Just this morning I went to open it when it wouldn't move anymore than about a centimeter! It has always worked, I don't get it. I then pushed the button for it to go up when it was all the way up just to see, and it made a loud tapping/grinding noise. Won't do it now, but it will move up and down, just no more than1 cm. like I said.

 

There's a tech article on replacing it, bout $40 or so for a new one.

Instead of doing the monkey arm thing holding the nuts in place to reinstall it, I dab a little jb weld on them so they're stuck to the back of the motor case.

I've also reinstalled rivets which is even better.

 

What am I supposed to be replacing?

 

The Window Lift Motor.

 

oh great. you sure I have to replace it? no little tweak to get it right?

 

Does the DS work ok? If so, swap your button, from DS to PS, and see if PS works. If so, it's just your power window switch.

If not, then pull off the door panel. More often then not it's just the carbon brushes. Just replace those. Find some at the local JY, or an electrical motor rebuilder might be able to set you up with some new ones. It sure beats pulling the motor out. I can do it with the motor in place, but it requires some finesse, and a stubby wide flat blade screwdriver.

Remove the electrical plug, bend the tangs out, and remove the cap. catch the carbon/copper brushes. Go find ones from the rear doors of a 4 door at the JY (barely used), or get new brushes from a motor shop. They are rare, that's why I said go to the Jy first... 5 finger discount. This should be a free fix.

Lube the tracks while you're there, and check for anything that might be in there, jamming it up. You might get lucky and just find a rock or something jammed in there.

 

Thanks for the info Sonic. Very much appreciated.
I tried doing the first step which was to use the driver side on my passenger cable. Well....the passenger switch would not come out...so it split. It MIGHT be the problem. So, I'm going to get a new switch before anything now.

 

The tapping/grinding sound pretty much rules the switch out. I'd say time for a motor. VERY common problem on GM cars, I have done a bunch!

 

well like I said, it doesn't do it now. and I just found out NOBODY makes 90-92 window switches. nice. GM just LOVES to discontinue parts that fail.

 

I'd still doubt the switch, since it made the noise before the failure. I do happen to have two bouncing around in my console (almost the same scenerio as you, it was not the switch LOL.) I'd be happy to ship them out if you'd paypal a few bucks for shipping

 

yea, now I know it's not the switch after testing my driver one. but in my earlier post I said mine SPLIT while trying to take it out.