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engine swap bugs

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Old Aug 19, 2005 | 02:44 AM
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From: UofA(Tucson), AZ
Car: 92 Precision Red Firebird
Engine: v6->357 vortec xe262h rpm intake
Transmission: t5-> t56
Axle/Gears: 10bolt 3.42s
engine swap bugs

ok i know i need a larger alternator. the 63 is just not cutting it with my sound system and its old. now my question is when the engine is off the batt will read 12.34.... 10min later its at 12.28(alternator reading is .01 lower than batt with engine off) i dont know why. how can i track down whats doing this??? i need to put back the ground strap from the back of the cylinderhead to the firewall, could this do it? i did have to cut some sensors off and stuff. i just taped up the wires and tucked them away. was this right? im really baffled i have a voltmeter so just give me some directions and i can find out why my battery is draining. THANKS!!!
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Old Aug 19, 2005 | 10:51 AM
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From: UofA(Tucson), AZ
Car: 92 Precision Red Firebird
Engine: v6->357 vortec xe262h rpm intake
Transmission: t5-> t56
Axle/Gears: 10bolt 3.42s
ok i woke up checked it and now it reads 12.05 at the battery please i need help.
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Old Aug 21, 2005 | 01:12 PM
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From: UofA(Tucson), AZ
Car: 92 Precision Red Firebird
Engine: v6->357 vortec xe262h rpm intake
Transmission: t5-> t56
Axle/Gears: 10bolt 3.42s
come on.
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Old Aug 24, 2005 | 12:30 AM
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From: UofA(Tucson), AZ
Car: 92 Precision Red Firebird
Engine: v6->357 vortec xe262h rpm intake
Transmission: t5-> t56
Axle/Gears: 10bolt 3.42s
ok my battery went completely dead after a few days of no use....something is draining it and i dont know what to do. PLEASE SOMEONE who knows what to do help me. i converted to a carbed 350 and i cut sensors and some wires at the ecu and stuff....is there some wat to find out whats draining the batt!!!!?!?!?!?!? PLEASE HELP!!
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Old Aug 25, 2005 | 12:37 AM
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From: Worcester, MA
Car: 86 T/A
Engine: HSR 355
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 2.77 posi
Is it the battery itself that just can't hold a charge? Also the alt. voltage is lower than the battery due to a voltage drop from the wire running to the alt. Hook up your ammeter and start pulling fuses and see if it drops the draw. You should have less than 50mA with the car off and the doors closed.
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Old Aug 25, 2005 | 01:09 AM
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From: UofA(Tucson), AZ
Car: 92 Precision Red Firebird
Engine: v6->357 vortec xe262h rpm intake
Transmission: t5-> t56
Axle/Gears: 10bolt 3.42s
k im gonna try and do that tomorrow. i cut some wires off the ecm when i swapped engines. what should i have done with the chopped wire? could i just tape it up?
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Old Aug 25, 2005 | 08:09 AM
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From: Worcester, MA
Car: 86 T/A
Engine: HSR 355
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 2.77 posi
Yeah just tape it off. The #1 rule is never cut a harness... too late. You just pissed off every future owner of that car .
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Old Aug 25, 2005 | 11:38 AM
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From: UofA(Tucson), AZ
Car: 92 Precision Red Firebird
Engine: v6->357 vortec xe262h rpm intake
Transmission: t5-> t56
Axle/Gears: 10bolt 3.42s
eh...im never gonna sell it. too much time and money now.
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Old Aug 26, 2005 | 11:51 PM
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From: Ft. Worth
I said that about my Harley-Davidson...oops it is for sale. Never thought it would happen but things change now and then. Of course having a tank slapper toss me of my crotch rocket at 70 had something to do with the decision.
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Old Aug 28, 2005 | 05:21 PM
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From: UofA(Tucson), AZ
Car: 92 Precision Red Firebird
Engine: v6->357 vortec xe262h rpm intake
Transmission: t5-> t56
Axle/Gears: 10bolt 3.42s
ok, so i bought a new battery cause my old one was bad. so i got an optima yellowtop, now after driving the car for a while it will read....12.8 or something and then about a day + later it'll read 12.15 or so. So i still have something draining my battery. when i try to do the parasitic loss or w/e test it just sparks i get a 3sec reading of like 8. i know thats the other stuff getting powered up. and then it doesnt read anything. any advice anyone?
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Old Aug 28, 2005 | 05:30 PM
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From: Worcester, MA
Car: 86 T/A
Engine: HSR 355
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 2.77 posi
Is your meter set properly? 8A is everything powering up, but after that you should see a draw of less than .050 A, so that can easily be overlooked.
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Old Aug 31, 2005 | 06:58 PM
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From: UofA(Tucson), AZ
Car: 92 Precision Red Firebird
Engine: v6->357 vortec xe262h rpm intake
Transmission: t5-> t56
Axle/Gears: 10bolt 3.42s
ok i got it figured out. it was pulling 1.12a!!!! and i found out it was the electronic choke on my carb! so i unplugged it and it dropped to .02-.03a and stayed right there! i have to rewire the electronic choke somehow, right now its just unplugged so its temp fix. so yea. thats good news. and im getting a 100amp alternator in a few days!
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Old Aug 31, 2005 | 09:21 PM
  #13  
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From: Los Angeles, CA
Car: 1985 Chevrolet Camaro IROC-Z28
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: 700R4
It sounds to me like you had your carburetor choke wired to a constantly hot source.

You want it to be powered only when your car is running.

I don't know if you were originally carbed or not, but there is two things you can do to fix this;

1) Find your original choke wire, and connect to this.

2) Re-wire your choke's positive (+) wire to a wire that is only hot at key on. If you still have a lot of the original wiring, this should be fairly easy with a test light. With the key on the run position, ground your light, and touch a lot of wires. When you find one that lights your tester, turn the key off and try again, if it's off now - try this wire.

I'm sure someone will comment further, and a bit more precisely than this, but I know how you feel, my car is an electrical nightmare!

Hope this at least helps for the time being!
Good luck!

-Chris
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