I'm trying to get power to my car but when I turn the key I get nothing at all. My grounds are in properly as I can see 12.07 volts by connecting the positive terminal on the battery to all the ground wires with a multimeter. I'm thinking there must be something in my ignition causing this. I checked the fuse box and notice the two IGN (ignition) fuses werent in the hole for it. The same was true for the BAT (battery) fuses were not in the hole.
Could these be the reason I'm not seeing any power?

Thank you

 

Here is a picture of the fuse box. thanks

 

Your test just checks the ground you were touching at the time and the positive battery terminal. See if you get 12 volts from your battery neg ( or body ground ) to your starter battery cable post.

The first place I'd look is the positive connection @ the battery and the Cable/harness wiring @ the starter. If they appear OK I'd then verify that the fuseable links are still good. I'm not sure where they are on the your harness - but they are all probably right near the starter connection. Probe for 12 volts BEFORE & AFTER the fuseable link !

If those are OK you will need to probe the power feeds to the fusebox,.... if they have - and are sending - power properly the next place to check is the "ignition box" that's mounted on the base of the steering column.

 

If i test for power by checking the starter's power cable that runs directly from the positive terminal i can see its getting 12 volts. I still see power at the fusible lins as well.

When i test for power at the junction box in the driver side firewall i see theres power there but its not 12 volts on all the connectors. The volts range from 2.5 volts to .335 to .670 volts on all the connectors. Theres also a lot of this black grease stuck inside and outside the large cable connector. Not sure if its supposed to be there or not.

I also get no power when i test the fuse box. Im grounding the black wire on the multimeter and touching the red one to the fuses and still see nothing. Usually the meter will give me a reading of zero or .001.

Any idea what i should try next?

thanks for the help - its greatly appreciated!

 

would i be better of piocking up a test light instead of the multmeter? The one i have is a cheap one that gives mixed readings

 

Check VATS

 

If there was an issue with the VATS, would it still prevent power from making it to the fuse block?

 

Hmmmm I don't think so but possibly, maybe as like an anti hot wiring function. I had the same situation as you and it turned out to be God forsaken VATS. I never did check my fuse box power current though.

 

What year is this car ?? IIRC the later cars didn't use a power junction block. When probing the ORANGE wires they should all read 12 volts at all times. When probing PINK wires they shoudl all read 12 volts WHEN THE KEY IS IN RUN.





Not all fuses will be "hot at all times". Most fuses will not get any power at all until the key is turned to RUN. When the fuse is removed 1 side will be live and the other will be dead. ( probe both sides to figure out where live is)


If that's true than your problem is somewhere between the starter post and the fusebox. The list of possible areas is the actual wires, the "EYE" connectors at the end of the wires, the fuseable links, C100, and the fusebox;

Not sure why your 92 has a junction block ? Not a VATS problem IMO.

 

The car is a 92. Here is a pic of the junction block, or what i thought it was called.

 

[quote=



Not all fuses will be "hot at all times". Most fuses will not get any power at all until the key is turned to RUN. When the fuse is removed 1 side will be live and the other will be dead. ( probe both sides to figure out where live is)




If that's true than your problem is somewhere between the starter post and the fusebox. The list of possible areas is the actual wires, the "EYE" connectors at the end of the wires, the fuseable links, C100, and the fusebox;

Not sure why your 92 has a junction block ? Not a VATS problem IMO.


[/quote]

Im not seeing any power on any of the fuses, on either side in the fuise box.

Im getting power at the starter power wire, and the relays in the pic. I think one is the fuel pump relay.

Im also getting power at this wire connector but im not sure what it goes to.

thanks for the help1

 

When you say you "get nothing" when you turn the key, does that mean it doesn't crank or "nothing as in there's no headlights, tail/stop lights, radio etc. besides not cranking?

 

no headlights,radio or anything.

 

The relays are on a separate circuit, coming off of the small wire at the positive side of the battery that runs to the junction block behind the passenger's side headlights. And that "mystery" connector, as was said in another thread, is the oil pressure sender connector. That also gets constant hot power (off of the fuel pump fuse, which runs off of the junction block).

Check to make sure the connections on the starter are CLEAN and TIGHT. Everything you've described runs off of the fusible links at the starter, the headlights, fuse panel, etc. If even one of those ring terminals is corroded, none of the rest will work either because that one ring is sucking up all of the juice from the battery.

 

im going to check those fusible links again. i should see power to all of them right?

thanks

 

Be better to disconnect everything and take a wire brush to the rings. That way you can see any possible damage from corrosion or what have you, and get rid of the crud on all of the rings as well as make sure the connection is clean and tight.

Easiest thing to do would be to check for power at the RED wire in the alternator connector... Direct link to the starter.

 

Here is a pic of the fusible links. the two at the bottom, i believe connect to the starter post as the wires route to the starter, however one of the red wires is broken where it should probably attach to the post in the back of the alternator.

The fusible link at the top has three wires, one runs to the ECM, the other two go to the fuse junction box on the driver side firewall.

The PO made a mess of the harness and figuring out where every thing goes is a nightmare. I made the mistake of buying the car and immediately ripping it all apart to restore it before testing everything to see if it works. Been busting my a$$ for a year straight learning, rebuilding and painting everything and now i've been at this roadblock for 3 weeks.

thanks for your help!

 

Finally got power!
Thanks Everyone for your help.

Now that I got power I have an alarm sound coming from this box under the dash that's in the attached pic. I also can't shut the side marker lights and hatch light off. I took that box out and the radio shut off.
Anyone know what that box is for and why my lights are staying on?
Thanks again.

 

jn

 

Embarressing! The headlights were on which caused that alarm sound so thats all set. I can now get power to the starter, ignition, headlights, cargo bay and dome light, etc..

Now the radio isnt getting power since i pulled that alarm box out, even after i plugged it back in. I checked the fuse and its fine. Theres no power to the fuse box for the radio, fan and a few other things?

Any idea whats causing that?

thanks