My key shows 7-7.1 ohms, which means it's a #13 7.5 ohm resistor according to the chart. Apparently there's a tolerance that allows the key to work when older. Anyway, I'm thinking about bypassing vats and putting a resistor in the ignition line, because I had a thirdgen that left me in the parking lot at college when the vats screwed up one time. So you just open the line and insert a 7.5 ohm resistor? Also, what about putting in a kill switch? Does this go into the ignition line also? I've never installed one before. Any good recommendations on smart places to put it? I like a kill switch better than vats anyway, but wanted to hear what the forum had to say about how to bypass vats, and install it, and if there are better ways to do it.

 

This is what I FINALY did and is in my book the proper way to get rid of VATS and have few nice items added for fun.
Link = https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/elec...ing-tuned.html

 

I've already got an after market chip with a Moates adaptor. I'd have to spend another $60 or more to get another one burned.

 

Bypassing a very good security system? Sounds like an odd idea to me.

 

Possibly, but this good security system will leave you in the middle of nowhere if it decides to go haywire, like the one I had in college did. 23 year old car with 23 year old wiring, it could happen at any moment. Besides, I didn't say I was definitely going to do it, I just wanted more information about it to weigh what was the best option.

 

Get it fixed. The VATS system is a very good theft deterrent since the person trying to steal your car can't do anything without the key. It kills your fuel injectors, the pump and starter all at once if it doesn't sense the key's pellet. Also most of the time these systems go faulty is because the pellet itself is either worn out or dirty.

I know its a hassle (had mine give me some issues as well), but in the long run its makes sure your car remains your and not some would-be street thug seeing easy money.

 

Well, there's nothing wrong with it right now, it works fine. The problem is what happens when wires come loose and etc. I'm going to replace the ignition switch too, it's getting worn out. But you're right about the key getting old. It only shows 7 ohms, when it supposed to be 7.5. It wears out much more, and it won't work at all. LOL

 

a GM dealer will still make them for you just expect to pay a bit for it. I had two made for my 89 GTA and it was about 30 bucks a key I believe.

 

You can buy them on eBay for $12 a pair, they are just blanks that you have to get cut--which Wal Mart will do for free. That was my problem, I ordered a set on eBay, and stupidly didn't pay attention to the ohm chart. I got a set of 1.8ohms instead of the 7.5's I needed. The new key turns the ignition, but won't start the car of course. Since I was thinking about bypassing vats anyway, I thought I'd nose around about it on here before I actually did it. I still dread the day when I turn the key and nothing happens while I'm 50 miles from home. I get to pay for a tow, then tear my steering column apart when I get it home. I may just order new keys on eBay again and take my chances... Anyone have a 1.8 key send me $6 and you can have it, I still have one blank....

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/331212312536?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&fromMakeTrack=true

 

You do realize , that that resistance is not "7.5" ohms , instead it's "7500" ohms , yes ? If you buy a 7.5 ohm resistor it will not work , it has to be a 7500 ohm one . If you type in "Vats resistance chart" into the search , you will find a chart with all the resistances listed . It shows key blank 13 to be 7500 ........

 

LOL...yeah, the setting on the MM leads to a single digit reading, they may have done that to make it simpler for people to figure out on the page where you buy the key, IDK . But yeah, it's key #13, I mistakenly ordered a #7, which was 1.8 or "1800" etc. I never have understood electrical stuff, I don't like messing with it, but sometimes I have to.

 

Ha! VATS is evil. It is just waiting to fail and is a pain in the *** to fix.

 

Say that when you walk outside one day and find your car missing. VATS granted is problematic (especially on a 20+ year old vehicle), but the up side is at least its a better deterrent than nothing at all. Everything is a pain to fix. If it wasn't auto mechanics would be out of business. It's just a hassle you have to contend with.

