Yes, I did search. I was having problems with my car occasionally not starting, so I figured I would try the VATS resistor bypass. Unfortunately, whatever idiot had it before me had already done the resistor bypass, but in an extremely half-*** way, There were 2 4.7k ohm resistors spliced into the white wires coming off the connector for the VATS system (purple/white and black/white) So the resistance of my key measured about 1500 ohms. So I replaced the resistors (which were duct-taped in ) with a 1500 ohm resistor. Car wouldn't start.

So I wired back in 2 4.7k ohm resistors. Car won't start. Not getting any codes or anything, just a massive headache.

Someone please help me before I have an aneurysm. Are the two single white wires coming off the VATS connector supposed to connect to something? Or do they essentially make a loop from one terminal to the other? Because they weren't connected to anything before I started messing with it.

P.S. I hate when people do stupid things.

 

Nobody? The orange wrapped double-white wire has been clipped completely, I'm pretty lost on what to do now. It worked when the wire was clipped before, but wont now.

 

try this thread: https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/elec...ese-wires.html

 

The two wires just connect to each other via a plug. I did the same thing years ago I actually cut the ends and just soldered a resistor in place on those white wires and then plugged it back in

are you sure you have the right resistance for you key?

(Set your meter to the 20k ohm setting)
VATS # (K)OHMS

1———— 0.402
2———— 0.523
3———— 0.681
4————-0.887
5————-1.130
6————-1.470
7————-1.870
8————-2.370
9————-3.010
10————3.740
11————4.750
12————6.040
13————7.500
14————9.530
15————11.801

few good pictures for ya

http://www.shbox.com/1/vats_bypass.jpg
https://www.thirdgen.org/tech/images...tanceTable.jpg


Once you disconnect the harness, put the key in the ignition and ohm check the wiring harness on the side with the two white wires.


If you get the value of the key then your problem with the VATS is somewhere else after the wiring harness.... The bypass won't work in this situation...


you could try one of these. No idea if they work., I always use a resistor.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Vats-...171|240%3A1318


that should get ya started. hopfully you get it figured out.

 

I appreciate the help guys, I did find those threads when I searched, and had the right resistance from my key but when I used the right resistor combination, it didn't work.

Turns out the previous owner had soldered in a resistor waaaaay high up in the steering column.

That was a fun 6 expletive filled hours. Finally got it working now.

 

Well it's great that your problem is fixed but I am having a similar issue.
Checked the resistance with the key in the cylinder and I get the proper
value when I do.
So what do I need to look at next if the problem is after the harness.
I now have nothing going on when I turn the key. I have a bypass on order
and should be here soon.
I think I goofed somewhere along the line. What does the bypass module look
like and where EXACTLY is it located. I disabled something from the kick panel
area thinking it was a factory alarm system and chucked it. I hope that
wasn't the vats module.
Help!!

 

Kick panel as in...drivers side, left of the fuse panel? You may have chucked your starter relay...

No way you could've gotten rid of the VATS box, it's behind the passenger dash, from what I understand.

 

It's been chucked for a while (months) so I don't think it's the starter relay.
In fact I just ordered a theft deterrent relay from napa. Is this the same
as the starter relay?
Got a pic of the vats module?
I'm guessing the purple and white wires are going to it?