I found a fusible link wire that is branching from my positive side of the battery cable and it connects to some sort of connector via a needle like connection and it is also insulated. There is also another connector and that one has a cable from the battery side.

The wire is broken right at the male connector side so I can't just put in another piece of fusible link wire. What is the best way to repair this?

Sorry no pic, hoping someone remembers...

Ahhh... the power of search... pic with connector

 

Hey! That's my hand! :P

But the orange wire comes from the fuse on the fenderwell. That's the weatherpack on the left in the picture.

The other weatherpack goes into that rubber thing. I dunno if it's a fusible link or what. But it's got four wires coming out of it, and NONE of them go to the negative cable. The negative cable has two wires, one going to a bolt on the alternator bracket, the other going to the fenderwell.

 

If I'm understanding the problem correctly, I would simply cut out the
fusible link, and install an in-line fuse.

Make sure the gauge of the wire, and the fuse current handling is exactly
what is called for.

Use heat shrink and insulated components to keep the weather out.

 

Sorry for the handinfringement!

But on my car one of those connectors was a fusible link since when I pulled the wire it said, fusible on it but the gauge and writing on everything else was worn. It was broken right at the connection so I cant just crimp on another one. If I can fuse it what would the recommended fuse be for that area?

 

Maybe what I have is a replacement for a fusible link. I have a 20 amp fuse in a connector on my fenderwell. Never really noticed if anyone else had it. Comes from that rubber thing and goes up to the fuse.

 

This is what I did:

I replaced all links with a distribution block and 30 amp fuses per circuit
(don't mind the black wire insulation, that's all i had at the time).

 

That fusible link comes from the rubber bit I pictured. The rubber bit seems to be a distribution block, and that orange wire that comes out of it turns into a red wire, and the red wire is a fusible link, which can very well break off at the connector. That connector supplies power for your fans though, so it should be 100% unrelated to your headlight issue.

It's a 24awg fusible link according to my schematic, but I can't seem to find an amperage rating. Amperage rating on a 24awg wire is .5a, which doesn't make any sense, as it powers the fans. Or maybe it just powers the relays. I'll double check my schematic.

Oh! And you should be able to find a one-wire GM weatherpack connector at Autozone or Checker Auto parts/etc.

 

Thanks THESCARYONE, are you in tucson for school?
I graduated there in 2004

 

It does only power the relays for the coolant fans. The schematic calls for a .5 amp fusible link, which corresponds to 24awg wire.

And yes, I'm down here for school. Didn't even notice you were from Avondale. Arizonans unite!

 

I now know why my car overheats! And why I direct connected it! When i was inspecting possible shorts and stuff for my headlights not working I noticed that the fusible link was cut short at the connector and that it was held by rubber so it appeared whole... Never thought of why I had to direct connect my fan; have it set to turn on when i turn the ignition.

Guess I'll add another fusible link and connector and hope for the best or else keep it direct wired.

 

You can go get a glass fuse holder at Checker or Autozone, and run a half amp glass fuse in it. That way you have a fuse you can easily replace, and it's the correct specification for the area.

 

From looking at that plastic black thing it said '20' on it so I figured since I had a weatherproof fuse holder to put in a 20amp fuse. Also since i had already bought some I put in a fusible link but I think I got too big of a gauge, eh...

Is the 20 amp fuse too small, too large?

 

Well, that fusible link shorts at .5 amps of current. All it does is run the fan relays. Not the fans. A 20 amp fuse is probably too big. If you've already routed a blade type fuse holder, put in a 3 amp fuse. It's six times too many, but it's as close as you can get with a blade. Glass fuses go down to .5 amps, but you'd need to put in a new holder.

 

Thanks for the input... I'll probably go with a new holder.. plus if it breaks I can always hunt you down! Tucson is only 150 or so miles away!
Neither autozone or checkers had the weatherpack connectors so snipped the broken ones and attached the fuse holder; will buy one of the ones you recommended.

 

Correct me if I'm wrong. That wiring diagram uses metric wire gauge sizes. .5 metric is equivalent to 20 awg. The .5 fusible links in that diagram are there to protect the #3 size wiring. The #3 is 12 gauge awg. So your fuse should be rated to 12 gauge awg wire.
http://www.rbeelectronics.com/wtable.htm
I would not use a fuse myself. GM uses fusible links in this case to protect the wiring but allow some power surges. Fusible links don't blow as quickly as fuses. Its been my habit over the years to stock up on fusible links when I shop at junk yards and carry spares in my cars.

 

Eh. They make slow-blow glass fuses. Which is what I'd use. I dunno about the wiring diagram. I was guessing that the .5 was the amperage rating. There isn't really a key on how to read them either, so you could be entirely right. I think 20awg is 1 amp if I'm not mistaken?

 

Here's a GM link. You can see the 0.5 MM mark (upside down) and the 20 label on the plastic coupler. For education purposes only.

 

Thanks for the reply Chester, the fuse holder is in connected on either side by 14 gauge fusible link wire. Had the fusible link wire so I used it; still connected the fuse in there to complete the circuit.

Figured since I had the cable and it was cut that I might as well use it. Just spliced the ends onto the fuse holder 12gauge wire on both sides.

On the fusible link wire box from autozone it mentioned that it was designed to protect a wire 2 sizes smaller but on some sites it says it has to be 4 times smaller...