Ok I am installing a remote started on my bird nothing fancy just on and off and lock and unlock its a nice lil system got it from work for 15 bucks discontinued from my work so my manager gave me a nice drug deal on it lol. got a few questions for anyone that might of instaled in there bird

1. there is a wire that it wants me to splice in to the heater/Ac, when I hook that up does that mean that the heater will come on when the system is active or does it mean that power will be provied to the heater. and will i have to leave the heat turned to the on postion when i turn off the car seeing as its a vac controled system if the selctor is not to heat air will only come out the defroster?

2. Next it wants me to hook in to my tach wire or the oil switch witch is better to hook in i just put a new oil switch in a few months ago. for the tach it says on the wireing chart form bulldogsecurity that the wire is at my coil so do i run a wire to were the coil is then?

3. Now comes the neutral safty switch it asks me to wire in to the input wire and it indacates its a negative wire does anyone know witch wire it is that i need to cut in to (color would help best) or even better picture lol

4. Horn this system does not have an alarm that i can tell but it wants me to hook in to the horn should i still make this connection or should i just cap that wire off?

sorry for asking so many questions i just do not wanna mess this up lol i do have a keyless enrty system in there now that was a peice of cake to do tho compared to this lol thats comeing out and going on my sisters rice cuz her rice needs some new stuff every now and then too lol.

other then that i think i understand the rest of the install just wish there were better diagrams out there i have a servic manual for an 88 bird that i use for my 90 works great but i cant find much better in there. Also if anyone wants a copy of that manual let me know i can e-mail it to ya its a PDF file about 100 mbs but well worth it 1800 pages of firebird bliss lol

here is a link to the system i am putting in its a prety nice system and even better that i got it for 15 bucks new lol

http://www.autoalarmpro.com/inc/sdetail/1958

thanx everyone

 

orange wire in the ignition harness for the heater/climate control. this provides power to the blower while the car's running off remote start. you still have to preset the temp, outlet, and speed before in advance.

tach wire is to monitor engine speed. it's required to disengage the starter and maintain a running condition. what if it stalls out? that's why. don't hook to oil pressure, and on the coil there's a negative pole you can put a ring terminal and wire on, possibly even a wire already there. or the white wire behind the instrument cluster i believe should be tach for the gauge, but i wouldn't tap into it.

neutral safety, do you have an auto or manual. either way you can run that wire to ground or to a toggle switch and then ground. then if you don't want someone else using the remote start function you can disable it with the toggle switch. auto or manual, in the center console there's a tan/white wire. it's either on the parking brake or on the shifter. that's grounded when parking brake is up, or in park/neutral.

horn is to honk once, honk twice, panic from your remote. it's nice to have, black wire in steering column should connect to, unless positive out then connect to green wire at horns (under driver front fender well)

 

Matt pretty much said all you need to know, but I just wanted to throw out that if you do decide to use the horn feature, it's usually a high draw circuit and you should really use a relay to isolate the alarm and power the horn, triggered by the alarm.

I installed a Viper remote start on my 240SX about 4 years ago, and also had to wire in a relay to flip the clutch switch during the start procedure. So if you have a manual trans you'll need to do this step along with making sure the handbrake works good and you always keep the car in neutral when parked, don't ask me how I know.
Just take your time and use a multimeter to verify the wires before cutting or splicing. Also, please for the love of your car, don't use T-Taps, solder your connections, T-Taps can cut through the wires and cause more resistance in your wires, I have even seen starter wires cut almost in half by T-Taps.

 

bump.. considering this in the near future...

 

Now this is what i call help thanx a mill guys now i am sure i can do this. as for the horn i read into the system i have it does not have an alarm i am sure of now but it will beep the horn when i lock or unlock the doors so screw that wire lol i hate it when the beeps the parking lights are more then enought for me with the keyless entry i have now it does nothign to indicate its unlocked the locks are loud enough i can here it unlock lol probly gonna do this next week haveing a hard time finding a resistor that matches my key mine is 522 ohms but the ones i keep finding are like 560 so gotta do some calling around tomarrow to find one then i can disable the VATS. i have a bypas box we sell at my work but its 20 freeking dollars and a resistor is like 1 dollar lol

 

Don't forget you can stack resistors to get the resistance you need. So if you need 522 then you can take a 300+220 for 520, I can't remember what the tolerance is on the VATS system but I know it does not have to be dead on the resistance.

