Hello everyone, here's a list of what I've done/didn't do. The car is an 89 iroc z camaro, it had a 305 with a 350 swapped into it, I bought it like that.

About two months ago I stopped for gas, came back, tried starting the car and it wouldn't fire. Typical fuel pump, wouldn't run, etc. I replaced the fuel pump, it ran for a little bit, then gave out. I started doing some tracing, and something wasn't reading right in the ECM, replaced that. Got the ECM working correctly. Now, the injectors will not get any fuel. I tried an ignition switch out of curiosity. I have spark, just no fuel. The fuel pump runs, everything is doing what it should. I'm thinking a vats problem... when I bought the car he had it hooked up to a push start because he said the key was messed up. The key turns on, but will not crank the car. The car was working fine with the push start before all of this. I hooked up a noid light to one of the injector harnesses and it does not blink, but I don't know what this mean. The push start is basically just jumping the starter, it's not wired into the column. Could it be a simple vats key/cylinder problem? Or is it something more like an ignition module. I was under the understanding that if you had spark, the module was ok. As I said, the car was running fine when I bought it, just tripped out on me now.

 

bypass the starter relay in drivers kick panel behind some tar stuff. put the 2 yellow wires together i believe or just ground the relay out

 

Update:

I checked the resistance of the key, and then of the two yellow wires coming from under the dash. I get a reading of 0. If I were to solder in a resistor, I assume if there's a broken wire or something in the column, then the resistor would still not work. I'd have to repair the break, correct? Or will the resistor still fool the computer?

 

No just because the module can make spark does not mean it is good. The module can stop sending reference pulse to the computer and still spark. Is your car TBI or TPI? Mike

 

Car is TPI. I soldered in a potentiometer today with the correct resistance, car now fires up fine, problem is I can't get it to stay running on it's own power. It'll run but I have to stay on the throttle. It won't idle.

I'm basically trying to pick up the pieces of where this so-called "mechanic" left off. My initial problem was supposedly a fuel pump, then a computer, and then vats... the car sat at the garage for two months and I told the guy to tow it back to my house. I figured out more in two days than they did in two months. That's another matter, though.

As I said, the car fires right up, I've by-passed vats with no problem. Right now I'm just trying to get it running right. It has all the spark and fuel it needs. Could the timing be somehow messed up? EGR valve stuck open? I'm at a loss here, the car should run fine as it has everything it needs.

 

How did you bypass the VATS?

The VATS module supplies 2 signals:
1) to enable the starter - simple to bypass with a jumper
2) tell the ECM to supply fuel - a module must be inserted to supply the proper signal to the ECM (ie: it can not simply be jumpered out).

From your previous post, looks like you just bypassed the key.

If it will not stay running, could be timing is way off or a vacuum leak. Is your fuel pressure ok?

 

I did indeed bypass the key. I had an open lead coming down from the column. Most likely, the wires broke. Is there any other way to bypass this other than that? I didn't think there was any other problem with the vats other than that.

 

If it is the fuel relay in the ecm they sell a bypass module for that it cost 20 something. Baker Electronix sells it. They are an ebay store. I got one, i just can not find my starter relay to jump it.

So the Realy is behind some tar behind the drivers kick panel?

 

sounds like the electrical part of the puzzle is solved...look at timing, vacuum leaks (spray carb cleaner on all the hoses) and check the egr valve. if it's stuck open, it will not idle (does it's job of diluting the fuel mixture). hope that helps

 

Installing a resistor just makes the VATS module think the correct key is being used, when I say to bypass the unit, I am refering to the point of removing it completely.

The relay is in the drivers side kick panel.

If you are handy at electronics, you can build your own passkey system to simulate the signal going to the ECM for less than $5. See here: Passkey bypass - FieroAddiction.com

Note: the passkey check can also be removed by reprogramming the MEMCAL pack in the ECM (the relay still needs to be physically bypassed).

Tim