Ok, I'm thinking about attempting to add HID to my car. I'm basically looking at this kit: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...sPageName=WDVW to convert the sealed beam to H4 style. Yes, I would use a better quality one with glass though. And then getting an HID kit for H4 bulbs that is "plug and play" like this: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...947116206&rd=1 It says "This is a full plug and play kit. Only two connections are needed, one goes to the bulb and the other to your factory harness. No cutting or splicing of wires are required. If you know how to replace your bulbs, you will know how to install this kit."

So basically, it'd be the stock harness into the the adaptor for H4s, and then the HID kit plugs into that. Now... would this be too hard on the stock 1987 wiring and burn something up? I was wanting input before I drop 300$+ into attempting this, only to have it mess up the car. Any input would be great, thanks.

 

man bro, if you can do this you got to let me know man. this would make the car look alot better..

 

Yeah. I know this post seems like all the other, but it says that HID kit is 35W and the stock bulbs are like 50. How could the wiring not handle it? Or does it have to do with voltage and stuff? Wiring really is not my area. Is it just, wire it up with the relay because you're better safe than sorry?

 

I'd upgrade the wires.

Your stockers are fine though because the HIDs, while brighter, do use quite a bit less energy. Same concept with flurescent (sp?) bulbs. It's your choice, the wires can handle it though. They handle you currant bulbs, right?

 

Yes, I have the silverstar sealed beam highs and lows right now. My friends are saying do the relays... its turning into a big ordeal, which is what I wanted to avoid lol

 

so can those lights work or is there a little of fabing involved?

 

http://www.brightheadlights-hid.com/...ghts-x4656.htm

This is the kit I used. Have to cut factory wiring, but uses relays etc. Also have to trim backside of bucket that light sits in.

 

Why not try to use the Lexus style HID's? I put them in on my Pontiac Sunbird, and they have been working fine for about a year now with no problems. The system is very easy to work with too. Basically, it is a box with a 2 wire input, one + and one -. Coming out of the box is the shielded wiring that goes to the bubl and housing. The hardest part is finding a way for the headlight assembly to accept the bulb/socket. Once that is in though, the connector just slips on, turn it, and it's there. Oh, did I mention that there are no need for relays and upgraded wiring? You basicallytake the wiring from the original headlamp, splice it into the 2 wire input for the box and it covnerts the 12V to 50.000V inside the box. No need for anything else! Let me see if I can get a pic of it for you.....

 

As you can see from the pic above, hookup is very simple, just cut your old connector off and splice it in. Like I said before, the hardest part would be to get the headlamp housing to accept the bulb. Once you do that, your golden.

 

Your stock wiring should be fine, but it wouldn't hurt to rewire.

Go to http://www.danielsternlighting.com and pick up RIK-4. Add your own 10ga wire and you're all set to go. It's similar to the painless wiring kit, but from what I understand it has more. 3 fuses, 3 relays, instead of 1 fuse, and 2 relays. It also is set up to rewire your high beams, which the painless harness is not.

BTW, the HID retrofits for H4 glass is not that great. HID has a different light pattern than H4 and shouldn't be used in H4 glass. You'll cause tons of glare and blind half the people in oncoming traffic. Use a true HID retrofit, like Xenarc, with the housings for HID. The link I provided has more details on it, in the tech section. http://www.danielsternlighting.com/t...s/Hid/HID.html

 

Are you talking about how it'd be in a normal type of housing instead of using a projector lense? I know that it won't really be working how it was intended, but I'm sure anything is better than sealed beams. I'm going to get the caspers electronics HID glare shields, they should help: https://www.casperselectronics.com/M...Category_Code=

 

How much is all of this going to cost? Search around on the web. I purchased my kit from some truck website for $400.00. No fuss no muss and DOT approved.

 

The housing you linked is still for halogen and not for HID. The light pattern for HID is different. You'll get alot of stray light, which causes glare. Do consider the Sylvania Xenarc system, for just a bit more than your piecemeal system, with everything included including wiring. I think it's a better system.

I've been thinking about the Xenarc system, but I may just go H4 so I can return the blinding favor of H4 HID retrofits with a long shot of 460W high beams. Alot of the imports around here have the HID retrofits and it drives me nuts. With HID you have to take great care in making sure your headlights are aimed properly...but with SUVs/trucks/vans having HID these days, and their lights are at eye level unless you are in a semi...screw them all.

