87 camaro fuel pump wiring glitch?
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Car: 1987 camaro,88 firebird
Engine: 2.8 v6,5.0 tpi
Transmission: manual
Axle/Gears: 3.47
87 camaro fuel pump wiring glitch?
v6.. the fuel pump relay works. and i ripped the carpet out in the back and noticed there are 3 wires going into the body to where the fuel tank is. black,red and green. i used a test light on them and not one of them lit up every time the key was turned or even cranked.. im assuming they are the power for the fuel pump..... is there a fusible link that is for the fuel area? and if so where is it.. you need to be very specific.. i have no idea whatyim looking for..any help will be appreciated
#2
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Re: 87 camaro fuel pump wiring glitch?
Im not sure what wires youre looking at but the fuel pump power circuit is tan/wht from the relay then brown then tan to the pump. As I remember, the tank unit harness passes through the body just between the rear seat backs. Ive never had to peel back carpet to find it. It's fairly accessible from under the car. In fact there is a connector right where the harness comes out of the body to the tank. The wire colors in the harness at the tank are 1 tan, 2 black, 1 pink.
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Car: 1987 camaro,88 firebird
Engine: 2.8 v6,5.0 tpi
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Re: 87 camaro fuel pump wiring glitch?
so there is no fusible link? the wires i was talking about are under the rear carpet in between the back seat and the body(when u fold the seat back) a black wire, pinkand a green or something wire i believe unless im colorblind. i only saw 3 wires. not 4.i used a testlight to those 3 and none of them lit up
Last edited by walkthelin3; 09-29-2010 at 03:22 PM. Reason: typo
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Car: LOWERED ♦ CRIMSON METALFLAKE
Engine: ► 400 KUBES ◄
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Pump Slump
Even tho the fuel pump relay clicks, you still need to see if the contact is getting power.
There is an inline fuse near the battery for the relay.
The link passes power to the orange wire going to the relay.
The orange wire needs to have power on it at all times, even when the car is OFF.
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I Hit The Water Barrels Because My Car Was Dirty
.
There is an inline fuse near the battery for the relay.
The link passes power to the orange wire going to the relay.
The orange wire needs to have power on it at all times, even when the car is OFF.
◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙
Happy Racing!
◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙
I Hit The Water Barrels Because My Car Was Dirty
.
#5
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Car: 1987 camaro,88 firebird
Engine: 2.8 v6,5.0 tpi
Transmission: manual
Axle/Gears: 3.47
Re: Pump Slump
Even tho the fuel pump relay clicks, you still need to see if the contact is getting power.
There is an inline fuse near the battery for the relay.
The link passes power to the orange wire going to the relay.
The orange wire needs to have power on it at all times, even when the car is OFF.
◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙
Happy Racing!
◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙
Happy Racing!
◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙
I Hit The Water Barrels Because My Car Was Dirty
.
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Car: 1992 RS
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Transmission: 700R4
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Re: Pump Slump
The green/white wire at the relay is the signal wire - it gets 12v from the ECM to energize the relay (I'm pretty sure it gets 12v+, I know the fan relay gets a ground signal, but I think the fuel pump relay gets a 12v+ signal). The relay should also have an orange wire - this should have power always and comes from that fuse tucked in the fender behind the battery - make sure that fuse is good. There is also a tan/white wire at the relay, this wire runs from the relay to the fuel pump - it should have 12v when the relay is energized.
The wires at the tank should be black, tan/white, and pink as mentioned. Black is ground, tan/white is fuel pump power (12v+), and pink is for the guage from the fuel sending unit.
So, if relay is working, then should have 12v+ on the tan/white wire out of the relay - but it will only be there for 2 seconds when ECM primes the pump, and then again after the car is running. Should also have 12v on the tan/white wire going into the fuel tank under the car - but again only for 2 seconds when ECM is priming fuel pump, or after the car is running.
If relay clicks when key turned on (will need two people to test, one to hold relay and one to turn key since you only have 2 seconds), then check the tan/white wire at tank for 12v when key turned on (again will need two people to test because of the 2 seconds). Also, the relay won't always click when key turned on - if it was just energized in the last couple minutes, the ECM won't energize it again as the ECM knows it just primed the pump a minute ago.
http://www.austinthirdgen.org/mkport...ine_wiring.gif
The wires at the tank should be black, tan/white, and pink as mentioned. Black is ground, tan/white is fuel pump power (12v+), and pink is for the guage from the fuel sending unit.
So, if relay is working, then should have 12v+ on the tan/white wire out of the relay - but it will only be there for 2 seconds when ECM primes the pump, and then again after the car is running. Should also have 12v on the tan/white wire going into the fuel tank under the car - but again only for 2 seconds when ECM is priming fuel pump, or after the car is running.
If relay clicks when key turned on (will need two people to test, one to hold relay and one to turn key since you only have 2 seconds), then check the tan/white wire at tank for 12v when key turned on (again will need two people to test because of the 2 seconds). Also, the relay won't always click when key turned on - if it was just energized in the last couple minutes, the ECM won't energize it again as the ECM knows it just primed the pump a minute ago.
http://www.austinthirdgen.org/mkport...ine_wiring.gif
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#8
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Re: Pump Slump
For testing at the pump, I generally jumper the relay to provide constant power to the pump harness. Then, once I know I have continuity through the harness, I test the power during prime and crank to be sure.
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