Every time I turn on my ac on anything other than economy the temp gauge hits max and appears to be overheating. It's not gradual it's damned near instant. I was wondering if it's a grounding issue or if something else is going on. I don't see why the ac wiring would effect the temp gauge, but I'm rather new to this. I have searched the forums for this particular issue and have come up with no solution.

 

Any help appreciated. Thanks in advance.

 

Link is bad. Lmao

 

Yeah that worthless POS spammer hit every forum on this site, posting his tennis shoes or handbags or **** or whatever trash it is in the top post on every one...

Sounds to me like you have wires crossed somewhere. Temp gauge sending unit and AC compressor wires are both dark green; and if you have the driver's side compressor, they come within inches of each other.

Disconnect them both from wherever they go and see if it still does it.

 

I'm pretty sure my compressor is on the passenger side

 

I checked the wires. Ones going to fan one is going to the battery directly. The PO did a hack job wiring everything

 

Sounds like the reason you have electrical problems, is because the PO hacked it up.

Anything could be hooked to (or unhooked from) anything anywhere. No way for anybody that isn't looking at it, to guess what's been sodomized.

Best we can tell you from out here is, un-hack it; put it back right; and then go from there.

 

If you go clicking on strange links from scumbags who spam forums , best have a damn good antivirus program running ! Any scumbag who goes to the point of "look at my new Camaro" on a Camaro forum is obviously a human spammer , and not a Bot , and the human spammer is the one to be least trusted of all !

Now , as to your car's wiring problems . Unless you or someone you know are somewhat automotive electric savvy , it's going to be pretty hard indeed to help you with this . Reason being , no matter how much or little you know about car electrical , if the car was unhacked , 100% bone stock original wiring , we could look at the original wiring diagrams to offer suggestions . But since it's been hacked , and there are literally millions of ways that morons with wirecutters can damage these cars , it's gonna be pretty hard indeed to come up with much more than the generalization of the fact that there's gotta be a cross short between the two systems , like Sofa said . In normal unhacked thirdgens , the temp gauge shares nothing with the A/C , and so it's gotta be some pretty funky stuff going on under that hood wiring wise .....

 

The guy was running a switch to the fan and also bypassing the vats system without a bypass module. He literally just left the vats key with resistor under the steering column and then ran a second ignition to start the car. I've never really worked on cars and this was to be my first project as well as a daily and we'll I've already learned quite a bit to say the least. Took forever to find out why my car wouldn't turn over, then when I went to bypass the vats through the starter relay I happened to kick the second ignition and key out by mistake and then fooled with that and ever since I haven't had an issue with the vats. Thank god. I'm half tempted to say screw it since everything is going fine with the exception of the ac. But that wouldn't teach me anything really, so I guess I'm goin to trace wires and try to find out what the hell he had going on lmao

 

Also on the note of spammers. I'm not too worried about a virus I run avast and some other programs and I also often use a secondary OS off of USB that doesn't save any files locally. It's pretty safe to click almost anything lmao.

 

That'll be a great lesson for your future years in this hobby, to always use wiring changes only as an absolute last resort after all else has failed, during a project.

 

Hmm. Not sure what to make of this. This is the main spot he hacked up. I would swap them back to normal but he bypassed the vats by doing this he claims and i dont really want to end up with starting problems by trying to wire them back to stock. Maybe one of you will be able to figure out what i should do? Eh. Im gonna give it a rest for today.<br/>

 

There is no way that a "vats bypass" involves any of those wires , at the location they are hacked . The large purple wire , which looks to be untouched , is the wire leading from the VATS relay under the plastic panel where the hood release is near the driver's door , to the starter's solenoid . From the wires I do see hacked in that location , it appears maybe ? he was trying to jury rig the radiator fan to possibly work without it's normal temperature switch , but instead ended up hacking into the temp gauge wiring instead .

Sadly , this is all too typical of when knuckle dragging morons with less of a clue than a monkey doing brain surgery get hold of a set of wirecutters

PS , if that ugly jumper is going from the large pink to the large orange as it appears , you may want to check the fender mounted fuse that should be up near the radiator somewhere , the large pink is key on power , the large orange is supposed to be power all the time (regardless of key position) and if the fuse I mentioned blew , the orange wire would stop having power . This could be why it appears those two wires are jumped , and could be the basis for what the PO (S) is calling a "vats bypass" (The orange wire feeds among other things , the ECM) .....

 

I really have no interest in electrical work. But thanks to low funds and overwhelming heat, seems to be something I'm about to learn about. And yeah, he ran a switch for the fan and it definitely does not have a temp sensor wired to it anymore lmao. The radiator fan does work, if I flip the switch. I don't use it unless I'm idle a lot or in congested traffic and I keep a fairly close eye on my temp gauge which amazingly enough actually works. Lmao. What would the brown wire, the pink wire and the orange wire happen to run to?

 

Well , I can tell you that the pink wire runs from the ignition switch , and runs to the distributor to supply it with power when the key is in the start and also run position .

The orange wire is most likely the one* that runs from the fuse I mentioned under the hood near the radiator , to the ECM (Computer that runs the fuel injectors) and the fuel pump relay . Now that orange wire is supposed to be +12 Volts all the time regardless of key position due to it's being fed from a fuse connected to the junction block also near the radiator . It's my guess that the fuse blew , the PO had no clue there even WAS a fuse all by itself near the radiator , and did the hack repair to get that orange wire powered up at least when the key is on , to get the ECM power so it would run .

Take a voltmeter (VOM) set to read in the 50 volt DC range (always set the meter higher than the voltage your lookin for , in this case 12) and ground the negative (black) end . turn the key to on and probe either the pink or orange and note that there is 12 Volts there . Now disconnect that jumper between the pink & orange . probe the orange with the meter's positive (red) lead . Bet you see 0 volts (or .01 volt or some such due to the electronic meter) due to that wire not being fed power from it's intended source , which is of course that fuse . find the fuse , pull it out and test it with the "Ohms" function of the meter . I should read 0 Ohms or pretty darned close to it (again , may be .1 ohm or some low number) . With Ohms , 0 Ohms is a perfect connection and higher numbers mean a lesser than perfect connection . We always want our fuses to be a perfect connection . If the fuse is open (blown) and reads "OL" on the meter when checked (OL = Open Line , no connection) get a new fuse and put it in . Has power returned to the orange wire without it being jumped to the pink ? Great , leave out the jumper , tape up the areas of missing insulation on the two (now no longer connected by the jumper) wires .

As to the Brown , off the top of my head I'm not 101% certain , so i'll have to look at the wiring diagram for that one .

 

Turned out the wires that were shoddy fixed were touching where he jumped them took me apart rewired it and fixed it up with electrical tape for now and no issues.

 

I got a list of things to do but I'll likely restore that wiring to factory in a week or so. Gonna leave the bypass to the vats since it's working. If it ain't broke don't fix it. Lmao.