I am pulling my 305 tpi out of my 85 and putting it in my 84. does anyone know a diagram of all the wires passing through the bulk head on the drivers side?

 

IIRC, all of the ecm wiring passes through the bulkhead in the passenger side door hinge pillar.

 

None of the TPI wires are on driver side - all on pass side.

Just about all wiring diags here: http://www.austinthirdgen.org/index.php?pid=19

 

I know all the wiring for the ecm is on the pass side. But on the drivers side all the wires for the gauges and stuff were just cut. So I need a diagram to wire them all to the 84.

 

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/ltx-...formation.html

Your 84 wont have enough fuses to support the TPI as-is. Add a secondary fuseblock somewhere for the INJs, ECM, Fuel pump and MAF/burnoff

Secondary things like emissions and fans will also have to be added

 

This is the wiring that i am talking about. I need to know what each wire is for so i can wire it to the 84 and possibly add another fuse block.

 

Dont you hate when people are lazy and chop stuff out?

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/ltx-...formation.html

This site has good info on a cheap, easy to install fuseblock
http://www.lt1swap.com/fuseblock_obd2port.html

 

Thanks that looks like what i needed.

 

ok i tried to follow the wiring diagram on the link you posted but i am still not getting power to my injectors. Could you let me know what wire in what connector i need to hook to fused 12v? im sorry i am just stupid when it comes to wiring.

 

Your 84 doesnt have enough fuses for the TPI, namely the two injector fuses

 

i got an extra fuse block and am trying to figure out what wires to hook to it. I hooked Pin B and G from connector 207 and still no power to the injectors. Also when i hook those up i hear a click from where the ECM is. Is that normal or is that a breaker i am tripping? again i am lost with wiring and any help is appreciated.

 

If i hook 12 v to all the pink\black wires on top of the intake for the injectors shouldn't that power them? When i do that and use a multimeter to check the connectors it shows that the pink\black is 12v and the light green is 12v am i missing something here?

 

You just need to hook 12v to one wire on each side for the injectors. Each bank should be connected. Confirm this with your meter

Here is a diagram to help things. It's for 86-89 TPIs but you get the idea of how things work. Notice, the pnk/blk wires are the fuse and the green/blue wires are ECM grounded to fire the injector solenoids. If you're showing 12v on the pnk/blk wires on both banks then your problem is elsewhere



Next, test that your ECM fused wire is in place. C207 pin F for all years. Most are pnk/blk

After that test the battery wire for the ECM. The fuel pump relay and ECM are tied under the same fuse which is located near the battery in a separate holder under a black cap. Ensure the 20A fuse isnt blown. Now, pop the fuel relay off and make sure there is 12v on the orange wire at all times (IGN on and off). Assuming the stock harness hasnt been messed with too much the connection from the relay to the ECM should still be intact

Those cover the basic power wires. Now test the grounds. Visually check and wiggle the ground rings on the cyl heads to make sure theres a good contact. Next do a resistance test from any of the sensor black wires to chassis/engine ground and note the resistance value. Smaller is better. TPS is an easy to access one

Once those check out move onto the fuel system. Turn the key to IGN and listen for the pump to prime. No prime means either the pump is bad or the circuit is open. Pull the fuel relay and bridge the orn and tan/wht wires with a short length of spare wire. The pump should turn on indefinitely

No pump sound means the pump wire isnt connectod between the relay and tank or bad pump

If the pump turns on, you're looking at a VATS issue

Test these and report back

 

Im showjing 12 volts on pink/black and green and blue what would cause green and blue to show 12 volts

 

Connection down the line where there shouldnt be. You've got problems

 

If i disconnect all the injectors and test i only get positive on the pink\black like i am supposed to. but if i leave the other injectors hooked up when i test i get positive on both... bad injectors? also quick question, there is a switch where the fuse block is, is that stock and if so what is it for?

 

OK, you had me confused that you got 12v on an unplugged injector connector. Thats fine

Any switch near the fuseblock is not stock. The only switches that should be around are mounted on the dash for fog lights, headlights, hatch, defrost etc

 

I checked the Resistance for the ground on the TPS and got 37 Ohm is that to high?

