Issues with fuel pump kill switch
08-12-2017, 01:24 AM
#1
Issues with fuel pump kill switch
So I installed a killswitch for the ground (black) wire coming from the connector mounted behind the rear seat, and it was some cheap Dorman rocker switch with a light. It doesn't seem to be working. Here's what I did:
Cut the black wire (that is part of the pink, tan/white, black wiring harness), extend out both sides of the black wire to the switch, and plugged one wire into one side of the switch, and the other wire into the other side of the switch. For clearance reasons in my tight little hiding spot, I pulled out the metal terminal that you would plug into for the little LED light on the switch.
AFAIK, this switch should engage and disengage the ground connection to the fuel pump, thus killing fuel... however this switch seems to have no effect on the fuel pump because the fuel pump still primes and runs no matter what position the switch is in...
My questiona are: Did I wire it wrong? Is this switch just a POS and the ground wire is grounding through the switch anyway? Did removing the metal terminal responsible for the little LED mess up the internals of the switch somehow
Cut the black wire (that is part of the pink, tan/white, black wiring harness), extend out both sides of the black wire to the switch, and plugged one wire into one side of the switch, and the other wire into the other side of the switch. For clearance reasons in my tight little hiding spot, I pulled out the metal terminal that you would plug into for the little LED light on the switch.
AFAIK, this switch should engage and disengage the ground connection to the fuel pump, thus killing fuel... however this switch seems to have no effect on the fuel pump because the fuel pump still primes and runs no matter what position the switch is in...
My questiona are: Did I wire it wrong? Is this switch just a POS and the ground wire is grounding through the switch anyway? Did removing the metal terminal responsible for the little LED mess up the internals of the switch somehow
08-12-2017, 09:32 AM
#2
Re: Issues with fuel pump kill switch
So I installed a killswitch for the ground (black) wire coming from the connector mounted behind the rear seat, and it was some cheap Dorman rocker switch with a light. It doesn't seem to be working. Here's what I did:
Cut the black wire (that is part of the pink, tan/white, black wiring harness), extend out both sides of the black wire to the switch, and plugged one wire into one side of the switch, and the other wire into the other side of the switch. For clearance reasons in my tight little hiding spot, I pulled out the metal terminal that you would plug into for the little LED light on the switch.
AFAIK, this switch should engage and disengage the ground connection to the fuel pump, thus killing fuel... however this switch seems to have no effect on the fuel pump because the fuel pump still primes and runs no matter what position the switch is in...
My questiona are: Did I wire it wrong? Is this switch just a POS and the ground wire is grounding through the switch anyway? Did removing the metal terminal responsible for the little LED mess up the internals of the switch somehow
Cut the black wire (that is part of the pink, tan/white, black wiring harness), extend out both sides of the black wire to the switch, and plugged one wire into one side of the switch, and the other wire into the other side of the switch. For clearance reasons in my tight little hiding spot, I pulled out the metal terminal that you would plug into for the little LED light on the switch.
AFAIK, this switch should engage and disengage the ground connection to the fuel pump, thus killing fuel... however this switch seems to have no effect on the fuel pump because the fuel pump still primes and runs no matter what position the switch is in...
My questiona are: Did I wire it wrong? Is this switch just a POS and the ground wire is grounding through the switch anyway? Did removing the metal terminal responsible for the little LED mess up the internals of the switch somehow
Mistake #2 = you should have tapped into that positive wire at or near the fuel pump relay under the hood and left the harness in the back uncut .
Mistake #3 = the pump draws a sizable amount of power , any autoparts store cheap plastic switch is just another potential failure point , an electronics supply store can hook you up with a worthy switch .
And lastly , I don't like the idea of any kinds of extra failure point in the form of add on kill switches and such , are things really that bad where you live that a kill switch is needed VS a good alarm system ?
08-12-2017, 12:27 PM
#3
Re: Issues with fuel pump kill switch
I agree with OrangeBird. There are plenty of alternative solutions for vehicle safety that don't involve adding in kill switches. Many solutions are actually in threads about someone installing or wanting to install a kill switch. However, if you must have this switch then do as Orange recommended with one alteration, Use the relay's energizing wire since it will be a very low amperage wire and you can use an inexpensive switch. Most electronics are ground switching for controlling relays so it is OK to use a ground in that situation.