 

I'm not really finding the xenarc ones in my price range. I know this isn't really the best way to do it, but I'm trying to keep it simple and fairly cheap. I don't drive my Camaro a ton at night anyway(yes, that does kinda make this entire thing dumb lol). I know exactly what you are talking about, there's a kid with a Del Sol here, and he says he was told his HID kit is 8500K. It's in his stock headlight housings, and being infront of him isn't that fun. His headlights look f'n MEAN though

 

And purple, right? I wouldn't get anything about 6500k. Maybe 7k but that'd only be if it was REALLY cheap. Everything above that just looks too purple and doesn't put out as much light (not a HUGE difference but it's somewhat noticable). If you don't like the aftermarket setups, buy some cheap plastic H4 housings and then buy the HID projectors/ballasts off of some lexus/bmw/merc/linc/etc. Get 3" hole saw and cut out the back of the retrofit housing and slide the projector in.
1.Attach
2.Seal
3.Aim
4.Profit...err Enjoy

 

Ok, like I said, I know that you're supposed to use projector lenses, and I know that beyond 6K or so you are actually losing visible light. I don't have the money to buy all this stuff to do it with projector lenses, I was looking at these: http://www.hidplanet.com/valeo.html I suppose I could buy some cheap 150$ honda civic aftermarket headlights and rip the projector out, but I don't really feel like doing that.

 

You talk like it's a heck of lot more money. Just get the projector/ballasts/bulbs from another car that came with them stock. It wouldn't be a plug and play thing but it'd definately give you a better light pattern than a regular h4 conversion.

I've been seeing the whole setup off of lincolns around here locally for $350-400 or so. Not much more than your $300 eBay link + conversion lenses...

 

Might be easy to find that stuff there, but here it's not easy. And if you do, the price would be a raping without lube.


Oklahoma sucks

 

This
Or
This

+

This

=

FUN!

 

i bought that exact kit off ebay, (the HID) not only were they dimmer than my stock lights the glass cracked on my low beams within 1/2 hour of me installing them.

eventually the plastic behind the bulbs melted and at 3am going in the fog on the freeway the lights turned off and would not come back on.

do not buy that kit.


i personally would go with projectors or even the monte carlo light conversion

 

You bought which one?

 

this one
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/e...ssPageName=WDVW

the one with the hid plastic housing/glass lens with the one wire connecter. it does have painted blue bulbs

and was a complete waste of almost 300$ canadian after shipping

 

Your link doesn't work...

But if you're talking about this then you didn't buy HIDs, just some cheap imitations. Did you really pay 300?

 

yeah but thats the kit he was thinking about buying regardless of what it is.

and i paid for both high and low beam sets, plus shipping from cali to canada.

 

He was saying he'd get the kit to switch to H4s and then get actual HIDs, and not use the blue tinted r*cer bulbs. Those bulbs are obviously going to be dimmer than stockers or real HIDs because they have a blue paint or tint on them that's going to block out tons of the light even if they are higher wattage bulbs

 

Yes your wiring will hold up perfectly fine...

What I wanna know, how cheap can you get the hid systems off of a lexus vehicle??

because I'd rather just put in 100/120w highlows in my car, and aim them slightly lower, so the road will be REALLY bright...

It's a tricky thing in Texas, the automobile laws are written based on WATTAGE, not lumen output... while a 100watt bulb is illegal on a roadway, for some reason a 35watt xenon hid setup that's easily twice as many lumens (and extremely annoying to look at- I hate people with HID's and I dream of smashing in their lights with a machine gun)... its just a loophole in the system... I see the future where they are illegal, because they are TOO BRIGHT!

plus they are severly overpriced... they shouldn't cost very much... you can fill an entire workshop with flourescent lighting for the price of a stageII hid kit for one car... gimme a break.