 

Thats fine

Several hundred to a few thousand would mean a poor connection

 

Ok so i don't know where to go from here. If I take my multi meter and hook the black to ground and test the Injector connectors i get positive on both wires going to the injectors. If i take the connectors off all the injectors and test i get 12v on the left wire and nothing on the right wire. Both wires shouldn't be getting 12v when they are all hooked up correct?

 

12v is traveling through the injector when its connected. The solenoid isnt fired but a meter will register the minuscule amount of current that flows through. Same way with relays

Look elsewhere, injectors are fine

 

It seems like it is not getting fuel. Thats why i thought it was the injectors. How can i check that the injectors are firing when they need to?

 

Pull a plug wire, try to crank a few revolutions then pull the plug. See if it's wet

Ensure that fuel is all it's lacking by running it for a few seconds on ether

Are you sure the pump is running?

 

im no expert im just spitballin here but arent carbed engines run of mechanical pumps on the engine? maybe he needs a pump set up in his tank? again not an expert but maybe its as simple as that?

 

He is injected, not carb.

 

i know hes going tpi thats the only reason why i thought this might be an issue (didnt know if the old engine was injected or carb) ... disregard my previous text then ... but i hope you get it runing right wiring sux after someone hacks it up i finally got my 91 z28 to start and run after 2 months of rewiring becaus ethe previous owner wanted to go naturally aspirated so he cut out the harness then decided to stay tpi and spliced everything back in like a jerk! but like i said good luck and dont lose motivation!!

 

Pump is running and at 45 psi. When i pull the plug it is wet. I will get a can of ether tomorrow after work and i will let you guys know how it goes. I appreciate everyones help i am hoping to have this running by April 1st, that was my goal anyways.

 

if you have fuel wouldnt the next thing to check is ignition? timing and things of that nature?

 

Sprayed some Starting fluid in there and she fired right up and kept running.. Just needed a little push i guess. New question on the alternator there is a connector but when i got the motor the convector had broken off and the PO had just put single spade connectors on. 1 wire goes to 12+ correct and the other? and which pin do they go on?

 

I think the problem might be with the Cold start injector... Does any one know if there is supposed to be a separate fuse for it? I looked at my Haynes manual wiring diagrams and cant seem tot find it.

 

3A crank fuse on the left mid ways down on the posted diagram. C207 pin R ppl/wht. 12v under cranking only

 

After some more testing i found the computer is not firing the injectors. He have verified that all the injectors have power, the computer has power and ground, we have traced and tested the wires from the fuel injectors back to the computer. Also verified the wire from distributor to the computer. There are two things i am missing the Intake air temp sensor and the vss buffer, the tach does not work and i am assuming it is because the vss buffer is not in place. Would any of these two cause the computer not to fire the injectors? If not i am thinking i need to replace the ECM.

 

Injectors not firing sounds like VATS. Bad ECM/PCM is pretty uncommon

 

I didn't think this car had the vats system but how can I check to be sure?

 

Anyone know how i can check to make sure i don't have VATS?

 

Can i find out from my vin or rpo codes what computer i need? It had been replaced by the PO so i does not have the original numbers on it.

 

This is all the info on the computer

 

That's an A1 Cardone rebuilt computer for 85 only 5.0 tuned port.

 

Thanks for the info. I ordered one last night!

 

Put the new ECM in and it made no difference. Picked up a new ICM from summit put it and it fired right up! Now you can feel it missing at any RPM and the SES light is on. So now i have to check the codes and see what is going on. Also after it runs for a while and i try to start it again it wont almost like it isnt getting fuel again so I got and ignition switch from autozone and i will be putting that in tomorrow.

 

Check your wiring at the distributor and chect the cap n rotor

 

Keep running into issues with the tpi/computer so i am going carb for now. Question do i have to keep the computer to control the tranny?

 

Get a vacuum lock-up switch