wiring diagram for electric hatch pull down?
Thread Starter
Supreme Member
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Joined: Mar 2005
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From: mid GA
Car: 88 IROC
Engine: 305 TPI w/ l98 cam
Transmission: T5 5-speed
Axle/Gears: 3.45 posi disc 9 bolt
wiring diagram for electric hatch pull down?
i just rebuilt my hatch motor assembly and now it wont pull down, it grab the hatch when you go to close it but it wont pull it down to close. i know i have one wire not hooked up but cant find where it goes, i was hoping to find a diagram so i could check over everything.
Supreme Member
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 3,341
Likes: 12
From: Mooresville NC
Car: LOWERED ♦ CRIMSON METALFLAKE
Engine: ► 400 KUBES ◄
Transmission: 765R4
Axle/Gears: EATON POSI 4.56
DOODLEGRAM !
Just tap this on your typograph and magically the diagram will appear on your CRT machine.
austinthirdgen.org/mkportal/modules/contents/images/diagram_1992_hatch_pull_down_release.jpg
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Happy Racing!
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If People Drove Any Slower They’d Be Going Backwards
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Thread Starter
Supreme Member
iTrader: (7)
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 1,926
Likes: 3
From: mid GA
Car: 88 IROC
Engine: 305 TPI w/ l98 cam
Transmission: T5 5-speed
Axle/Gears: 3.45 posi disc 9 bolt
Re: DOODLEGRAM !
you are awesome sir!
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 5,964
Likes: 37
From: Hacienda Heights, CA
Car: 90 RS 'Vert, 88 IROC-Z, 88 Firebird
Engine: 305 ci tbi, 305 ci tpi, 350 ci tpi
Transmission: WC-T5, WC-T5, 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.45, 3.27, 3.27
Re: DOODLEGRAM !
He didn't say his solenoid hatch release wasn't working. There is in electrical schematic for the hatch pull-down motor. The extra wire you mention is a white wire that was not used for your model year. It was used on 1990-92 to trun on/off the hatch light when the hatch opens or closes.
Unplug your red/white stripe wire from the blue wire. Check that you have +12v at the red/white stripe wire. If the power checks good, then most likely the striker-sensing switch is bad. That switch starts the up or down cycle. The reversing switch ends the cycle.
Lon
Unplug your red/white stripe wire from the blue wire. Check that you have +12v at the red/white stripe wire. If the power checks good, then most likely the striker-sensing switch is bad. That switch starts the up or down cycle. The reversing switch ends the cycle.
Lon
Re: DOODLEGRAM !
well my hatch motor housing is broke, its just a small plastic piece, but i called all around to look for one and where do u think i can find one?
also i live in detroit michigan, if u can find one for me plz do that for me if u can and email me with the number of the place i can get it or an email i can use to get a hold of them. ty
also i live in detroit michigan, if u can find one for me plz do that for me if u can and email me with the number of the place i can get it or an email i can use to get a hold of them. ty
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 2,960
Likes: 377
From: Las Vegas
Car: 1987 Formula (original owner)
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: T5
Axle/Gears: 9-bolt/3.45
Re: DOODLEGRAM !
well my hatch motor housing is broke, its just a small plastic piece, but i called all around to look for one and where do u think i can find one?
also i live in detroit michigan, if u can find one for me plz do that for me if u can and email me with the number of the place i can get it or an email i can use to get a hold of them. ty
also i live in detroit michigan, if u can find one for me plz do that for me if u can and email me with the number of the place i can get it or an email i can use to get a hold of them. ty
http://www.top-downsolutions.com/
Thread Starter
Supreme Member
iTrader: (7)
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 1,926
Likes: 3
From: mid GA
Car: 88 IROC
Engine: 305 TPI w/ l98 cam
Transmission: T5 5-speed
Axle/Gears: 3.45 posi disc 9 bolt
Re: DOODLEGRAM !
He didn't say his solenoid hatch release wasn't working. There is in electrical schematic for the hatch pull-down motor. The extra wire you mention is a white wire that was not used for your model year. It was used on 1990-92 to trun on/off the hatch light when the hatch opens or closes.
Unplug your red/white stripe wire from the blue wire. Check that you have +12v at the red/white stripe wire. If the power checks good, then most likely the striker-sensing switch is bad. That switch starts the up or down cycle. The reversing switch ends the cycle.
Lon
Unplug your red/white stripe wire from the blue wire. Check that you have +12v at the red/white stripe wire. If the power checks good, then most likely the striker-sensing switch is bad. That switch starts the up or down cycle. The reversing switch ends the cycle.
Lon
hey thanks man, ill try that tomorrow i still cant get the stupid thing to close. ive been looking at that white wire trying to figure out where it goes. so on my 88 it still came with the wire but it just wasnt hooked up to anything? that doesnt make much sense
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