E-Break Light On
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Junior Member
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 43
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From: North Coventry, Pa
Car: 1984 Trans Am
Engine: L98 350
Transmission: 700R4
E-Break Light On
I own an 84 TA. Just recently, the rear break line blew. When this happened, the E-Break light came on.
The line is now fixed, but the E-Break light is still on. Is there a switch or fuse that can be reset or changed, or what might be causing this and how do I get it to go out?
Thanks for your help.
The line is now fixed, but the E-Break light is still on. Is there a switch or fuse that can be reset or changed, or what might be causing this and how do I get it to go out?
Thanks for your help.
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Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 1,170
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From: Chicago(DP)
Car: '90 RS
Engine: Vortec 350
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.23 non posi
Re: E-Break Light On
Try disconnecting the battery for like 10 min or so then hook it back up. It was different with my car. I blew the rear brakes and afte ri repaired it i unhooked the battery ground adn after i hooked it up the light stayed on for a day or two then went off on it own
Re: E-Break Light On
Heh.... I just had the same thing happen to me last week. I am having other work done, but I am gonna work on that problem a little more. If I can't get it off this time, I will just pull the bulb out of the cluster... my e-brake doesn't work anyway. That is what I did with the Check Engine light... but that was because I swapped in a carbed engine.
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Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 304
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From: Woodlands, MB, Canada
Car: 1990 GTA
Engine: 5.7
Transmission: 4L60
Axle/Gears: 3.27 Posi
Re: E-Break Light On
Since you had a brake line go, I suspect the light is due to the imbalance you experienced in your brake system. I don't think it has anything to do with your e-brake.
There are two separate master cylinders on our third gen cars. (That's why there are TWO reservoirs to fill up when you're bleeding the brakes.)
There is a valve mounted in a tube that goes between these two master cylinders. The valve has a piston that remains in a neutral position as long as pressure on both sides of the hydraulic system are equal. A loss of fluid on either side causes the piston to slide to one side when the brakes are applied, which completes the electrical circuit to illuminate the brake warning light. The valve is self-centering on most applications, but must be reset on others if a problem has occurred.
First make sure both reservoirs are filled up equally and there is no air in the system.. You'll never get the light to go out otherwise.. If the light remains on, then you'll have to reset it..
I've never had to reset the valve in any GM car I've ever owned, but the method described in the link below might help.
http://wiki.answers.com/Q/How_do_you..._1979_Corvette
There are two separate master cylinders on our third gen cars. (That's why there are TWO reservoirs to fill up when you're bleeding the brakes.)
There is a valve mounted in a tube that goes between these two master cylinders. The valve has a piston that remains in a neutral position as long as pressure on both sides of the hydraulic system are equal. A loss of fluid on either side causes the piston to slide to one side when the brakes are applied, which completes the electrical circuit to illuminate the brake warning light. The valve is self-centering on most applications, but must be reset on others if a problem has occurred.
First make sure both reservoirs are filled up equally and there is no air in the system.. You'll never get the light to go out otherwise.. If the light remains on, then you'll have to reset it..
I've never had to reset the valve in any GM car I've ever owned, but the method described in the link below might help.
http://wiki.answers.com/Q/How_do_you..._1979_Corvette
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 43
Likes: 0
From: North Coventry, Pa
Car: 1984 Trans Am
Engine: L98 350
Transmission: 700R4
Re: E-Break Light On
that seems easy enough... press the break hard and build some pressure... see if it goes out...
I'll check the resevoirs first though.
thanks a lot.
I'll check the resevoirs first though.
thanks a lot.
Joined: Aug 1999
Posts: 5,261
Likes: 461
From: RI
Car: 1984 Camaro Berlinetta
Engine: LT1
Transmission: T56 6-speed
Axle/Gears: 4.11 LS1 Rear End
Re: E-Break Light On
The line is now fixed, but the E-Break light is still on.
If it's still on after bleeding your brakes again; There are 2 wires that trip the dash light........ One is mounted to the Master cylinder and the other is mounted to the E_Brake assembly. Be sure those connections are good. ( The switch on the E-Brake handle is "weak" and could be bent causing contact and then setting the warning light. )
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 43
Likes: 0
From: North Coventry, Pa
Car: 1984 Trans Am
Engine: L98 350
Transmission: 700R4
Re: E-Break Light On
i'll check that too. the breaks feel fine and firm. i'm guessing it just needs reset. thanks again.
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Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 43
Likes: 0
From: North Coventry, Pa
Car: 1984 Trans Am
Engine: L98 350
Transmission: 700R4
Re: E-Break Light On
i disconnected the negative cable on the battery and pressed the break peddle, but the light is still on. both reservoirs are equally full.
or, does that web site GTA Tim suggested mean to hold the pressure until the light goes out and not to just pump it and hold it for a few seconds?
or, does that web site GTA Tim suggested mean to hold the pressure until the light goes out and not to just pump it and hold it for a few seconds?
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Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 180
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From: mesa, arizona
Car: 84 Trans Am
Engine: 383
Transmission: Tremec TKO
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt 3.73 lsd
Re: E-Break Light On
disconnecting the battery should not have any effect as it is a mechanical switch. the switch is located in the comination valve that is under the master cylinder. heavy brake pressure is needed to re-center the valve. a "pop" may be felt or heard once the valve is centered
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