I was thinking inline fuse, but it doesn't open. I also was unable to trace the part number so what is the black mystery item? It is in line with the main power to my car, which, due to the previous owner runs through a switch. Everything but the power locks and headlights go through it, which I plan to change. Also included is a picture demonstrating why the wiring needs to be worked on.

 

That is an in-line waterproof wire connector. It's part of your wiring harness, sealed at the factory.

 

Thank you for the fast reply. Given that it has another crimp connector a couple inches from it I'm assuming there's no harm in removing it.

 

that looks like a fuseable link to me

 

If it was a fusible link wouldn't it open up for replacement like the inline fuses I've found?

 

No, don't remove it. It is in fact a fusable link. I should have clarified that. HottestZ28 is correct. It's a 16 gauge wire. But I don't know what the 572 is except it's some kind of amp rating I believe. Fuseable links are short pieces of a smaller diameter wire designed to melt during an over current condition. In essence, if you have an over current condition, the link inside of the sealed part would melt apart and back toward the direction of the over current.

 

No, back in the day they were a one time deal. Now they use Maxi Fuses or Fuse Elements.

 

all ive ever done with them is replace them when they burn up, if you can move it and it sounds all crunchy, or if you tug on it and it pops apart its bad, we just install a replacement

in short its just an old school fuse thats harder to replace

 

Mine was bad, I replaced it with an inline fuseholder and 30A fuse. I think a 20 or 25 amp fuse would probably be better suited though - when one of my cooling fans went bad, it melted the fuseholder in half instead of blowing the 30A fuse. I've since replaced both fans and the fuseholder, and with both on I measured about a 14 amp draw across the fuseholder. I need to try a 20 and see if that works.

 

Does anybody else see the humor in this sentence?

 

Twice in fact. That sentence has good potential.
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I guess I'll leave it in line as it still seems to be passing current (my car wouldn't be running if not). I will however be replacing that joint tonight.

 

So, replacing that silly connection with a solder joint, my car is now living between 13 and 14 volts rather than 8-11.

 

That IS a watertight connector, between regular AWG wire, and the ACTUAL FUSIBLE LINK WIRE. Fusible link wire serves as a "fuse" but it isnt a fuse at all. When it gets over current, it just burns in two, and thus requires replacing. REPLACE WITH EQUAL SIZED FUSIBLE LINK WIRE.

Apparently inside this doofy little 'water tight' seal, the connection got bad and carbon-ed up with corrosion. After replacing it with a soldered connection you have since restored the correct resistance [+/- ZERO] and the voltage has now returned. I assume this wire was from the alternator?

In the case where these guys are saying fusible link, they arent talking about a fuse holder, they are talking about wire that burns in two for protection... Fusible link is WIRE, not a fuse holder. This ends the lesson in technical jargon. Hope I helped you understand a little better. Good luck with your repairs and maintenance! Feel free to PM me if I can be of further help at all.

To KEVIN84Z28: Yes I did, LOL... Good guy though he wants to help out...

Good day!
Scott AKA YL

 

To be clear since I didn't add any photos, I replaced the section around the crimp connector with the melted yellow insulation. I did not remove the black cylinder (fusible link) from the system. It is still in series with the rest of the path. As far as I can tell there is not, nor has there ever been, a problem with it. The crappy connection was due to the wire which was simply twisted around the eyelet, not due to a failure of the fusible link.

As for what a fusible link is, I understand the concept, and what they look like internally, I had simply never seen one in person, and also didn't expect the previous owner of my car to have actually done something correctly in the wiring of the car.

 

Just for the record I thought I'd post a couple of pictures. One of a burnt fusible link and the other one after it's been repaired.



[IMG][/IMG]

 

If you look at the first picture you can tell that there was a considerable overload condition from the source (alternator). There are three fusible links connected to the alternator's output wire. Those links are what saved the vehicles wiring system. They're all probably in need of replacement. The farthest right wire looks fried,The middle wire is questionable and the third wire has had it. You would never use a fusible link in the interior or trunk of the vehicle because when they go they can be somewhat spectacular with smoke and possible fire...sparks anyway.

 

This may shed some light on my current situation...

Where was this particular link located? I'm trying to figure out my low voltage problem as well.

 

your constant draw should be 80% of your fuse rating so 20 should be what you need