Well It started as a head gasket change then came the tpi swap then the ms2 now my problem is I don't have a key tumblers went out and I tried to change it and it fell apart so instead I am putting a battery disconnect in its the one from advance auto it says it's rated for 300 amps but the problem is will it burst in flames when I put all the power for the starter ms2 factory ecm and factory fuse block and also will a 6 gauge wire a little under ten feet be able to power it sorry for the run on sentence any help would be great thanks guys/girls

 

Okay can some one at least tell if these are hot in or hot out of the car

 

those appear to be the fusible links that go from the battery (Hot all the Time) to the starter.

RJMcEachern

 

So my question is are they needed if I'm running a hot from the battery straight to the starter and power from a momentary rocker to the stater solenoid

 

Your right
I have one last question can some one tell me the total amp draw with everything on like ac stereo head lights wipers everything I know it sounds like I'm asking a lot but I love my car more than I love my family and don't want it to catch fire

 

First of all, fill out your profile with info on your car. It will help us know what you are working on.
That is your main power supply into the fuse block.
Reading your first post, you puzzle me. What exactly is the problem? Replacing the lock cylinder is much easier than trying to rewire your car. Just a matter of removing the wheel, lock plate and a screw holding the cylinder in. You will need a puller and a tool to compress the spring under the lock plate for reassembly, but those can be had for a free rental at auto zone. Why not bite the bullet and do it right if you love your car so much??? These are the type of "repairs" we are constantly seeing people come in complaining about when they try to get their cars fixed right. Hacked wiring harnesses and toggle switches totally ghetto.

 

Ghetto I'm not sure if your trying to insult me? Anyways it's a 1992 rs 25th anniversary lo3 t5 the kid I bought it from tried to turn it into a race car. All the sensor wires had been cut off and had the cheap triple gauge screwed to the bottom of the dash. I'm trying to convert it back to fuel injection using a megasquirt 2 v3 and diyautotunes switch panel. So "ghetto" is still better than before . The key really isn't that big of a deal seeing how the wiring is already been chopped to hell

 

So you want no type of locking system on the ignition? Mind you, it takes like 10 seconds to pop the lock open with as little as a ruler. You can run the disconnect between the starter and the fusible links you pictured in post 2. Positive cable from battery to starter, cable from starter to disconnect into your supply for everything else. This will have just the accessories going through it and much less amp draw.

 

Well I would like to have a locking system but I'm guessing he took the locking plate out when he put the grant steering wheel on but it does have a cheap alarm system and thanks that's what I was thinking I just finished splicing the wires back together underneath the dash the came from factory ignition I guess instead of a key he cut some wires and put and airplane switch and a push button but there was another red wire the was cut I hope that fixes why the head lights didn't work

 

This car is almost to far gone

 

These will help you out in trying to figure what's what.
http://austinthirdgen.org/mkportal/m...ody_wiring.gif
http://austinthirdgen.org/mkportal/m..._continued.gif

 

Thank you

 

As long as the body is solid, all else is repairable. I'd find a donor car and get a complete harness.

 

Drivers side is really nice passenger has the wrong door and wrong fender hood was chewed up on the corner and kinda rolled and the corner spoiler was broke off

 

All depends on your plans for the car. Rust is the killer. Check the floorboards, rockers, quarters on the inside behind rear wheels. Most typical rot spots.