My next upgrade is gonna be 2 100 watt+ off-road headlights (aimed slightly lower,) and two 100 watt high lows in the fogs, wired to come on always with headlights, and when I hit the fog switch, it turns them on "high".

much much much cheaper in the long run

 

im saying the winring wont hold up, my lights wen out AT 3am in he fog

 

sucks that your lights went out 85berlinetta2.8, even so... hids typically draw 1/3 as much power as standard bulbs... so he's in pretty much zero risk of wiring troubles... so if he is putting in REAL HIDS then he's okay.. if he's putting in fake hid high wattage bulbs that are like 100watts then he's in for some trouble.

 

For the price of all that, plus decent wiring to supply it, relays, switchs, time to install I think you'd be far ahead of the game if you just broke down and bought the HIDs...

The wiring doesn't like 100w bulbs. It would easily handle the 35w HIDs. Think the fog may have had something to do with the lights going out? Bad connection or something?

 

no, the bulbs heated up so much that it started to melt the housing. i think that had somthing to do with the lights going out

 

well xenon hid bulbs put out much less heat as well... they are straight-up more efficient in every manner...

and you can get the off road bulbs, relays and wiring for well under $100... tad bit less than $1,000-$1,500 IMO

 

Where are you getting $1k from?

 

everywhere I've seen that you can find a stage2 kit is over a grand... maybe you've got some cheaper resources...

 

I don't like the name "stage X" because everyones definition of a "Stage" could be different. What are you calling a stage two?

 

bah I dunno now... I was doing a whole bunch of reading last night on hid lighting, and searching around on ebay...

its strange to think that someone can offer a kit that has
2 ballasts
2 6000k bulbs
and all wiring
for $230

is there any difference between a sylvannia or philips brand ballast and these crappy "KOREAN/GERMAN" ones?

pretty much any website I went to had the philips 4200k bulbs (the brightest K,) on sale for around $120 a PIECE!

two bulbs alone is the price of the damn kit on ebay... hrm

do you happen to know what the difference is between any "Stages" of any brand of ballast / bulb? I believe I read the stage differences when looking at buying a car, they had a more expensive option that cost about $1,500 to give "stage II hid lighting"...

I bet its just like 6,000k bulbs instead of 4,200k...

Plus I wonder if used ballasts would be good enough... some guy is selling a pair of ballasts for h4 conversions for 50 bucks... you could then buy the bulbs and you're ready to go... unless the ballasts wear out before the bulbs, then you may have just wasted your money.

 

I'm an authorized dealer for PILOT HID and can tell you easily that there is a difference between ballast.

inside the ballast has basically an "igniter" that shoots voltage to the bulb which then "ignites" the bulb to a certain kelvin Temperature giving it color the higher Kelvin rating (ex: 4300k, 6000k, 8000k,10,000k up to 14,000k)
Higher the Kelvin = more color

Honestly majority of the ballast you'll see now a days have the same internal clockwork and can be offered at a lower cost being mass produced.

Now heres the real reason why certain kits are certain prices.

There are 3 types of REAL HID KITs:

1) Low beam only (pair of single beam HIDs)

2) Hi/Low System (Its 2 bulbs on 1 unit meaning on 1 bulb you'll have HID low beams and Halogen high beams. Therefor when switching from low to high it will turn off the HID low and switch to Halogen high)

3) Bi-Xenon System (The most expensive kit, This is what you'll see on BMWs. Basically its a 1 bulb design with a motor inside making it Low beam HID & High beam HID all in 1 bulb. When switching from low beam to high the motor will tilt upwards to give you HID high beams.)

When buying from EBAY make sure you know what system your buying.

I sell my cheapest kits for $150 on Ebay but are of the most standard Kit.

Meaning Single Beam HID in any color you want with ballast and all the hardware. And are true plug and play systems.

Just because its on EBAY doesn't mean its something cheap..you just have to make sure you know what your buying. If your paying $150 expect to just get a low beam system meaning you WILL NOT have HIGH BEAMS.

I've been through all types of ballast and majority of the internals are all the same. Its the igniter that will bare the difference between ballast.

If you guys have any questions feel free to PM me or reply here and i'll try and answer questions to the best of my knowledge.

 

There are more differences between kits than that.

First off, a bi-xenon kit doesn't have anything to do with ballats. It's the projector lense that makes it a bi-xenon unit. The projector lense is what has the motorized shade that move.

And you don't mention projector vs free form housings. The latter of which is just a bad idea no matter how you cut it.