 

that might be work for me do i just put one on the wire then one more above the last never did this b4 so figering out as i go lol

 

Yeah you can just wire them up end to end. Something I would always do to prevent breakage of the thin wires on the resistors was, after soldering them together take a piece of plastic and electrical tape it to the resistor pack to keep it from bending too much and breaking the wires.

 

I can not find any resistors around me in 522 ohms one place has a 523 witch I am sure would work fine but he is only able to sell them in packs of 200 lol. God I hate this state never can find what ya need lol. I think I am just gonna use a spare resistor from an old key I have laying around. I will just solider wires to that and wire it in that should work great and it will be free lol.

I did have one more question, The yellow wire at the ING switch that goes to the starter is smaller then the wire that is on the remote starter harness. Will that hurt anything? I dont think it will but i wanna be sure last thing I need is to melt a main wire lol.

Thanx guys

 

lol doing this tomarrow

 

different wire sizes will be fine.

 

AWSOME I found a resistor today and ordered it bad side its on 6 week back order so i made my own with a spar ristor that fell out of a key i had so that will work fine temp till i get the resistor to make my own harrness.

Thanx again man you have more then helpfull

 

Well got it all wired up yesterday and WOW NOTHING lol it does not work i checked all my wireing its all fine the keyless entry works and the ingtion controled locks works fine but i can not get the unit to go in to programing mode its like the valet switch is not working or the unit its self is defective. but all thw wireing is correct i re probed everything and sure enough its all in the right place so right now i have about 20 wires hanging down lol not easy to drive if i cant figer it out by monday i have a freind that owns a car audio rice shop thay do very nice work tho maybe he can figer out whats worng with it. If its the module then they will send me a new one. needless to say i was prety dissapointed but hey thats how it goes. I will keep ya all posted on how it goes

 

well I give up on the 350r system so now i am just gonna buy a better system moveing up the 550r system it does alot more and is a 2 way system so i know that she started and such has line 6 programable wires too getting it on friday when i get paid that way i can get this damn project finshed then i can move on to the HID setup one things at a time tho lol

 

if the button switch for the programming mode is broken you can put a screwdriver on and off the 2 probes sticking out the alarm module to make the connection as many presses as it takes. if you can't get it that way... idk

 

yeppers tried that still responds the same. I also tested the switch with an OHM meater and its working fine, So it has to be main control unit. As soon as I get a replacment unit I will just put the system in my sisters rice, Sence her rice need some love too not much just some lol. Then gonna install the new system in the bird this sunday if its nice out. I just wanna get this finshed and out of the way so when my HID kit comes I can do that right away and not have to be bothered by all the damn wireing that still needs done lol.

 

Ok got my check this morning so I am gonna be getting the new system today when I get to work. I'll post up some pics of the new system tonight. This is the system I am gonna go with for the replacement.

http://bulldogsecurity.com/Products/...ess-entry.aspx

 

If you find the VATS relay behind the driverside lower kick panel, then cut the two big wires going into that relay and splice them together, that may fix your issue.

 

I thought most times to bypass vats, you had to find the resistance value of your key and find the proper resistors and splice them in...

 

he's talking about the starter disable relay. if he has tpi though not only does it have a starter disable, it will have a fuel injector disable. so there's 2 ways to get around vats (easy/hard) easy way is to do the resistors to simulate the key being in. hard way is to bypass the starter relay and reprogram your computer chip to eliminate vats output, or buy a special harness to simulate the key input to the ecm. if you ground the wire to the ecm for the vats input, it's not going to work. the input needs a certain type of ground in a 0-5 volt 30 hertz square wave signal or something odd and i think it has to be different each time...

good reads

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/elec...ss-module.html

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/ltx-...ss-module.html

 

Yeppers I have TBI so is all i did is take an old chip I had from a spare key and used that. Got the new system works awsome. however I had to disconnect the tach wire on this system if you use the tach its for cars that take more then 6 seconds to start so when i fired it up it started to grind so I shut it down right away. then switched to power checking mode and it woked but it would start run for 15 seconds then stop and then start again and stop again so I switched the setting to hi checking mode for power and it works like a charm now. The nice thing is its a 2 way system so it tells me the car is running or if a door is open or turnk all kinds of neat things like that. i did not hook up the trunk or dome lights yet tooo damn cold i will just finshed that stuff when spring comes i just kinda shoved the unit up and out of the way for now lol will mount it nicer this spring for now it works and will make it till then.

 

all dei alarms have a tach learn routine, not sure about your brand. you have to 1st make your alarm aware of what rpm it should run at and then try remote starting using tach setting.