Cool with any luck and if i have money from my check this friday ill pay you soon!

 

Lou do you have any left? I want this but cant send payment till 10 days from now if you will have some left by then send me a pm with payment info and ill send it out asap thanks
Alex

 

Hi Alex,

no problem, I made a huge batch this time so that nobody can say that they didn't get theirs this time around.
I will PM you my info.

Thanks
Lou

 

Got it yesterday, Lou. Installed it today. The LEDs don't look as good as the incandescents did but I expect they will look better at night. I'll check as soon as it gets dark.

 

Awesome, that was a very quick installation.

Now, since you say you have LEDs, I assume you have an adjustable flasher. You want to slow it down until you can see the last bulb light up and stay on before the turn signal turns off.

 

I only have the LEDs behind the bat. The rest are regular.

 

Ah, I see, I thought you meant all LEDs, sorry.

I would recommend either modifying your current flasher (which is of cylindrical shape and usually attached with a clip to the fuse box) with needlenose pliers to flash slower .... or if you break it, you can always buy a CHEAP adjustable flasher at Autozone. I hear that they cost only $12 nowadays (Dorman brand) and are a direct plug-in, no splicing required.

Lou

 

I can't find the one Dabesiv was talking about online. I will search for the flasher mod and try that.

 

I was wrong, he found it at Pep Boys.
The 552 part number does not resolve to a Dorman brand for me. Instead, it pulls up a different brand .
This one will work for incandescent bulbs or a mix with LEDs but not all LEDs.

Lou

 

That's a fixed one like I have. Could be the same or too fast or too slow. Do you know if the no-load variable ones they make for LEDs can control incandescent? I'll figure it out. Oh and it does look better at night.

 

They say in the description that the 552 is adjustable. Are you sure yours does not have any little control on it?

The tail lights do look better at night but the 3rd bulb still does not light up enough.

The no-load flashers can control any reasonable load (hence the name: no-load) up to a given limit, incandescent or LED, doesn't matter.

 

I ASSUMED no-load meant the speed wasn't load dependent. I will look further into the 552 but there is going to be some math and research involved as it says 800mv max load. Now I need to find out what the load is of the different lamps. I'll let you know what I find.

 

You assumed right, "no-load" implies that the device is not load driven.
The 800 mV "max load" specification probably refers to the saturation voltage of the load which most LED replacement bulbs do not satisfy, however having a regular lightbulb in the system would fix that.

 

I have six dual bulbs in there and two dual LEDS. I am actually considering opening up my stock flasher and testing to see if I can slow it down with a resistor. Cheap, quick, variable (depending on the resistor) and a challenge...lol

EDIT: I want you to know Lou that this is in no way a reflection on your product. It works great. I love it. I know you based the timing sequence on a common flasher and I believe the factory flasher is controlled by a capacitor which are notorious for their variances even among the exact same components. As much as 30% I've read. Add to that any lighting changes and many car's flash rate will be different. I added both LEDs in the middle (which shouldn't have an impact) but also dual sockets in the corners changing the normal load on the flasher.

 

im in let me know what i need to do

 

Sent you a PM.

 

Hi Guys, Im having different problem but maybe someone can point me in the right direction.
I have a check engine light that comes on after about 10 minutes of driving, two shops have scanned my 1991 Firebird 3.1l auto both say the data link is not communicating.
I called the local E.C.M rebuilder (python injectors,Stanton,CA) they said data link problem likely a fuse, light is likely due to "spider cracks in P.C.M". that open up after warm up.
the car failed smog test yesterday HC and Co2 levels @ 10time allowable.

Question has anyone else run into these problems and did rebuilding ecm alone take care of it?

 

Word of advice: stop spamming the boards and littering threads and create your own topic if you have a legitimate issue. This is NOT a good way to make friends (on any discussion board) and is likely to get you banned by the admins.

A second word of advice: do not trust whatever businesses tell you, often they have no clue what they are talking about in the first place. Chances are that you don't need a new ECM. But that is a discussion for ANOTHER thread, not mine.

Lou

 

Hey bigbad Im going to pm you my Phone Number so you can send me your info so i can buy a set,.

 

If I got the brand name wrong I apologize, I was going off memory. I'm out of town right now but once I'm home I'll double check and also check to see if I can adjust it

 

It's pretty late here and we will be heading to bed soon.
Why don't you PM me your preferred payment method? I can accept Direct Transfer via PayPal (no credit cards, sorry) or I will happily take a Money Order.

PM me for address (mailing or email).

Lou

 

I sure hope you can adjust it. That would solve your trouble.

 

Just an update Lou. I managed to find the flasher or whatever it is called. It was in the courtesy panel location by the console under the dash. Anyhow, when I opened it up it wasn't a capacitor at all but some kind of bimetal thingy. I figured out how to change its speed by bending one of the tabs inside. I slowed it down to about 4 seconds between flashes to check the outside lights. They were still dim compared to the rest. When I installed the STS, I noticed that the outside bulbs and sockets on my car were for dual filaments, but when I looked inside the socket there was only one connection bar installed in the center to make contact with the bulb. It must have come that way from the factory. I installed a second bar in each and used that with the STS. I think what may be happening is the second bar controls the smaller of the 2 filaments that are in the bulb. That may be why my outside lights aren't quite as bright as my inside lights. Next time I pull the back apart I am going to reverse the wires and see if that resolves my problem.