The igniter doesn't control the kelvin of a capsule (aka bulb). The capsule does. And by "more color" you mean darker.



The higher kelvin capsule you get, generally the more purple and darker the bulb is.

Unless you're ultra generalizing, I wouldn't buy from you. Seem to just know what the brochures advertise.

 

The chart you posted seems a bit off on it's descriptions... the most light output is around 4300K, which is why all the OEMs use it. "Industrial Smog?" Sounds like they are promoting the high-kelvin bulbs...

 

first off I never said the ballast controlled the bi-xenon kit. I said there was a built in motor thats with the bulb (aka Capsule) that tilts upward/downward.

Also I'm answering questions and not selling HID's here. Read who i quoted earlier about Ebay kits vs Brand name or "Korean/German Kits"

I only used my reference of Ebay as information about what your getting from Ebay vs other kits meaning read the fine print.

And yes your correct, the ballast does not have anything to do with the color of the bulb. Though i never meant to say it did and I think you misread what i was getting at, what you said is still correct.

My response was just meant to be helpful. But I'll take your comment with a grain of salt so to speak.

Again make note that I am not selling HID's on this forum. I'm just trying to help but I can see that goes unappreciated.

The chart is a bit off though its still generally accurate. 4300k is a more whitish color output with hints of yellow. That charts from a home theatre source. Optoma is a home theatre company but basically deals with the same concept in projectors.

 

F1spec, could you stop bringing up these old threads just so you could publicize that you're an "authorized dealer". k thx

 

you know what, I didn't even realize this thread was that old until you mentioned it. I ain't even trying to publicize that i'm a dealer. Take your smart *** remarks and keep that **** to yourself. I'll tell you if i'm wrong which in this case I am since i didn't check the OP date. But don't be an *** when i'm only trying to help. "K thx"

 

My Bi-Xenon kit has a shade over the bulb itself that moves when you select hi or low beams, not a motorized shade in the projector housing, But I guess manufacturers could go that route, I haven't seen it myself yet.

I use "E" code glass housings for my HIDs, much better than the "free form" glass or plastics housings. I just think projectors don't look right on 3rd gen Camaros.

And yes the stock wiring will be fine. HIDs use less power then Halogens.

 

I haven't looked at HID stuff in awhile but I had never seen a non projector bi-xenon housing up until now. What kid do you have? Do you have pictures? Is it an H4 based replacement? I had planned to get a free form housing and retro a bi-xenon projector inside it like a lot of people have done with their regular headlight housings on other vehicles.

I think you're taking my comments the wrong way. I could care less if you're trying to sell on here or not. If so, more power to you. That's awesome. HIDs are a cool idea to me and I've wanted to do a retro for quite awhile. I meant that if you told me that info, then I went out and did my own research I'd never come back to you because your explanations were fuzzy, glossed over and just seemed like you watched a 10 minutes infomercial on HIDs.

The chart is definitely bad but I was just trying to illustrate the idea behind kelvin and light output, that higher is not always better.

 

Ah ha, geeze. I got pwned! Grow up man, good way to represent your business by acting like a 15 year old.

 

Wow, everyone needs to just stop the bickering... anyhooo...

I have seen ebay kits for around $70 SHIPPED now... I am very tempted to get a few kits for my WS6.

I am thinking I'll get the following bulbs:

Fog: 880 3500K
Low: H4 4300K
High: H4 4300K

Unless someone can recommend some different temperatures... I figure since 4300K is the best overall temp, for most conditions, it should be fine.... unless the highs should be a slightly higher temp?

I like the fogs to be a bit more yellow, it tends to help in the rain, and well... fog... I usually have gold-dichroic bulbs, but right now I just have the stockers...

Also, I love my H4 conversions... I found a website selling the kit for around $50, and it came with two 70-watt "Super Yellow-Ion" bulbs... I didn't care about the bulbs, but the kit WITH the bulbs was cheaper than a lot of the others, and it fit great. The light pattern is so much better than the sealed beams. Also, my wiring has held up just fine with the 70-watt bulbs... I sure wouldn't go any higher though, because you never know the tolerances...

For as cheap as the ebay kits are now, it seems worth it to give them a shot... for $70 shipped, if it breaks, you could just get another! so damn cheap...