Heater Problems
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From: Joplin, MO
Car: 1991 Chevy Camaro Z28
Engine: L98 350 5.7L
Transmission: TH700R4
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Heater Problems
I have a 1991 Z28 that the heat does not work in it. I just replaced the fan motor. But I am thinking it could be the blower resistor or the selector switch that is keeping it from working. Any inputs on the situation. Thanks for the help.
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Re: Heater Problems
The resistor I think is only used for lower fan speeds, so fan should still blow on high maybe. Did you check the relay - it's under the hood on or close to the heater box.
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Car: 1991 Chevy Camaro Z28
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Transmission: TH700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.23
Re: Heater Problems
Yea it has recently been replaced as well because i started with the cheap things first.
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This Thread Is Hot Air
Originally Posted by chrishall1984
I am thinking it could be the blower resistor or the selector switch that is keeping it from working.
We will assume the car has or had AC (if it never did the circuit is different).
Using a voltmeter or test light (the type for testing for voltage, not a continuity tester) probe the blower relay pin A red wire.
It doesn’t matter what position the ignition key is in.
Is there power on the red wire?
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He Must Have Been Be Cheating - Because I Was And He Almost Beat Me.
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Thread Starter
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From: Joplin, MO
Car: 1991 Chevy Camaro Z28
Engine: L98 350 5.7L
Transmission: TH700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.23
Re: Heater Problems
the air coming out of vents does get hot but does not have any force behind it coming out of vents. not even through all selections on blower speed or through heater and defrost and vent selections. fan motor does not kick on at all
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Car: LOWERED ♦ CRIMSON METALFLAKE
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Transmission: 765R4
Axle/Gears: EATON POSI 4.56
This Thread Is Hot Air
Originally Posted by chrishall1984
there was 12 v going to it
Don’t apply a ▬ wire.
We want to find out if the new blower motor is grounded properly.
So, when you applied the 12 volts did the blower run?
If yes, jump pin A red wire to pin E purple wire.
Did the blower run?
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Thread Starter
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From: Joplin, MO
Car: 1991 Chevy Camaro Z28
Engine: L98 350 5.7L
Transmission: TH700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.23
Re: Heater Problems
Ok I jumped the red and purple wires and blower motor came on. Could I wire in a toggle switch to where the relay goes in and just use it or is there something better I can do.
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From: Joplin, MO
Car: 1991 Chevy Camaro Z28
Engine: L98 350 5.7L
Transmission: TH700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.23
Re: Heater Problems
Ok I checked the vents and there is still nothing coming out of them for some reason even with the blower motor running
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Re: Heater Problems
You may have some vermin making a nest inside, leaves collected in there.
When you had the blower out was there any carp inside? did you look or feel for anything?
When you had the blower out was there any carp inside? did you look or feel for anything?
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Re: Heater Problems
let me ask you a question...
when you turn it from cool to heat does the air go away?
when you turn it from cool to heat does the air go away?
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Car: 1991 Chevy Camaro Z28
Engine: L98 350 5.7L
Transmission: TH700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.23
Re: Heater Problems
There were no leaves or anything in there. Well there is no air at all coming out really at all anyways then while ur accelerate and drive down the road heat comes out then or cool air whatever u have it on.
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Re: Heater Problems
Are you getting air from your defrost vents?
You may just be having an issue with vacuum and the vacuum operated blend doors.
You may just be having an issue with vacuum and the vacuum operated blend doors.
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Re: Heater Problems
sounds like a couple of different problems..
first of all, the problem with the fan motor not kicking on could be your switch in the dash
secondly, when you are feeling for air coming out different places, check the defroster vents first. If you have a lack of vacuum, all the air will com out the defrosters
first of all, the problem with the fan motor not kicking on could be your switch in the dash
secondly, when you are feeling for air coming out different places, check the defroster vents first. If you have a lack of vacuum, all the air will com out the defrosters
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From: Joplin, MO
Car: 1991 Chevy Camaro Z28
Engine: L98 350 5.7L
Transmission: TH700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.23
Re: Heater Problems
That is where it is only coming out unless the car has been driving for awhile then it tries to come out the other vents
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Re: Heater Problems
ok, you have a vacumm problem.. the easiest place to check is the servo under the dash, passenger side, by the kick panel
You need to check every vacuum line, everywhere...
You need to check every vacuum line, everywhere...
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From: Joplin, MO
Car: 1991 Chevy Camaro Z28
Engine: L98 350 5.7L
Transmission: TH700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.23
Re: Heater Problems
Ok whats the easiest way to check for that and is it just a black line or is it a diffrent color. And as for the fan could it be the blower speed selector?
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From: Joplin, MO
Car: 1991 Chevy Camaro Z28
Engine: L98 350 5.7L
Transmission: TH700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.23
Re: Heater Problems
And does that have anything to do with engine vacuum because ive had to check for leaks there and there are not any. What does the servo look like do you have any pics.
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Re: Heater Problems
yeah, it very well could be
as for the vacuum line, I think it's orange... terminates into a vacuum module. get on your back in the floorboard, slide under the dash and look up... you'll see it
as for the vacuum line, I think it's orange... terminates into a vacuum module. get on your back in the floorboard, slide under the dash and look up... you'll see it
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Re: Heater Problems
I would just start under the hood.
