Hello everyone.
This is my first post and need some help identifying this thing. It was mounted on the firewall in back of the coil somewhere. The wires seem to have gotten hot and faded a little. I have some electrical problems and I can't find anything on this in the manual. Seems like my Iroc doesn't want to start after driving it in hot weather. Its been going on for years. I replaced the starter, alternator, and battery twice and that didn't fix it.
I appreciate any opinions and suggestions.
Thanks.


'88 Camaro IROC, 5.0 TPI, Auto transmission

 

I'll have a stab:

Not sure, but that looks like the connector that supplies power to the high-speed blower relay.

No hot start - does it try to crank, but really slowly - might be heat soak from the exhaust into the starter. Does it die while driving - maybe ignition module.

 

thats part of the ac/fan blower crap. and i second the heat soak on the starter. my stock one did it when i put on the headers. switched to a high torque mini starter and havent had a problem since.

 

No, it doesn't crank over, no starter sounds, when its that hot and it doesn't die while driving. I also changed the ignition module long ago and recently when I replaced the distributor...didn't help.
I have to take a chance when turning it off cause it doesn't happen all the time (happens 80% of the time). For ten years + the dash voltmeter would go down very low suddenly and come back up while driving.
When it doesn't start the voltmeter shows voltage to be low but thats even after changing the starter, alternator, and battery. After about 45 min-1 hour "something" I guess cools off and the car will start easily, like normal..and run well. I also changed the distributor and fuel pump recently.

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If that can happen on several starters then I will try a mini high-torque one.


thanks

 

sounds like text book heatsoak to me. try wrapping the exhaust, or wrapping the starter in a reflective heat shield. or spend the money on a good quality mini starter.

 

Wow! Sounds like thats the way to go coming from everyone.

A high-torque mini-starter...and the wrapping exhust and/or starter.

The fan always came on well and the air conditioner hasn't been turned on inat least 20 yrs..., I turned it on maybe 10 times since I bought it in '89. So I guess that part has nothing to do about it.

Thanks

 

go out on a limb hear but your car could be running lean maybe a bad o2 or cleaner for the injectors or a vacum leak and its causeing your exhaust to get alot hotter that it should causeing heat soak try wraping the exhaust around the starter

 

i forgot to ask...any particular brand mini starter? The engine is stock...'88 Camaro IROC, 5.0 TPI, Auto transmission. I will pay the extra bucks to fix this problem.

EDIT: Just seen Summit has a big list of them...

 

I use a powermaster with no problems. its got a clockable base mount. so you can rotate the starter to pretty much any position you want it to get it away from the exhaust.

the fan always comming on with the key is a common thing in these cars. a PO probably had the fan switch go out and just grounded out the signal wire so it comes on with the key. it is the dual fan or single fan set up?

 

Darn!, I forgotten all about the fan setup. Long ago it had the dual fan setup but I took the passenger side one out cause of replacing the radiator if I remember right. Never did put it back in cause I broke one of my mounting arms. Engine temps always stayed about the same...but maybe a little higher...which would be "normal" cause the engine always ran on the cooler side.


EDIT: By the way. I found a better pic of that part I'm wondering about from this forum...is this a fan relay as mention before?...the black thing on top....that looks kinda melted.

 

HVAC inline connector. Wont cause the car to not run

The 12v side often melts as pre 90 cars had it external of the connector for some reason. At some point the PO replaced with the wing nut pictured. The goop is stock to keep moisture out. Sure is nasty, but works

 

IF THE CAR IS ALL STOCK THEN THE STARTER SHOULD NOT BE GETTING TOO HOT FROM STOCK EXHAUST MANIFOLDS, I HAD THE SAME PROBLEM ON A 79 CHEN PICK UP BUT ONLY AFTER I PUT HEADERS ON IT. BUT TRY THE HEAT WRAP OR SHIELD FIRST ITS CHEAPER THAN A NEW STARTER....AGAIN

 

yea, that makes good sense. I'll do the heat sheild/wrap before getting a starter. I'll try it before it gets too cool. Once the weather gets cooler I won't be having the problem. I can't drive my Camaro during the summer.

Thanks for all the help everyone.

 

My car did the same thing with stock exhaust and starter so it can happen. The solenoid ended up having a large crack in it and would not start after driving for a bit. I replaced it and haven't had a problem with hot starts since.

 

I'm going to get the wrap instead of the shield in case I have to get a new starter soon and the shield won't fit the new mini high-torque one.

One other important thing...
Did it also show low voltage when it didn't start?

My voltmeter will sometimes jump from normal to low, around 9v I think, while I'm driving and at idle. It will stay low for several minutes and then go up to normal. When its low it will be just above the little line between the 13 and 8. Its been doing that for years even after I replaced the starter, alternator, and battery. It has never died on me while driving though. But it does show low voltage when it doesn't start. It will usually start between 45 minutes to an hour when it acts up. By the time the tow truck driver got there he just turned the ignition and it started...twice! So now I'll just wait...

 

you might have a wire shorting out to the frame or something. thats what i would start looking for while you are under the car wraping the heat shield tape

 

Whoa hang on dude - new info there. When it does this, get a multimeter onto the actual battery terminals - not the connectors - and see if it reads 12V whilst your dash gauge reads low - bet it does.

You've replaced all the big stuff to no avail. Now it sounds like an intermittent cable problem - old or corroded battery terminal connectors, bad connection to the start solenoid, or bad main ground connections. Ie the batt is not connected to the car reliably.

Before you get into heat shields and wrap etc, fully explore this avenue - it might turn out to be a cheap fix.

 

Good idea,
I was thinking it could be a switch/relay or something like that (so many) but then I never been too good with electrical stuff. I have an old multimeter which I'll carry with me from now on. I'll also jack up the car and check underneath for anything loose as mentioned.

thanks for everyones help...I keep posting the progress so it may help others with the same problem.

 

I recommend grabbing a factory service manual. Shows everything, where it is, and what it does. You just have to do a bit of searching in the book.