My Chiltons Manual is worthless.
The one just above the 15a fuse.
Thank You

 

This is the under hood/engine diagram for the car under your user name, I don't see but one relay being for the fuel pump. I can't tell wire colors from your pic......

 

The only thing I see missing in that diagram is the large purple neutral safety switch wire coming of of the gear selection switch. I've noticed mine has been cut in to in order to attempt to install a kill switch. I may have some wire to either fix or run new.
That relay is for the fuel pump. You can't tell from the outside but when I opened it up ,what a mess.First I want to ask do they make black Dialectic grease because this one had it all over the connectors. Any way I bought a new one and cleaned up the connection.

Side note = The reason I'm asking and doing this is because it seems I have two intermittent gremlins working against me. Part of the problem was solved with a new coil. Hopefully this relay is the other.If not the neutral safety switch is next.

 

Those early style relays were filled with some kind of black sealer
Are also very prone to the connector wires loosing the insulation and causing faults or shorts

 

Since the neutral safety switch is inside the car, The purple wire in question is shown in this diagram;




As vetteoz posted, The black crap is more a sealer than a dielectric grease....... There is a black electrical grease on the market, But it's used on aluminum AC wiring inside circuit breaker panels to keep the aluminum from corroding......


I had my share of gremlins in my truck, The passenger side looked like this as well;




Good Luck !

 

So the problem is an intermittent stalling at a light. Each time it stalled it would start right back up until a few days ago it stalled in downtown traffic and would not start, the cars auxiliary setting was working fine but when you tried to start it there was nothing. No crank, no clicking. Nothing. Just dead..I had it towed home. I checked a few basic items then went to the coil. I pulled off one of the wire connectors at a time and touched a test light to one prong at a time while a friend tried to start it. Each time the car would start to crank. I figured the test light was completing a circuit by offering a ground. I replaced the coil and the car ran nicely so I figured I had found and fixed the problem.
I saw a relay tucked behind some wires that was in the same condition as the ones above. I pulled it out and looked at it for a minute then set it down and going to wrap the showing wires a little later. They were not touching so I put it in a good location. Was on my way to Oreilles and it stalled twice at the stop lights so I thought it was the really after all I did just touch it. The car has not stalled since then but it’s only been a day. Honestly the problem seems to be electrical to me but I replaced the relay anyway.
If it stalls again I'm going to change the ignition switch and get a better look at the neutral safety switch. I might replace that too.
It’s extremely scary when it dies at a light in traffic and there is no where to push the car to get it out of the way. It’s worth it to me to through a part or two at it.
Thanks for all of the replies.

 

That was before I cut it all out, The blob on the passenger side was bigger !

The truck came with a 4.3 TPI, The OP had a "speed shop" install the 502 crate, They butchered up the harness and left plug connectors hanging all over the place. I was afraid something would short and burn the truck to the ground, I spent three weekends daylight to dusk with a diagram and cutters in hand rip'n it all out and re-wiring what I needed.

I ended with a five gallon bucket nearly full of wires and a nicely trimmed down re-loomed harness...... Yeah, There were a few nightmares over this one......

Looks like I'll be doing the same with my GTA since I'm installing a carb 355......

 

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