There is a check valve coming off you TPI's upper plenum above the fuel pressure regulator. It is also where your vacuum starts from.
The line coming out of the check valve is a plastic tube going into the harness for the controls. That plastic line can easily break or split.
There is also a hose on the back side of that valve. It goes to a resivour ball located under the Evap canister on the left side of the car. You need to look from the underside to see it. Make sure its not cracked.
Also that last hose may T off to the cruise control if equiped.
There is a check valve coming off you TPI's upper plenum above the fuel pressure regulator. It is also where your vacuum starts from.
The line coming out of the check valve is a plastic tube going into the harness for the controls. That plastic line can easily break or split.
There is also a hose on the back side of that valve. It goes to a resivour ball located under the Evap canister on the left side of the car. You need to look from the underside to see it. Make sure its not cracked.
Also that last hose may T off to the cruise control if equiped.
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From: Joplin, MO
Car: 1991 Chevy Camaro Z28
Engine: L98 350 5.7L
Transmission: TH700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.23
Re: Heater Problems
how far in the harness does it go so i know how far to look down the harness
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Re: Heater Problems
There is too many people here going back and forth. I'll let the other poster who was helping handle it.
BTW, I do believe that the orange vacuum hose is to close off the outside door for MAX AC so you have no outside air coming in.
BTW, I do believe that the orange vacuum hose is to close off the outside door for MAX AC so you have no outside air coming in.
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Re: Heater Problems
that's possible.. All I said was it was the easiest one to get to
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Re: Heater Problems
Who knows, maybe if the OP follows that line and finds the fesh air door he might see a bunch of animals and nuts and berries fall out of it!
I'll still help but between two of us we are sending you in different directions.
I'll still help but between two of us we are sending you in different directions.
Thread Starter
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From: Joplin, MO
Car: 1991 Chevy Camaro Z28
Engine: L98 350 5.7L
Transmission: TH700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.23
Re: Heater Problems
Do you think that may be the problem because the air still gets warm and everthing it just doesnt blow.
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Re: Heater Problems
Thats what I was thinking, why I asked about anything behind the fan when he had it out. It would make the air flowing slower. But the blend doors switching while on and off the throttle could be due to vacuum. And defrost being default if there is no vacuum.
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From: Joplin, MO
Car: 1991 Chevy Camaro Z28
Engine: L98 350 5.7L
Transmission: TH700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.23
Re: Heater Problems
So there could be no vacuum but would that have anything to do with heater core
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Car: 89 rs, 86 Trans Am
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Transmission: RS-T5... Trans Am 700r4
Re: Heater Problems
I bet it's mostly a vacuum problem... If he can hot wire the blower motor, start the car, and feel the air coming out the defroster vents, then He should first fix the vacuum problem before he starts fretting about a plugged up evap
I thought his problem might be similar to what I have with my car, but it's not...
you mind taking a look at this?
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/inte...ater-core.html
I thought his problem might be similar to what I have with my car, but it's not...
you mind taking a look at this?
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/inte...ater-core.html
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From: Mesquite, Texas
Car: 89 rs, 86 Trans Am
Engine: RS-V6... Trans Am-LG4
Transmission: RS-T5... Trans Am 700r4
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Re: Heater Problems
This poster seemed to be having similar issues with the vents changing.
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/cool...-problems.html
But was unable to resolve that issue. Maybe you will have different results
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/cool...-problems.html
But was unable to resolve that issue. Maybe you will have different results
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From: Mooresville NC
Car: LOWERED ♦ CRIMSON METALFLAKE
Engine: ► 400 KUBES ◄
Transmission: 765R4
Axle/Gears: EATON POSI 4.56
This Thread Is Hot Air
Originally Posted by chrishall1984
Could I wire in a toggle switch to where the relay goes…….
I hear ya about no air from the vents even with the blower running.
As the other posters said it’s a vacuum problem.
So now, the electrical problem.
Gain access to the back of the HVAC panel, put the HVAC selector in the NORM position, and probe the brown wire going to the blower speed selector.
Is there power there?
If no, probe the brown wire going to the mode selector.
Is there power there?
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After The Fourth Barrel Roll I Lost Control Of The Car
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From: Mooresville NC
Car: LOWERED ♦ CRIMSON METALFLAKE
Engine: ► 400 KUBES ◄
Transmission: 765R4
Axle/Gears: EATON POSI 4.56
This Thread Is Hot Air
Re: post #37, the measurements must be taken with the ignition key in the RUN position, if you did it that way, with the ignition key still in the RUN position probe both sides of the HTR A/C fuse.
Is there power on both sides?
If yes, there is a bad connection from the wire that exit’s the fuse block and goes to the Mode Selector.
If no, you have a bad Fusible Link near the starter solenoid, or the wiring to it.
Fusible Links usually look like a one inch plastic rod in line with the wire.
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Happy Racing!
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After The Fourth Barrel Roll I Lost Control Of The Car
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Is there power on both sides?
If yes, there is a bad connection from the wire that exit’s the fuse block and goes to the Mode Selector.
If no, you have a bad Fusible Link near the starter solenoid, or the wiring to it.
Fusible Links usually look like a one inch plastic rod in line with the wire.
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Happy Racing!
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After The Fourth Barrel Roll I Lost Control Of The Car
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