I swapped a TPI 350 into my car with a serp belt setup and got a new CS alternator. I got an alternator plug adapter from autozone. I ran the big red wire from the plug to the back terminal on the alternator. From that terminal goes to the battery. Then I toned out the "L" wire in my plug and ran that to a keyed on 12v wire. That did not charge my battery any, so I added a 100ohm 1v resistor in that line. That dropped my voltage to a little below 10v DC. That also didn't change my charging. My 7730 computer and my multimeter both show my battery voltage at 12v. I though I want to see 14v? I'm afraid to drive on the street like this, so my testing is all at idle in the garage. I've reved it up without any voltage changes that I could notice.

Anyone have any guidance they can share with me please. This is the last thing to do on my swap.

Thanks!
-darren

 

Look at the alt plug with the female removed. There is one wide male pin, thats the field supply and you can tie that to the back lug if you want however you should fuse it. The third pin gets keyed 12 thru a resistance wire or fixed resistor. Anywhere from 10 ohms to 33 ohms is enough, some models use the charge bulb as the resistance. So, basically wide pin 12 volts, empty pin, 12 volts key on and empty pin. If you need more info go to www.alternatorparts.com and look at the free online manual for the 130. It offers diagrams for different hookups.

 

Thanks Danno!

That is exactly how I believe I have it set up. The alternator plug shows the "L" pin and my female plug's "L" matches up to that. I even toned out the L pin on my female plug to the wire end to make sure they were the same.

Could I have too much resistance? This thing just seems to be running off battery. While the engine is running, I never see more than 11.9 Vdc anywhere. Could I have the "L" wire hooked up to the wrong area? I though the L wire only needs to see 12v keyed on power with a little resistance in it?

Can I test this alternator some how? It's supposed to be brand new, but I bought it from a guy that sold me the serpentine setup, so I can't return it for another.

Thanks!
-darren

 

Not to Hijack your thread or anything but i thought this pertained to it.

In the pic below the on the alternator there is stock replacement fot 91' GTA LB9. I have had a problem for a long time running now and it kinda has to do with your topic.


Its a long story so i will just cut to the chase.


On the stock connector and stock replacement alternator for a LB9 730'ecm where does the BLACK wire on the connector suppose to go?

Its ohming out in the mega ohms like 3.2 or something. If i leave it hooked up to my alternator it wont charge.

So i have it ran to my fuse panel. BUT...i have it switched b/c if i leave it directly hooked up to a 12v source my battery will go dead over night.

Thanks for any help.

 

I have a much bigger pic if anyone is interested.

 

First, autozone and most parts stores will test the gen for free. Bri, that tan or black wire is the sense or turn on wire and it DOES have to be key controlled. It generally ties into the fuse panel or harness and is on the fused line marked "fan/chg" or something similiar. If you leave it to constant 12 volts if you shut the car off the gen will buzz and drain the battery. Usually if left on long enough it will destroy the gen. Dperk, too much resistance should not prevent it from turning on, the newer regulator IC's coming out can turn on with as much as 1k ohm, but if it's an older unit I would stay around 33 ohms or so. It's a pretty simple hookup, I would have it tested.

 

Thanks Danno. Do you know where the red wire on the connector goes.

Sorry Dperk.

 

On my 89 it was a constant 12 volts, key on or off. They use the tan wire to turn the gen on and off. It went into the harness probably thru a fuse link. I changed my gen to a 130D and use only 1 wire on the plug now.

 

Thanks for the info Danno. Thanks for letting me use your thread Dperk.