Alternator or Battery?
Thread Starter
Supreme Member
iTrader: (3)
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 1,439
Likes: 3
From: Tucson, Arizona
Car: 1987 IROC-Z Camaro
Engine: L98 5.7L TPI
Transmission: 700-R4
Axle/Gears: 3.27 BW
Alternator or Battery?
So I was sitting in traffic today, with my blinker on, my foot on the brake (with brand new halogen high mount brake light bulbs), the music turned up, and the engine at dead idle. When the bass hit on my music, my deck would (almost) lose power. I checked my volt gauge, and it said it was at 8 volts. Now, I've never seen my car go over 13 volts. Even with everything off. But with all of these things on, and sitting in traffic for a good long while, it started draining the battery heavily. Now, I'm almost 100% sure the battery is fine. It's a brand new sealed AC Delco. Less than three months old. The alternator on the other hand, is factory original. Also, sometimes when I start the car (did this with the old battery too) it starts and then wants to die, and idles at like, 400 RPM instead of going into starting idle at like, 900-1100 RPM, and dropping down. I give it some gas, and all is fine, this is sometimes accompanied by excessive belt squeal. (which is hard to determine which belt, stupid v-belts)
Now, I've been looking through my Helm manual, and I see that the factory CS130's are two-wire alts as installed, but have the capability to be a three wire alt with a little bit of work. Would I be better of rebuilding this alternator with a beefier stator so I can get 140 amp output, then wiring in the three wire so I get better performance? Should I find a CS130d which everyone claims to have a better output curve? Should I buy an after market 140 amp alt that's three wire? Should I grind the case on a CS144 and make it fit a bracket that doesn't have any rear support as seen here? I've done a lot of searching, and have found little conclusive evidence other than "I did this, and I *think* it's 100x better." Which isn't all that helpful, seeing as no one replaces an alternator when their current alternator is working fine.
Thank you for any replies.
Now, I've been looking through my Helm manual, and I see that the factory CS130's are two-wire alts as installed, but have the capability to be a three wire alt with a little bit of work. Would I be better of rebuilding this alternator with a beefier stator so I can get 140 amp output, then wiring in the three wire so I get better performance? Should I find a CS130d which everyone claims to have a better output curve? Should I buy an after market 140 amp alt that's three wire? Should I grind the case on a CS144 and make it fit a bracket that doesn't have any rear support as seen here? I've done a lot of searching, and have found little conclusive evidence other than "I did this, and I *think* it's 100x better." Which isn't all that helpful, seeing as no one replaces an alternator when their current alternator is working fine.
Thank you for any replies.
Member
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 382
Likes: 0
From: Winnipeg,MB,Can
Car: 1991 GTA
Engine: 5.7L L98
Transmission: 4L60
Axle/Gears: 3.23
Re: Alternator or Battery?
Id look into the CS144. The CS130's are a small case and get hot as is with 100 amps any extra and the thing can cook. Plus the CS144 hooks up like factory(electricaly) and has good idle output.
Supreme Member
iTrader: (2)
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 1,739
Likes: 4
From: Beaufort South Carolina
Car: 1983 Camaro Z/28
Engine: LU5 305 CFI
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: J65/G80/G92-3.23
Re: Alternator or Battery?
That's the problem with most factory/stock alternators is the exciter circuit is generally set for 1500 rpm.That's the point WinnepegGTA is making(I'm dealing with this now but not with a 3rd Gen).
Thread Starter
Supreme Member
iTrader: (3)
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 1,439
Likes: 3
From: Tucson, Arizona
Car: 1987 IROC-Z Camaro
Engine: L98 5.7L TPI
Transmission: 700-R4
Axle/Gears: 3.27 BW
Re: Alternator or Battery?
Yea. I was originally joking when I thought the CS144 had to have bracket fabrication. But I found out that 96+ SUV/Van/Trucks have a CS144 that has the same mounting holes as a CS130. So I've been looking for one in a yard. If it works, good, if not, I can rebuild it. Make it better. Stronger...
Edit:
Does anyone know where I can get a rebuild kit for a CS144 that's not highway robbery? Checker sells the individual parts at allright prices, but the rectifier and diode pack are $150 EACH. Making it stupid to rebuild an alt and not get a new one. Everyone says a rebuild kit should cost like, $15. What's the deal with the CS144 being so expensive? Even ebay leaves me with only one kit, and it's $50.
Edit:
Does anyone know where I can get a rebuild kit for a CS144 that's not highway robbery? Checker sells the individual parts at allright prices, but the rectifier and diode pack are $150 EACH. Making it stupid to rebuild an alt and not get a new one. Everyone says a rebuild kit should cost like, $15. What's the deal with the CS144 being so expensive? Even ebay leaves me with only one kit, and it's $50.
Last edited by TheScaryOne; Apr 3, 2007 at 11:44 AM.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
raymondandretti
Electronics
1
Sep 27, 2015 06:43 PM