 

I fall somewhere between. I know it's decent, but I'm also with you. When mine crapped out on me, it left me in the parking lot at college near midnight. One of my teachers was nice enough to drive me home, and the car sat in the lot all night. My dad went out the next day, and the stupid thing started right up no problem! I still had to get it fixed, at that time I didn't know how to do it myself. This was a 91 Formula that was only about 6-7 years old at the time. Now I have a 92 that's 23 years old. Ticking bomb. This is why I was thinking a well placed kill switch would do just as well.

 

Or, leave VATS in place, and add a hidden switch that when activated applies the correct resistance into the ignition key circuit. Use a SPDT (Single Pole, Double Throw) switch to select EITHER the key input, or a hard wired resistor. Then if the ECM has a problem reading the key, flip the switch and try again. Or, better yet, a momentary switch that defaults to the key reader, and you have to hold it "on" while cranking... that way it always goes back to reading the key.

 

A VATS module can go bad. Mine did. I tried all the tricks and it still was the worst kind of trouble. Intermittent.
Let that drive you crazy for a year, having to call a "flat bed" tow truck when it "really" wanted to mess with you and you wont be praising how great it is.

I had mine removed from the EPROM and did the connecter bypass and that literally "saved me"
Its all covered it the link I posted.
Now as far as an aftermarket alarm go's there are a few ways to go so your car does not get stolen with out a tow truck.

Example = Add a battery back up to the alarm.
Add a second siren to it inside the car.
Place the control module some where other than behind the kick panel.
Then a kill switch.
That's it.



They also have some features that surpass VATS, like the siren with keyless entry and a simple "door lock" when you trigger the alarm.
and even have a "notification" option that will buzz you when it goes off.
VATS might keep some one from driving your car but that some one could be YOU.

As far as already having a custom chip. You could send it to Tuned Performance and have him remove VATS from it for around $30.00.

 

"VATS might keep some one from driving your car but that some one could be YOU."

Hahahaha, well said Ron.

Mo, your idea is intriguing, but it's past me where I'm at now. I'd have to study it out to be able to do it. The concept is sound though, it's worth some thought! Thx.....

 

Well so far mine is not giving me any issues. So if it ain't broke don't fix it.

 

You can do what I did and keep the vats.

What I did was remove my key cylinder with the "vats" plug and changed it to a generic one that is found on the older camaros (that operated the cable). Then I hid my vats key cylinder underneath the ash tray (easy to remove) and plugged the harness in. The harness has plenty of length.

So even if a thief smashes the steering column and tries to pull the start cable, it won't go because of the hidden vats key. The downside is you need two keys to start your car (or just leave the vats key in the vats cylinder and put a switch in the line).

 

First let me say that this is not meant to offend any one.
Each person has there own opinion about how to protect there car.
But.........
The key words here are "smashes the steering column".
That's "how" VATS works.
Every time.
There is nothing to stop them from destroying your car in total silence.
No price to pay for being inside the car taking there time.
And it can be done in your front yard with out you even knowing it.


The after market alarm system I described (you can leave out the "notification" aspect if you don't want to spend more money" .Its not a necessity when using the rest I listed.



It can stop a person in there tracks, without letting them cause damage to the car.Worst case scenario would be them getting the door open and trying to do what ever he thinks will work with two sirense going off , one in the car blasting his ears out and telling every one around him that he's there.
Lets see him get past the kill switch and the disabled starter like that.

That's what I call an alarm system.
It would be a little pricey adding the other than basic parts.
A traditional alarm system with a kill swich is still effective and is what I use.

 

No offence taken bud, Just saying I don't want to dig into the wiring right atm and if it ain't broke not going to fix it.

 

If VATS had been working properly I would have left it in.
I would have just added to it.

 

Copy that, My last one got stolen, and it didn't slow them down one moment.
Your better off with a kill switch you know and can control. My vats failed for no known reason and screwed my car up for a year with stupid intermittent problems that were all solved by removing that great system you must love. Oh, I contended with it, smashed it with a BFH when I got it out.