM to FirehawkSS. It holds everything I know about what I have.
The remote start is your basic remote start system. I have 6 wires to play coming off the system: 12v power input, output to the starter motor, IGN 1, ig2 (acc), ground, and IGN 3.
12v power need to be a constant hot since that's the source the unit will pull it's power from.
output for the starter motor I will come back to later.
IGN 1 is a 12v output. It's the wire that becomes hot when the engine is cranking/running and goes cold when you want to shut everything off.
IG 2/ ACC is fairly self explanatory - just a 12v output.
The ground is also fairly self explanatory.
IGN 3 will not be used. It's designed for vehicles with multiple ignitions.
Since it doesn’t have any provisions to add on anything for VATS/any other type of vehicle security, I think that the easiest thing will be to tap into the output for the starter motor and create some kind of relay system that will disable VATS only when the button on the remote is pressed. Whenever there’s no voltage going to the starter from the remote start unit, VATS will be enabled like it should be.
The only problem I see with that is this: does the car require VATS to be bypassed/whatever to continue running? If so, I could tie into IGN 3 I guess.
I have a decent amount of intuition when it comes to wiring things, but I have never played with relays before. While I’m not worried about doing anything wrong, I have no idea where to start.
If you can think of a better/safer way of doing things, feel free to let me know. If not, any help would be greatly appreciated
12v power need to be a constant hot since that's the source the unit will pull it's power from.
output for the starter motor I will come back to later.
IGN 1 is a 12v output. It's the wire that becomes hot when the engine is cranking/running and goes cold when you want to shut everything off.
IG 2/ ACC is fairly self explanatory - just a 12v output.
The ground is also fairly self explanatory.
IGN 3 will not be used. It's designed for vehicles with multiple ignitions.
Since it doesn’t have any provisions to add on anything for VATS/any other type of vehicle security, I think that the easiest thing will be to tap into the output for the starter motor and create some kind of relay system that will disable VATS only when the button on the remote is pressed. Whenever there’s no voltage going to the starter from the remote start unit, VATS will be enabled like it should be.
The only problem I see with that is this: does the car require VATS to be bypassed/whatever to continue running? If so, I could tie into IGN 3 I guess.
I have a decent amount of intuition when it comes to wiring things, but I have never played with relays before. While I’m not worried about doing anything wrong, I have no idea where to start.
If you can think of a better/safer way of doing things, feel free to let me know. If not, any help would be greatly appreciated
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