Four Problems Fixed At Same Time
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Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 1,581
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From: So Cal
Car: 89 IROC Z28
Engine: 357 TPI
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.42 Posi
Four Problems Fixed At Same Time
Problems
1. Fuel level sending unit not working properly.
2. Tripmeter was not working at all.
3. 110 mph speedometer had a slight whistle (annoying) at low speeds.
4. Fuel pump seemed, at times to stop working and after 5-10 minutes of sitting would start again.
I became tired of having to write down my mileage so I would know when I needed gas.
Solutions
1. I bought an Autometer fuel level-sending unit. It was not the same as my stock sender but about $20.00 instead of $600 from the dealer. The stock unit was 0 ohm = empty and 90 ohms = full. Autometer was 33 ohm = full while 240 ohms = empty.
1a. Summit has a couple sending units with the correct resistences but I'm not sure if the can be adapted to the stock assembly or not. If they can then you could you use your stock fuel guage and wouldn't to remove the gauge cluster.
2. Next I went to the junkyard and pulled at gas tank from a RS Camaro and removed the Fuel Pump / Sending Unit Assembly. I also pulled a gauge cluster. Gas tank was $18.00 and cluster was $12.00.
3. I removed the sending unit by just bending a few tabs and it comes right off.
4. I drilled a couple of holes in the stock sending unit’s backing plate and bolted up the Autometer unit. Bent the float’s steel rod to approximate the stock float and attached it to sending unit.
5. I also bought a Walbro fuel pump for about $110.00 and installed on the assembly.
6. I bought an Autometer (Sport-Comp – 3316) fuel gauge for $40.00. I removed it from it housing so as to fit it in the stock cluster. I got some hex standoffs from work and retaped them to the metric thread the meter used. Adjusted them so the meter was the same height in the cluster as the rest of the gauges. I then removed the metal clips the stock fuel gauge connected to and drill new holes in the cluster housing to mount the new fuel gauge.
7. I cut and jumped traces by soldering wires to back circuit board to allow it to work properly with the new gauge.
8. Next I bought a 145mph speedometer (Redlsone member of this forum) I then came odometer spool with the one from my car so to keep the mileage. I also fixed the Tripmeter by drilling 2 small holes one on each side and inserting a small rod to hold the Tripmeter mechanism in place.
9. I paid my Autoelectric guy $175 to remove my tank install my rebuilt Fuel Pump / Sending Unit Assembly and put it back together. Money well spent, because that is a bitch of a job especially without a lift.
10. I replaced my stock gauge cluster with the one I modified and now I have a working fuel level gauge, a 145mph speedometer with the original Odometer, a working Tripmeter and Walbro 255 LPH Fuel Pump.
I did take some pictures and will post them later if anyone is interested.
1. Fuel level sending unit not working properly.
2. Tripmeter was not working at all.
3. 110 mph speedometer had a slight whistle (annoying) at low speeds.
4. Fuel pump seemed, at times to stop working and after 5-10 minutes of sitting would start again.
I became tired of having to write down my mileage so I would know when I needed gas.
Solutions
1. I bought an Autometer fuel level-sending unit. It was not the same as my stock sender but about $20.00 instead of $600 from the dealer. The stock unit was 0 ohm = empty and 90 ohms = full. Autometer was 33 ohm = full while 240 ohms = empty.
1a. Summit has a couple sending units with the correct resistences but I'm not sure if the can be adapted to the stock assembly or not. If they can then you could you use your stock fuel guage and wouldn't to remove the gauge cluster.
2. Next I went to the junkyard and pulled at gas tank from a RS Camaro and removed the Fuel Pump / Sending Unit Assembly. I also pulled a gauge cluster. Gas tank was $18.00 and cluster was $12.00.
3. I removed the sending unit by just bending a few tabs and it comes right off.
4. I drilled a couple of holes in the stock sending unit’s backing plate and bolted up the Autometer unit. Bent the float’s steel rod to approximate the stock float and attached it to sending unit.
5. I also bought a Walbro fuel pump for about $110.00 and installed on the assembly.
6. I bought an Autometer (Sport-Comp – 3316) fuel gauge for $40.00. I removed it from it housing so as to fit it in the stock cluster. I got some hex standoffs from work and retaped them to the metric thread the meter used. Adjusted them so the meter was the same height in the cluster as the rest of the gauges. I then removed the metal clips the stock fuel gauge connected to and drill new holes in the cluster housing to mount the new fuel gauge.
7. I cut and jumped traces by soldering wires to back circuit board to allow it to work properly with the new gauge.
8. Next I bought a 145mph speedometer (Redlsone member of this forum) I then came odometer spool with the one from my car so to keep the mileage. I also fixed the Tripmeter by drilling 2 small holes one on each side and inserting a small rod to hold the Tripmeter mechanism in place.
9. I paid my Autoelectric guy $175 to remove my tank install my rebuilt Fuel Pump / Sending Unit Assembly and put it back together. Money well spent, because that is a bitch of a job especially without a lift.
10. I replaced my stock gauge cluster with the one I modified and now I have a working fuel level gauge, a 145mph speedometer with the original Odometer, a working Tripmeter and Walbro 255 LPH Fuel Pump.
I did take some pictures and will post them later if anyone is interested.
Last edited by ringo234; Jan 15, 2007 at 03:24 PM.
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