I recently Purchased a Mint Low Mile-Mint (10.900mi) TTA , so this is really my first experience with the F bodys, I've had Turbo Buicks for years, several of them since '87, and know them pretty well, so ......on Sunday I was heading to a car Show nearby and hit a Dip/Bump and lost power COMPLETELY, had it towed home and saw that a Fuseable Link in the Starter area (Specifically one of the five that come down from the main engine wiring harness with Ring Terminals to the Starter Soleoid) had blown...now I haven't had ANY electrical problems with the car, and it is my understanding that for a Fuseable Link to go there has to be a Rather BIG Power surge???
Is that correct?? Could hitting a Dip/Bump have somehow knocked something lose???..??

Well I couldn't find any visible broken wires so I just replaced the one that blew..started the car back up, drove about 2 miles or so and....DEAD AGAIN well I AAA'ed it home again?? I guess I have no choice but to begin SERIOUS DisAssembly of this Masterpiece to find a Broken wire Somewhere
GREAT !!
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Guys...come on....NOTHING...no ideas?????????

 

TTT

 

TTT

 

GEE Thanks Guys for all the replies..that could be it, all follow all the suggestions.....

 

Well since you're being a jackass I won't help.

PS this was the first time I saw the thread. Being sarcastic doesn't make us want to help.

 

Josh,

Wasn't being a 'Jackass', just expected a Reply before 48 hours - I guess I was being unrealistic.

Anyhow, after blowing the Link Several times, and NOW it's to the point that as soon as I try to ReAttach the + Cable the battery starts SPARKING like mad, I've begun DisAssembling the Harness to COMPLETLY follow the Path of the Red Wire to find where the short is, which of course means just about removing half the components on the top of the motor to free up the ENTIRE harness!! I also have the $157.00 GM TTA Service manual from Helm on the way to follow the Wiring diagrams...with ANY luck at all I'll have this Wrapped up in a YEAR or so.....Thanks and wish me luck!!!

Also FWIW, I've been around these Buicks for MANY years, and have had 5, this being number 6 since '87, so I'm NO AMATUER!!!

Thanks for ANY and all replies!!

 

OK, so the Red 10mm underhood Fuselink wire that goes from the Starter solenoid to pin "G4" of connector "C100" (firewall connector) is PERFECT, now I go to Under the driverside dash....

.... it then splits with one wire going to the "tail" fuse which also connects to the "STOP/HAZ" & "CTSY" fuse inside the fuse panel. Also.. Inside the car, it has a splice in it with three wires coming off it. The first wire goes to the "PWR ACC CIRCUIT BREAKER" on the fuse panel. The second two wires go to pins "B2" & "B3" of the ignition switch. So I guess that tells me there must be a Short somewhere in the Ignition switch thts's blowing the Fusible link????? Ideas...

 

TTT Thank you!!!

 

No, you weren't being a "jackass". Josh may be worried about the hurricanes, terrorists, or just otherwise having a tough day at the end of a tough week. Like most members, he's not normally like that. No biggie. But we all have our moments.

Sorry that you haven't had a lot of response yet. Sometimes, it just takes a while to get the right eyes on it. Your title/description may have also deflected soem people, since they may think it is a TTA specific kind of problem. Regarding your problem, there isn't a lot of distinction between the fast Buick/F-Bodies and other F-Bodies from an electrical perspective. A high load is a high load.

Yes, it takes a fairly substantial and sustained high load to toast a fuse link - Probably around 60A+ for 30 seconds or more. It may help to determine which circuit is being fed by the blowing link to help isolate the diagnosis.

I wouldn't just start indesciminately digging into the wiring to try to find it. A schematic and your ohmmeter could be your best friends in this project.

Do you remember the wire color attached to the blowing link? That might help a bunch.

BTW - If you get really frustrated with it, send it to me. I'll find the problem, repair it, and perform a thorough driving test of the vehicle to be certain it never gives you problems again. Shouldn't take more than a few months or so....

Seriously, if you can isolate the circuit, we/someone here can probably help you track it down.

 

I'm an electronics technician for a living.Check on both sides of the blown fuse link and see which side has 12 volts.That will tell you if that wire is feeding 12volts to the solenoid or feeding it upwards from the solenoid area(they could pick up the 12 there to feed it somewhere else).I have a feeling it might be the solenoid itself,could be shorting out internally.A wire rubbing inside against the case or something.Other than that,like we do when you have a short,start disconnecting stuff.I would disconnect the starter and solenoid and also the wiring harness connector where it goes into the firewall.Then wire a fuse in and give it a try.If it works then plug the firewall connector back in and try it again.If it still keeps working without blowing the fuse that would seem to point to the starter assy.This is just a basic place to start but I don't really have the experience with TTA's,although I really wish I did.I think it would either be the solenoid itself or a wiring harness getting pinched against a metal part somewhere,or burned or scraped or something that you could spot if you check carefully enough.The dip you hit just gave it a jiggle to finally short completely out.Good luck...

