I have a 1983 Z28, that is (was) a drivable project. Last month while driving her (Joan) she had a complete electrical failure. I pushed her int to a parking stall at the convenient store, wiggled the key and cranked it over, drover her 50 feet, died again. I couldn't get Joan running again. Had to have her towed home. When the driver dropped her off I got one good crank from her then nothing. What I have done, New battery, nothing happened. New Alternator, again nothing, checked and changed fuses, replaced ignition switch, still dead. I finally had a auto electrician check things out, because of previous owners work they just left the wiring a mess down there. He said, he could trace the short, but its going to take some time and can be expensive. He added, My best bet would be to go online and look at Painless wiring harness. I did, plus other wiring sites, the highest year I could find is for a 1981. Does anyone else have this problem? How did you solve it? Would a 2nd Gen. Harness work? Please help!

 

Probably a fusible link.

There are 2; at the starter. They hook THE ENTIRE CAR to the battery, at the big post of the starter, the same place the batt cable goes.

I would NOT try the Painless type of route. Fix what you've got: it's less trouble and more satisfactory in the long run.

No a 2nd gen harness will not work.

Best way to go about it might be to unplug the main bulkhead connectors at the firewall below the brake booster. It's a 7 or 8mm headed screw. There are 2 halves of the connector; one goes to the body (lights mostly), one goes to the engine and handles stuff that's not computer specific. Gauges, ignition, charging, starting, batt supply, etc. If you follow that one, maybe GENTLY and CAREFULLY disconnect it and release it from everything it's attached to, and lay it out on the ground, you can probably repair it easily and cheaply and quickly. At least, less $$$$ and effort than a Painless sort of thing, which will require THE EXACT SAME amount of taking out and putting back in, PLUS making everything fit right, PLUS figuring out what does/doesn't go where, PLUS the $$$$$.

EVERYONE has this problem whenever they buy a used car and some PO was the kind of moron that shouldn't even be allowed to own a pr of dykes. Every flunky that wouldn't know an electron from Shinola picks up dykes and just all the sudden experiences a REVELATION FROM BEYOND: every wire just seems to be too long and too .... straight. They are somehow inspired to cut, spice, twist, add, re-route, torture, and otherwise DESTROY the wiring in their car. Then of course when it becomes SO unreliable it won't drive anymore, they sell it and start over on another; and some poor victim gets to enjoy the fruits of their stupidity, as the gift that keeps on giving. Amusing species, this, on this planet; totally INFERIOR. I can hardly wait for my next planetary assignment, I hope it's to a planet where the supposedly "highest" life form is at least marginally logical.

Never heard of this "had" "check". How does that work?

 

I just checked those connectors, they are good, however this relay that is above them that they were plugged into is burnt out. Could this be the problem? If so what is this relay called?

 

No "relay" anywhere near there that I'm aware of, at least not from the factory.

A photo would help identify it.

However, if something is "burnt out", it's usually a reliable indicator of A problem, even if not THE problem.

What "connectors" are you talking about? How did you "check" them? What makes you think the fusible links are "good"?

 

I found out from my local Camaro guru, that its is a factory relay, but its not in the factory location. The relay is the starter, anti-theft relay. The bad news that relay was discontinued. I went to 3 salvage yards to look for it. All the Camaro's and other GM vehicles that has that relay, had theirs already removed. I found one, it is for a 89, poor girl was beyond ever getting back on the road. Anyways the relay was almost ok, except has a broken prong and has a different part number. I had the relay from my car, and it fit perfectly. I took the 89, one home with me pluged it in, lights came on but wouldn't start. I'm thing if it was completely intact then it would start. I am looking for relay part number 14093107.

 

This one?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Chevrolet-RE...JXVPHE&vxp=mtr

Or this one?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Starter-Rela...FXZFFY&vxp=mtr

 

83 doesn't have a starter relay. (speaking strictly as the owner of a 83 since quite possibly before you were born) Which is why you didn't find one at a junkyard.

There's no relay in any location anywhere near the starter, from the factory.

A photo would help, along with a list of the wire colors/sizes.

You may be suffering from the aftermarket alarm / remote start blues.

 

First off, Post # 2, Sentence # 1.

Next: I know it's dinosaur-ish and seems like it takes more time and is less efficient. But: a factory service manual (Helms. Not Haynes. Not Chilton) for your car is regularly available on eBay for < $ 50. New is $100. Some models / years have separate electrical diagnosis books or transmission books for the year that are included with uses books.

Where's the value? Every time I had a diagnosis / electrical issue that I posted online to which I wasn't able to get an answer online, I was able to take my time, troubleshoot it, and solve the problem. The step-by-step instructions to track down a particular problem can be positively invaluable.

 

Unless you bought your 83 in 1970, which would be interesting and impossible, but anyways. The relay i aquired looks like the second one. The original was like that but the bottom half is an aging white.
Brief history about my car. I am the 18th legal owner of her. The engine that was in it when I got it was an over worked almost worn out 305 that was traced back to a 69 Nova. I gave that engine a little more life to the extent of my mechanic skills, which I will explain later. When that engine finally gave out to a cracked engine block. I ordered a brand new 350 built the way I wanted it from Jegs. I had to the 700R4 rebuilt with a shift kit and the rear axles gear ratio switched to a posi 4:11. I had help installing everything. I had one of my mechanic friends connect the wiring. So being the 18th owner, I only know what I have had done.

 

This is Joan the day i bought her.<br/>

 

FWIW:

http://www.rockauto.com/en/partsearch/?partnum=14093107

Are those Cragar S/S wheels? Always liked them even though back in the day people used to say they the hubs would crack (and they did! My bubby's '68 Z28 had two cracked ones).

 

Yes they were craigers I didn't like them, sold them and bought Iroc rims. I know it's an 83, but looks better than craigers I think.