 

I will be checking the flasher today to see about an adjuster, I actually don't need it, mine is working perfectly, but for those who need it fixed I will take a look. If there is no adjuster, you can add one easily by taking off the flashers cover, removing the resistor and replacing it with a variable resistor.

 

Hey Lou I sent you a pm a while back saying that I can make a payment for a unit but I guess you didn't see it, but if you're still sending them out tell me what to do and you'll have the money asap

 

Howdy back to Vancouver!
Sorry, not sure where your PM ended up because the last one from you (from 7/12) mentions peeling clear coat but no STS payment.

But I am ready for you. If you wanted to do PayPal, I will PM you my ID and instructions.

Regards
Lou

 

Just so everyone knows, the electronic flasher from Pep Boys is not adjustable but the timing on it is not bad

 

Hey Lou. Well the adjustable speed flasher finally came in, it was backordered. This is what my final mod looks like.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=brf6a...ature=youtu.be

I replaced the single end sockets with these duals.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SMP-S502

Added 2 sockets behind taillight centerpiece and used these 30 LED lamps.

http://www.superbrightleds.com/cgi-b...15x-x12x19.htm

And used this no-load adjustable flasher.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/HFM-FF552NL

I am happy with the result. Thanks for the great STS product.

 

I did have a question about connecting the front turn signals though. Would that cause the brake lights to be lit on both sides while the turn signal is flashing? So like if you're sitting at a red light waiting to make a left turn.

 

That looks nice, great job.

The optional front turn signal inputs (F) only affect the turning on of the bulbs where it does not sequence them (like in case of the turn signals) but instead makes them turn on all at once. It does not affect anything else.

The functionality of your brake lights and turn signals is given by the wiring under the dash. The STS unit only affects how the light bulbs turn on. It does not have anything to do with why the tail light is turning on or for how long.

 

I hope you didn't actually order those $10 sockets from Summit when the STS instructions have this written into them:


"If you haven't already obtained two new dual-filament right-angle sockets, you can find them at these places:
· AutoZone - $4.99 (usually not stocked in stores)
· PepBoys - $5.97 (usually stocked)
· RockAuto.com - $6.83 (online only)

The brand and part number is Dorman #85867."

 

Even with shipping, the price per socket from Rock Auto (with total order of 2 sockets) comes to $7.22. That sure isn't bad. It beats paying $10 + S&H at Summit.

So for future reference, if anybody needs sockets, check out Rock Auto, AutoZone, Pep Boys or even Advanced Autoparts.

 

My AZ doesn't stock them and it wasn't worth driving there and back twice to save 10 bucks...well not to me anyway. I already had an order ready for Summit so I just added them in.

 

I guess I could have saved $5 through them. Maybe next time.

 

I am a little surprised that Summit Racing has so much markup on this part in the first place. Usually they have pretty customer-friendly prices.

 

Me too. These were exact replacements I am assuming the others are too.

 

That's too bad, sorry to hear.
How about the one from Amazon? Has anybody tried it? It has the same part number as the one from Pep Boys but claims to be adjustable. For $12, I am a little skeptical.

And $37 for an adjustable load-independent flasher is also pretty high. I finished working on my own adjustable flasher and it works flawlessly. Yay!
I should be able to offer it for around $25 if anybody is interested.

It is a direct plug-in flasher with an extra ground wire. No splicing, soldering or crimping necessary. Just plug it in (and attach the ground wire). Also, it is fully adjustable while plugged in (not like the other flashers that have the adjustment on the bottom, facing the connector, so you have to remove the flasher to change its speed).

Lou

 

I finally got my camaro tails together, not finished but ive got the basics out the way. Now time to install the leds and getting it blinking at the pace I want.

 

Cab you add me to the list? also can i get a vid of them on a car?

 

Sure thing, you are on my list now. When you have the money, let me know. You can mail me a Money Order or we could do a PayPal transfer (from your bank account, not from a credit card).

There are some videos on my STS page.
And there are plenty more videos on YouTube, if you search for STS or "sequential turn signals".

Regards
Lou

 

Are there any more of these available?

 

Sure thing.
PM me for details on shipping, payment, installation instructions etc.

 

Those lights seem like the way to go, can you put led bulbs in or does that requier some addtional work. In any case I'll buy a set with or with out the led's.

 

You SURE can use LEDs.
Howeve, as it applies any time you use LEDs for turn signals, you would need a new flasher since the old one does not work with LED bulbs.

I am making an adjustable flasher that allows the use of LEDs. Once it is tested out, you can get one from me too.

PM me for payment, shipping, installation instructions etc and we can get you hooked up with a unit to make your car look cool!

What color is your convertible, btw? Mine's black, getting a new coat of paint in a week or two (depending on weather).

Lou

 

Car is bright red send me a PayPal invoice so I can get the $$$ to you.

 

Im interested in a set but would like to know how hard is it to put them in? Also do you have any videos of them on a Camaro.

Thanks

 

CaliChevyLover posted a video of how he customized his Z28 tail lights with LED bulbs and it looks pretty sweet:

 

just so you know, with my experience so far, the LEDs look better because they are red and fairly bright, but the incandescent seem to light the lenses more but that could vary depending on what bulbs you use too. Also with my setup the LEDs went through the whole sequence far too fast so I have the inner 2 bulbs as LEDs and the last one is incandescent and the timing looks great.

 

I know the thread is kinda dead, but I thought I'd post a video of my tail lights for people.

 

Great, thanks for the video!
And I hope this thread is far from dead, I still have plenty of pre-made units on the shelf. (Dozens of people begged me to make some and then they didn't get one)