 

Tag,

THANKS a bunch, There are 4 Fuselinks connected to the starter, and only ONE of them keeps blowing, the other three are perfect - so that tells me It can't be the Solenoid, and just to be sure I Replaced the starter - and it still blows.
Now the wire thats blowing is the Red 10mm wire that goes into the C100 connector over on the driver side of the car, I've removed the loom from the ENTIRE wire, both Underhood and 'Now' under the driver side dash where it continues on the other side of that connector ( here there is a Factory 3 way splice) to go onto the Fuse box, and the other 2 wires go into the Ignition Switch.
Now after VERY Carefully Inspecting this wire, and it's corresponding 3 way path under the dash it is PERFECT, no cuts, no chafing, NOTHING!! And all the Connectors look very good..so the Process of elimination comes into play here..the FuseBox connection is perfect..so that leaves ONLY the Ignition Switch....I'm going to order a NEW GM Swich on Monday...and begin to ReAssemble the car.....
so I guess I'll soon know....
What could cause an Ignition switch to go....????

 

I would test the ignition switch before replacing it.

You may also want to remove the two circuit breakers marked "WDO" and "PWR ACC". These breakers are a little slow to operate and serve the power windows, seats, defogger, hatch, and some other body loads.

 

>>>Thanks but HOW do you "test" an Ignition Switch??<<<

Since none of these were touched when my Fusible link blew - as well as the fact that they are on a COMPLETELY different circuit (The Link thats blowing is the Main power wire that goes to the Ignition switch & fuse Block only) how do you think they may be involved?? Thier cheap so I'll replace them, but........

 

Don't replace the circuit breakers, just remove them for diagnostic purposes.

My diagrams indicate the fuse link you describe feed power to the fuse panel bus that also powers the WDO and PWR ACC circuits, unless I misunderstand the link you are describing. The loads on thesse circuits may not have been operated when the link blew, but the devices are still energized. The hatch pull-down is always enrgized, for example. If there is a wiring problem between the breakers and these devices, even though they are not bein used, they may cause a short.

Your ignition switch can be tested with an ohmmeter. If you read resistance across an open pair of contacts, there is a problem. If you can read resistance between contacts and circuits that are supposed to be isolated, there is a problem.

Fortunately, the ignition switch is not that difficult to access, just a little time consuming.

 

Wouldn't they blow before a Fuse Link??

Thanks, yes the ignition switch being on top of the steering wheel IS difficult!
I dropped the steering wheel down about 5 - 6 inches and theres a 'Barely' enough room to access the 2 - 5/16 bolts, but I'll get a better handle on it when I see the New switch, the service manual is not a lot of help here!

 

Repeated overloads from a breaker that trips, cools, and closes, coupled with normal loads from starting and running the engine and accessories could cook a fuse link. Until you find the problem, don't discount anything.

The switch can be accessed by removing the lower IP trim, then reaching above the outer column jacket and removing the screws that hold the switch in position. It helps to be a bit of a contortionist.



Use a bit of masking tape around the column to help hold the linkage rods in place when the switch is removed.

What diagrams do you have? I'm sure someone can post up something that can help.

 

Vader,

Thanks a Bunch, I HAVE the GM Factory Service manual, that's where I got all the electrical schematics, however it's rather difficult to see in the Steering whell diagram exactly how to R & R the switch, don't I also have to Lower the Column 6 to 8 inches to get my small ratchet up there for the 2 5/16" retaining bolts????

Thanks!

 

Do like Vader said , or just unbolt the column and drop it down some or all the way(watch for wires as u go though)

Did u ever invest in a meter and actually test the circuits?

later
Jeremy

PS same name at turbobuick.com

 

Thanks Again guys,

I'm out of town until Saturday, and then I'll have a Continuity tester as well as a new Ignition switch (Cheap at $15.00 GM Shop pricing) and an Ohm meter...so I can at least TEST everything while it's still apart...

Thanks

 

did you ever figure out what was wrong with the circuit

 

You're not going to get an answer. The OP hasn't posted in 10 years.

This is one of the unfortunate things about forums. Interesting or relevant threads with no resolution.