86IROCer

OK, I have tried searching for about 30 minutes now, and there seems to be problems and solutions except for the problem I am having. I recently had a mini starter rebuilt for replacement of my stock starter that went bad. The problem is that it seems to stay engage after it is started. I have talked to a few people and they mentioned a possible issue sine it is an HEI ignition!? Is there a simple diode fix for this? I have been fighting with this whole starter issue for about 1.5 months now and I am just ready for it to be finished already. Any ideas is GREATLY appreciated!

86IROCer

OK, so I'm thinking now maybe it just needs shimmed? Theres no reason it should take more than one, is there?

heat seeker

iTrader: (5)

However many shims needed to keep it from binding, mine only needed one.

92RS4US

I just put in a new powermaster mini starter and I had to use both the shims provided in the kit. First time I ever had to shim a starter...ever. But it works great now. Try shimming it if that don't work change out the starter with another one see if it does the same thing. Just because it's rebuilt doesn't mean it's right...or new for that matter.

t-top havoc

iTrader: (3)

By saying " stays engaged " does that mean it keeps wanting to turn the motor? [ Continuously powered & engaged ]
Or is it the starter gear ( bendex ) doesn't retract into the solenoid?

Could be a weak // broken return spring in the solenoid.

Make sure all the wires are correct & not contacting anything.

heat seeker

iTrader: (5)

I think that's what he means......not retracting, therefore staying engaged.

86IROCer

Sorry, I did mean not retracting. It was making a noise similiar to when you try to double start a vehicle. So now I have two shims in place and as I was testing to see if it would work, the car shuts off. There is no power to the fuel pump. It does not prime when I turn the key. I realize I should know this, but do any of the big wires to the starter have an effect on the fuel pump? I have to cut and crimp one of the wires that burnt to my header. I just want to make sure that is mearly a coincidence...Thanks for all the replys so far. It is appreciated.

heat seeker

iTrader: (5)

Sounds like you shorted the hot lead on your header tube, this will just burn up the starter. Get a new starter and check your fuses, you probably blew one under the kick panel.

86IROCer

well to add to the weirdness, I went home yesterday and diagnosed the systems with a hightech paperclip. After I was finished with that, I decided to try thr fuel pump pne more time, and it fired tight up. And has fired up everytime since doing that. Back to the original problem. I have almost 1/4 inch worth of shim in and there is friction occuring between the starter and the flywheel. I looked in as best I could with it still bolted in. It clears by millimeters. I don't know if I should continue to add shims or if I am chasing the wrong problem now.

heat seeker

iTrader: (5)

I think you're chasing the wrong problem. The shims are required if the the starter gear is not engaging/dis-engaging properly or binding on the flywheel. It sounds like that was never your problem.

Have you been able to watch the starter while someone starts the car? That might give you a better idea of what's going on.

86IROCer

Actually I did do that on friday. It seem's that the gear is too long. It rubs the flywheel when the gear in the resting stat. I noticed that the stock starter gear retracts back past the mounting bolts when they key is left off whereas the mini starter has a fixed gear that sticks 1/2 to 3/4 inch past the mounting bolts. I have taken it back to the place I had it rebuilt to see if they can find a shorter gear to put on it. If not, I guess I'll have to sell that starter and find one that does work. Bummer...
Thank you all for helping me with this problem (even though it's not fixed yet). I do appreciate the help.

heat seeker

iTrader: (5)

Go get an LT1 (mini) starter from your local auto parts and you'll maybe need one shim, that's it, problem solved. I've had them on my car for 7 yrs without any problems.

TraviZ

iTrader: (2)

I made this video a few months back when I was diagnosing my issue. The camera perfectly captured what an improperly shimmed starter did to me. I know this is not your issue but it gives you an idea of what the distance of the gear to the flexplate should be and who knows what else it may help you with. This is also a high torque mini starter made by hitachi.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QRs04Ks-xNY

92RS4US

there are shims that you can use to change the length of the drive gear, one between the mounting block and the starter, and one inside the block where the drive gear goes. I had a mini starter in my nova that did the same thing. I wound up putting that shim in the mounting block to space the drive gear away so it wouldn't hit the flexplate when running. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-829000/

are you using this style of starter?

chevymec

iTrader: (5)

This. I had to do the same for my starter staying engaged.

GTAman

iTrader: (2)

i'm having this same problem too! i have the same hitachi mini starter. i put the both shims in and it's still riding the ring gear. what do i have to do?