Good morning all,

Please forgive my post, I know there are a lot of posts on this subject already but I've read through the ones I can find and I'm even more confused.

I have a 1985 IROC. When I purchased the car, it had an aftermarket Grant steering wheel, and the horn didn't work. I have since swapped out the wheel with another Grant one, but didn't bother fixing the horn at that time.

Now, I have another issue. Neither turn signal will stay on for very long. In a separate post, I said something about the turn signal not cancelling, but that was wrong - in fact, the issue is the opposite, they cancel too fast. One way was worse than the other (left, if memory serves me correctly) but for both, you can turn on the turn signal and the slightest movement of the wheel would shut it back off. I read someplace - perhaps this forum, maybe another - that the cancel cam was probably broken.

So, ideally, now that I've got the steering column apart I'd like to fix the turn signal issue and the horn. The problem is...I have no idea what I'm doing.

See the attached pics. The cancel cam is obviously broken, so no doubt I'll replace that. Everything else inside *looks* okay to me, but I really don't know what I'm looking for. Both turn signals come on and work, so I think the switch is okay...but I'm not certain. I posted some pictures of it in case something stands out.

As for the horn, I have the Grant instructions but was hoping someone could look at the column pick and see if anything else needs to be fixed/replaced/checked in regards to the horn? Thanks in advance.

 

That SHOULD do it, assuming that the piece that mates with the broken-off part of the white piece, isn't also broken. Can't see enough of it in the pics to tell for sure.

You can see part of it in the other 2 pics: that copper looking piece at about 1:30 to the steering shaft and about 1" away, should be mounted in another plastic piece with a "bayonet" lug (like a turn signal light bulb) which engages the slot in the white plastic thing; and there should be a wire that goes down into there, with a spring that holds the copper brush pushed out against the slip ring on the white plastic piece. Then, there should be a large Belleville washer that when pushed, contacts those 4 little brass contacts on the other side of the white piece.

I think that in EVERY SINGLE aftermarket steering wheel installations I have ever seen, that stuff is farkled, left out, laying in pieces broken, etc.; apparently the people who find that sort of thing "attractive" (I don't personally) are also incapable of reading instructions or paying attention to what they're doing, and the FIRST THING THEY DO when taking the column apart, is to destroy all that stuff.

[MrSpock]Humans. A fascinating species, but highly illogical.[/MrSpock]

The problem with the turn signal switch probably involves that piece of metal held on by that Phillips head screw. A totally weenie idiotic design, but I guess it's what we're stuck with. Probably would work right (or at least, as "right" as it ever does) if you just tightened the screw. A new switch will fix that though, and since it's SO CHEEEEEEEEEP and you're already there anyway, might as well go ahead and renew it, since the plastic the screw bites into might already be stripped out from everything wallowing around in there for however long.

 

I didn't post this picture earlier, but this is the "additional" stuff that came with my steering wheel.

I'm not sure where the spring goes, though - the Grant instructions don't mention it:

http://www.grantproducts.com/files/i...524-00-01a.pdf

 

Sorry, can't tell you too much about that; I avoid those things. I stick with stock ones.

 

I found another thread on this forum that had these links:

http://www.moderndaymuscle.com/inc/sdetail/635

http://www.moderndaymuscle.com/inc/sdetail/12331

But...I'm not sure how these things are connected versus the parts I have.

 

I'll speak specifically to a OE setup and I think it will still help, at least with the Turn Signals, but not 100% sure about the horn. The cancel cam also connects the horn, that's what that white straw (for lack of a better term) is on the new cancel cam you have. On the back of the cancel cam, opposite side of the straw, you will see some little nubs/bumps. These nubs cancel the turn signal by contacting one of the two metal springs in the turn signals (at the 12 oclock and the 7 oclock positions). My best guess is either the wrong cancel cam or perhaps your steering wheel is not set to center and therefore puts the cancel cam way to close to the spring, but that would affect one turn signal only and it would seem that the other takes more of a turn to cancel (if the steering wheel is off center). If both cancel with the same degree of turn, I'd suspect either the wrong turn signal switch or the wrong cancel cam.