I have a 89 camaro with the key in the run position the engine is already cranking over it will stay running but the starter also stays running. The car has the starter relay bypassed and the vats wires have a resistor bypassing it. PLEASE HELP!!!!!!

 

Well just because it cranks in the run position dosnt mean that its necessarily the ignition switches fault. Is this a new problem since the VATS delete was done or did it happen afterward? Also how is the starter relay bypassed?

 

when i got the car it didn't do anything cranking wise, they had a push button wired to the starter to the battery it would crank that way. i removed the push button and hooked the key switch back up, i bypassed the starter relay by hooking the wires on pins A&E together.

 

Ok well first thing I would do is go to where you bypassed the starter enable relay and undo that connection. Then I would put the key into the run position and look for 2 things. First if it cranks or not. If it does than you have some sort of a wiring issue between the starter relay and the starter. If it does not crank I would take a volt meter and measure the voltage on pin E. If you measure 12V here you have a problem between the battery and the starter enable relay. This test should point you in the right direction and cut the amount of potential problems in half.

 

i tried that and it cranks with the connection disconnected, i dont have a voltmeter at my house right now but on pin E i hooked a test light up to it and nothing happened.

 

Ok well if your bypass at the starter relay disconnected it should not have been able to start. Furthermore because it did we can eliminate the ignition switch as a possible problem. The next place I would go is to your neutral safety switch. Depending if you have an automatic or a stick shift it will weather be at the shifter if you have an automatic or at the top of your clutch pedal assembly. The test we do here will be much the same as before disconnect the safety switch and see if it cranks. If it does you have a problem between the safety switch and the starter. If it does not crank take your test light and test for power at the safety switch on the tan/white wire or dark brown depending on which you have (its the wire that goes to pin A at your starter enable relay). The test light should light up and it means you have a problem between the starter enable relay and the safety switch.

 

The car has a B&M megashifter in it, they have a purple and a blue wire hooked to the nss. when i unhook the purple wire it wont crank and the test light lights up.

 

Ok well youve found your problem. What happened was they were trying to hook the revers lights or the neutral safety switch and got the wiring for both systems mixed up. The blue wire is the 12 V supply for the back up lights and the purple wire goes to the starter so of course the starter would crank. What you need to do is first figure out if that switch is for the reverse lights or the neutral safety switch and then hook the wires up correctly. The wires should be paired as follows:

The blue wire is the 12V supply for the back up lights and the light green goes to the back up lights.

The yellow wire comes from the starter enable relay and the purple wire goes to the starter.

Once this is fixed up you should be all set.

 

That worked thank you very much. Car is now running great.

 

Need your help too Rolling Thunder. Ok ,my car is a 91 tpi 350 car. Sometimes the car starts up on the 1st try and sometimes it takes 10 to 20 turns of the ignition switch. I will just get a single click! over and over until it finally decides to start cranking. Should i disable my starter enable relay? where should i start testing? I do have a multimeter.

 

Where is the click coming from the starter of the starter enable relay? If its coming from the starter that means the starter enable relay is probably fine as the starter could do nothing it if were just shot. Absolute first thing I would do is check my connections at the battery/starter and also your grounds.

 

I ended up just installing a push button switch and done with it now. Now it starts everytime and it is fool proof. Connected it directly to starrter.

 

I have 89' RS replaced the ignition switch and now the car won't start.Cylinder rolls over but theres no crank over also I can't move the gearshift now.Lights all work theres power just no crank also checked fuse

 

KDOG:

Did you replace the key cylinder or the ignition switch (2 different things)?
{switch is on top of column under dash, key cylinder is where key goes}

If Key cylinder, did you get a VATS key cylinder or a regular one?

If a regular one, did you bypass the VATS module with a resistor?