car starts if i jump the selenoid there is no ecm ripped out how do i bypass the vats without a ecm

 

If you've removed the ECM, I assume you've went to an aftermarket carb and vac-advanced distributor (no fuel injectors) - in which case you don't need to bypass the VATS, you just need to get the starter enable relay, and provide a constant ground to the black with yellow striped wire.

 

I have converted my 91 RS to carb, but kept the ecm in tact for the purpose of speedo and tq converter lockup purposes. The VATS is not bypassed or anything, and the car starts up and runs just fine. I do, however, have a short somewhere. When using an ohm meter, I probe the purple starter wire and ground, I get continuity. I removed the wire from the bulkhead connector on the driver side firewall and still get ground continuity at the bulkhead on that circuit. I'm curious if this has something to do with the VATS still being functional, or possibly the ignition switch itself is an issue, or am I way off here.

Everything else works normal. I discovered this problem because the fusible link on the starter from the alternator keeps popping. Any advice or guidance is appreciated.

 

VATS is only a disabling device.
All it does is disrupt power from Ign switch to starter so it would play no part in giving you a short

 

Genopsyde - That purple starter wire will have ground on it until the key is turned. It's weird to think about I know, but alot of what "should be" 12v+ wires have a ground on them when not being used - it still baffles my mind sometimes, but that's the case with many otherwise "positive" wires.

BTW - the ECM has nothing to do with the speedo working. And unless your using some kind of switch connected into the ECM that you are manually turning on/off, it will NOT control your lockup on it's own without the computerized sensors and computerized distributor being in place.

 

Are you 100% positive about this? You're right about it not making much sense.

Let me break down some of my troubleshooting from yesterday and you tell me what you think. I d/c the negative from the battery and probed the cable and negative terminal with a digital volt meter. It read 11.75 volts, again, this is between the negative post of the battery and the disconnected battery cable. I removed all of the fusible link connections from the starter and the reading went to .05. I then reconnected the fusible link wires one at a time, and no matter which one it was, the 11.74 returned.

This is pretty much where I am now.

as for the speedo, I assumed that since the VSS wiring goes to the ecm, and then to the speedo, that the ecm was needed for it to operate. I'm also aware of the tq converter lockup situation and how to wire in a toggle switch.

Thanks in advance.

 

ok, i was checking that incorrectly on the battery negative and negative cable, that reading is normal, verified with another vehicle. I disconnected the wire for the alternator from the starter and removed it completely. I then ran a new wire from the back of the alternator to the + side of the battery w/ an inline fuse (30a). Fuse popped when I started the car. I have already done the test w/ the volt meter and removing the fuses one by one and nothing changes. I'm at a total loss here.

 

Try looking at this for some help!!How to disable PASSLOCK II Security System on a 2002 Oldsmobile Alero @ Car Forums.mht

 

do you know howto bypass the vats on a 90 camaro rs 3.1