So I smell burning yesterday then my car overheats. The fan doesn't turn on for diagnostics, and last time I checked a few weeks ago it did so I figure thats a good place to start checking. This is the weird part. The relay works. The fan works (tested direct to battery). However the Brown wire that is switched to the fan when the relay is activated is 12V but it can't power the fan. It can't supply enough amps to move the fan. I basically need to know where the wire runs to so I can fix this. I don't understand how it can be 12V and not supply enough amps since it draws what it needs from the battery. No fuses are blown in the fuse panel either, and I don't see any burnt wires.

 

I presume the fan is wired to a temperature sender of some sort. If this sender sin't working correctly, then it may not be allowing the fan to operate.

(My car has a smaller, bodged in electric fan which runs all the time. I bought it like that, sorry)

Mark.

 

That's the thing, the relay is connected to a sender, but the actually B+ line is supposed to be straight from the battery. I'm trying to find out why its not.

 

Hello Firebirdjosh,
If you have a VIN "F" firebird, there is a orange wire that goes to pin "E" of the coolant fan relay from a fusible link. That same fusible link is also in-line with the battery & alternator with a wire branching off to the 20 AMP fuse for the ECM, fuel pump relay and a couple of other items. The only brown wire for it goes from the 20 AMP C/H-FAN fuse to connector C221 where it becaomes a tan/white wire going to pin "C" of the coolant fan relay.

 

Thanks SOOO much, I found the blown fusible link. SO I'll patch that up and I'll report back if anything else happens.

 

firebirdjosh...where did you find the fusible link? Iam going through the same thing. I replaced my relays/fan switch,and jumped the fans to work.But when I start the car even after 220 the fans won't come on. Iv'e noticed at idle sometimes there is a burning smell...only after the car is well warmed up. Sounds like we have the same problem...I was looking today to see where that orange wire runs too...I knew it had to have a fusible link..any help you can give I appreciate.

 

Hello Don,
If you have the VIN "F" or "8" model, your fusible link is in the same location as firebirdjosh. It will be the small wire coming off the positive battery cable. It sends power to both the primary & auxiliary coolant fans. Let me know if you need a picture of the exact location.

 

Just follow the wires from your battery terminal. Its within a foot from it. Mine is totally burnt and just toast all the way around it. I'm going to get some repalcement from Autozone tomorrow.

 

Yes I have the f code engine..I have a Gray wire coming off the hot side that slits into 3 wires that have connectors/fusible links.
The one wire looks like the orange wire that comes from the relay.
I have not delt much with fusible links,what is this link rated at?
Thanks Trickster and Firebirdjosh!!

 

I replaced my link with a fuse holder since I have a few laying around. I popped a 30A fuse after about 3 seconds. I'm also curious what the link is rated at to see if I'm popping fuses becuase the fan draws more or becuase there is a short.

 

I'm GUESSING that its a 40A link. My chilton manual says there are 4 fusible links, and one that I believe to be this one is 20 gauge. The wire looks about 20 gauge to me. And I searched around and it seems a 20 gauge link is equal to a 40A fuse. I figure since thats the smallest fusible link in the car there is no way I can damage anything since if I guessed the wrong one its still a smaller value. Also, my friend's radiator fan has a 40A fuse. So I'm off to get some fuses and see what happens.

 

Pop, there goes a 40A fuse. Im sticking a high amp meter in there and testing how much it draws then testing how much just the fan draws.

 

Ok, the fan is drawing over 60A (thats the max my meter goes). My 14 gauge wire going direct to the fan is getting very hot at the end, does that mean the fan is just drawing too much power and I need a new one?

 

Update again: fan was rubbing since it was the wrong size from previous owner, so everytime it hit the fan drew an extra few amps (hence the blown fuses). Now thats fixed and the fan keeps turning on and dying with the clicking noise from a sensor while in diagnostic mode. What a pain...

 

I checked the manual for my 84, and for a single fan it should be a 16 gauge fusible link. I would assume it would be the same for yours if it is a single fan. I believe most electric fans draw between 20-30A. If yours is drawing 60A, sounds like the fan motor is toast. Is there play in the shaft for the motor? Try wiggling the blade, or pull it off to check. I finally replaced the original one in my car. No burnt links, but it had excessive shaft play and made it almost 180K miles. Night and day difference in shaft play with the new motor (i.e. none).

 

Well I put a new motor in, the old one smells disgusting so thats the burning, then put a 25A fuse in line and the new motor hasn't popped it yet. I have a 30A which I planned on using but if 25A is doing that job I'll keep it in there. Thanks, I didn't really think of replacing the fan motor although it seems so obvious.

 

I would get rid of your fuse holder setup, and install the proper fusible link back in. If it runs and doesn't blow your 25A fuse, I would say the problem is fixed.

 

Glad its working out for you...I have connectors that come apart I guess they are fusible links in there? I think I'll put in a fuse holder to replace them...Where's a good place to get them?

 

A fusible link is a piece of wire that is designed to self destruct if too much current goes through it. It does not come apart (unless it burns up). It is wired inline in a circuit, and can be considered as a "one time only" fuse. You can get them at any auto parts store, you just need to know what gauge.

 

Why?

 

I tend to put things back the way they were. It was designed that way for a reason, and maybe someone else can explain the why's, but for $3-4 for a piece of fusible link, 5 minutes with a soldering gun, and a little shrink wrap you can have it back the way it was. I do like the idea of using the fuse holder temporarily until you figured out your problem (probably real easy to measure the amperage going through it).

 

I tend to like to upgrade technology. You said it yourself, a fusible link is a one time fuse. So if it pops again I have to desolder that and solder it again. I'd rather install a high quality fuse and replace those as needed (not that it happens often). GM used a fusible link in this case to save money I'd bet. Its not like 30A/40A fuses weren't available. Also, I can put exactly the right size fuse since there are more available (smaller increments between ratings) rather than fusible links which are usually higher powered.

 

Why go to the trouble of soldering a fusible link in when you can just use a solderless weatherproof splice.

 

That'll be the day when you see non-soldered splices under my hood.

 

I meant on mine there is actuall connectors that have tabs and come apart...they don't look like the fusible links at the starter...I figured there was a fuse inside I could just pop out but it was a link inside..really weird.

I figured on putting in a fuse holder so if there's other problems and i pop a fuse it takes seconds to replace...i don't have a lot of free time to spend under the hood of my car