alright 283 sbc carbed new battery new terminals and wires

red wires from the wiring harness are going into the big starter prong
as well as the alternator and the battery terminal.
the purple one is going to the small lead outta the starter.

starter is new and in working order.

the black battery ground is going to the alternator bracket, and the one from the frame is going to a water pump bolt.

my dilema- no light no nothing inside the car, i took the starter out had it tested at 3 places its fine put it back it same diff battery is at 13 amps.

help?

 

The starter doesn't supply power to the inside of the car so I'm not sure why you're looking at that? Power to the cabin is supplied through the connector on the firewall on the driver's side. Right below the brake booster.

 

i know where the c100 plus is at and i wired it proper;y unless theres anther connection for the cabin.

im not getting anything electrical no lights nothing. could it be a miswired neutral saftey switch in the car, or maybe the ignition switch?

 

Are any of the lights working? Interior or exterior?

When you turn the key, do the dash gauges and lights go through their test phase?

If both answers are "No" then you are not getting any power in the cabin. That only comes through the C100 connector. Nothing else provides power to the cabin.

Do you have a test light or DMM? If you do, check for battery voltage at the starter(positive lead on the large starter wires, negative lead on the battery terminal or engine ground strap) and the positive terminal of the alternator(positive lead on the battery terminal at the back of the alternator, negative lead on the battery or engine ground strap). The large red wires going to the starter have fusible links in them and if those are blown it will cause the problems you are seeing.

When you say you connected the battery negative terminal to the alternator bracket, is it connected to the bracket only, or is it connected using one of the bolts that attaches the bracket to the block?


If Yes to #1 and No to #2, then you may have a bad ignition switch.


If Yes to both, then it could be a problem with VATS, the starter enable relay, or the wiring to the starter.

 

no vats in my car thet i am aware of , i am purchasing a voltage checker for the car the prior owner put in a b and m shifter and has the neutral safety switch and the back up switch i dont believe its wired right if you know how to wire it greatly appreciated because b and m picture and directions are confusing to say the least. i rested the alternator its new and it works fine as well, no lights or hums to anything,the switch isnt done right i understand nothing would work in the car either.

i know the top switch in the neutral safety switch, and the botton is the back up switch i just want know how its wired properly .

thank you for you help so far greatly appreciated

 

Update i have to run to auto zone to get a volt checker and i found out how to wire the backup and neutral safety switches, i have to buy some wire and connectors because the prior owner didnt do it right. im going to connect them back up and go from there.
im going to mount the - terminal to the engine over from the alternator bracket.

 

89 Camaros and Firebirds had VATS. Unless the PO ripped it out when he did the engine swap.

VATS would only prevent the starter from cranking, however. If your not getting any lights or anything working inside the car then you've got other issues. If the PO swapped out the ignition switch, then its very likely they didn't connect up the wiring correctly. The connections are on top of the steering column down at the base. Above the pedals.

As for the B&M shifter, I have no idea how to wire those up as I've got a manual trans. If can post the wiring diagram for it or a link to it, I can take a look and probably explain it.

 

the switches work like this-
neutral safety switch bottom switch- purple and yellow wires
back up switch top switch drk blue and light green

orange and black you heat shrink and move those outta of the way
plus the idiots before were supposed to extend the stock wiring so have to fix that as well. after i correct the shifter im going to inspect the ignition switch.

 

alright i have all my accessory lights windows ect but no crankage. checked fuses they are all good, im going to auto zone for a starter relay, i replaced the igniting switch. vats im goign to do a search here to see how to bypass the vats crap if you have any ideas im all ears.

ty all for the help.

 

You should easily be able to find how to bypass VATS with a search, but generally it goes like this:

Take a DMM and measure the resistance of the chip in the key.

Head over to your local Radio Shack and but a resistor of the same(or very close) value

Find the connector at the base of the steering column for the VATS system and unplut it

Connect your resistor across the connectors terminals and tape it down well.

 

couldn't i just screw the vats and install a push button starter?

 

the PO grrr the ecm is gone, dont know if i need one to disable the vats. i cannot find the vats or the white wires with a orange covering?

i bought the resistors needed to bypass it from radio shack .