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ignition cylinder lock removal

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Old Nov 26, 2005 | 05:50 PM
  #1  
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From: EC, WI
Car: 1988 IROC
Engine: 350 TPI
Transmission: 700 R4
Axle/Gears: 2.77
ignition cylinder lock removal

I have the steering wheel and column apart. Where do the two wires ( the vats system?) unplug from the ignition cylinder? Should I have it fixed or buy a new one. Will the vats reading need to be the same if I buy a new cyinder and key set?
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Old Nov 26, 2005 | 05:53 PM
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From: Gambrills, Md
Car: clapped out 84Z
Engine: 355 efi roller
Transmission: tremec TKO
The wires run through the column to it's base, they unplug down there. There is no way to fix the wires. If purchasing a new cylinder, take a good ignition key with you to the dealer, as a new key is required when changing the cylinder. They will read the VATS code off it and cut a new key to match the new cylinder. It's that or bypass the VATS.
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Old Nov 26, 2005 | 05:56 PM
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From: EC, WI
Car: 1988 IROC
Engine: 350 TPI
Transmission: 700 R4
Axle/Gears: 2.77
Should I pull a string through with the wire to run the new one back through?
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Old Nov 26, 2005 | 06:04 PM
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From: Gambrills, Md
Car: clapped out 84Z
Engine: 355 efi roller
Transmission: tremec TKO
Guys at work use that, coat hanger, whatever. The wires are very thin and fragile, and easy to break. When I've done them, I drop the column down so it's easier to feed the wires through the loom with all the other garbage that is in there.
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Old Nov 26, 2005 | 08:14 PM
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From: conway, s.c.
Car: 1989 Iroc-Z
Engine: 5.7L TPI
Transmission: 700R4
Yes those wires are fragile but they can be soldered or spliced together if there is enough wire available. Several members of this board have done this and so have I. As Lo-tec has mentioned, lowering the steering column and loosening those bolts that hold that shroud to the steering column makes it easier to guide the wire through.
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Old Nov 26, 2005 | 08:35 PM
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As for the other part of the question, the VATS key needs to match the VATS module (or ECM) in the vehicle. There is nothing in the ignition lock cylinder that needs to "match" other than the key cut.
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Old Nov 26, 2005 | 08:39 PM
  #7  
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From: EC, WI
Car: 1988 IROC
Engine: 350 TPI
Transmission: 700 R4
Axle/Gears: 2.77
So I can buy the new cylinder and splice the new wires to the existing? I think there will be plenty of wire to do that and I won't have to go any further into the column...
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Old Nov 26, 2005 | 08:47 PM
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From: Gambrills, Md
Car: clapped out 84Z
Engine: 355 efi roller
Transmission: tremec TKO
No, remove the old wires after disconnecting them at the base of the column. Run the new wires through the crap in the column, and plug them into the connector. There's no need to rig this job. Remove the 4 extra bolts and drop the column. It's about $90 for a cylinder and a key. If you f it up, it's gonna cost you another $90. Do it right the first time.
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Old Dec 2, 2005 | 05:12 PM
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From: EC, WI
Car: 1988 IROC
Engine: 350 TPI
Transmission: 700 R4
Axle/Gears: 2.77
I got new cylinder and key in, was very easy. Where does this little piece go and how does it fit?
Attached Thumbnails ignition cylinder lock removal-switch.jpg  
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Old Dec 2, 2005 | 05:51 PM
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From: conway, s.c.
Car: 1989 Iroc-Z
Engine: 5.7L TPI
Transmission: 700R4
Well, you see that little slot there to the left and slightly above the lock cylinder retaining screw? That is where it goes, that is the key warning buzzer switch.
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Old Dec 2, 2005 | 06:14 PM
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From: 62656
Car: 1991 S10 pickup 2700lbs
Engine: 4.3L Z TBI
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.08 7.625"
Originally posted by Trickster
Well, you see that little slot there to the left and slightly above the lock cylinder retaining screw? That is where it goes, that is the key warning buzzer switch.
i never reinstall those

but yeah they just pop into the hole slot, cant miss it in there

the plastic part of it is what slides in
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