In most cases, an alarm with the positive wired straight to the battery and a "club" steering wheel lock will ward of most car thieves. Pulling fuses can also work and you could purchase a piggyback fuse holder that you could wire a switch to. Unfortunately if their is a a group of car theft guys they will be able to steal your almost no mater what you do. So as Orange alluded to, if things are that bad where you live you need to get out of the area or buy some other car that they would have no interest in stealing. 80-90's S-10s, Cavaliers and the little Toyota pickups are reliable, easy to work on and guaranteed to be passed up by thieves. I would love if I could still find mid-mileage s-10s with a 4 cylinder and working air conditioning.
In most cases, an alarm with the positive wired straight to the battery and a "club" steering wheel lock will ward of most car thieves. Pulling fuses can also work and you could purchase a piggyback fuse holder that you could wire a switch to. Unfortunately if their is a a group of car theft guys they will be able to steal your almost no mater what you do. So as Orange alluded to, if things are that bad where you live you need to get out of the area or buy some other car that they would have no interest in stealing. 80-90's S-10s, Cavaliers and the little Toyota pickups are reliable, easy to work on and guaranteed to be passed up by thieves. I would love if I could still find mid-mileage s-10s with a 4 cylinder and working air conditioning.
08-12-2017, 07:40 PM
#4
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Re: Issues with fuel pump kill switch
Is that black wire really fuel pump ground or is it just the fuel sender return to dash gage?
08-13-2017, 02:42 AM
#6
Re: Issues with fuel pump kill switch
Thanks for all the tips THO. I have a club, and I am going to take y'alls advice and just interrupt the hot wire from the relay, even though that seems very easy for a theif to just bypass.
Call me paranoid, but I just really don't want my car stolen
08-14-2017, 05:17 PM
#7
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Deft Theft
The odds of a street loser diagnosing, then running a jumper wire to bypass your hidden switch is near zero if not zero.
I take it VATS is not installed or inoperative.
Sometimes making your car theft proof is more of an engineering exercise than a necessity.
So after you install the kill switch:
Tow trucks can be defeated.
When parking, back it in so they have to drag locked wheels.
Install a tilt switch so if the car is lifted, a siren plus smoke release canisters are set off.
You can use hidden batteries so even if the moron cuts the battery cable the other batterie(s) will take over.
You can have it turn on a GPS tracker.
For non-towing situations (the vast majority) you can install:
A fogger.
Sheet metal in the door making it impossible to use a slim-jim.
A glass break alarm/ignition disabler.
A keypad lockout of the ignition.
Switches which have to be touched in a certain order so even if they’re not hidden the loser won’t know the correct order.
A timer that makes the loser think he is getting away by allowing the car to start but it stalls after several seconds and only you know the secret to defeat it.
The above is just a small portion of the many ways to render thieves helpless and running away like the losers they are.
No one from the Impossible Missions Force is going to try to steal anyone’s car.
It’s all about keeping the street trash in line, and occasionally horizontal.
◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙
Happy Racing !
◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙
Some Drivers Use Only One Foot To Drive ▬ You Can Identify Them ▬ They Are The Ones Always Crashing Thru Storefronts Or Plummeting Off Parking Garages
I take it VATS is not installed or inoperative.
Sometimes making your car theft proof is more of an engineering exercise than a necessity.
So after you install the kill switch:
Tow trucks can be defeated.
When parking, back it in so they have to drag locked wheels.
Install a tilt switch so if the car is lifted, a siren plus smoke release canisters are set off.
You can use hidden batteries so even if the moron cuts the battery cable the other batterie(s) will take over.
You can have it turn on a GPS tracker.
For non-towing situations (the vast majority) you can install:
A fogger.
Sheet metal in the door making it impossible to use a slim-jim.
A glass break alarm/ignition disabler.
A keypad lockout of the ignition.
Switches which have to be touched in a certain order so even if they’re not hidden the loser won’t know the correct order.
A timer that makes the loser think he is getting away by allowing the car to start but it stalls after several seconds and only you know the secret to defeat it.
The above is just a small portion of the many ways to render thieves helpless and running away like the losers they are.
No one from the Impossible Missions Force is going to try to steal anyone’s car.
It’s all about keeping the street trash in line, and occasionally horizontal.
◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙
Happy Racing !
◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙
Some Drivers Use Only One Foot To Drive ▬ You Can Identify Them ▬ They Are The Ones Always Crashing Thru Storefronts Or Plummeting Off Parking Garages
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08-14-2017, 08:28 PM
#8
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Re: Issues with fuel pump kill switch
A timer that makes the loser think he is getting away by allowing the car to start but it stalls after several seconds and only you know the secret to defeat it.
I like this option the best.
I like this option the best.
08-14-2017, 09:08 PM
#9
Re: Deft Theft
The odds of a street loser diagnosing, then running a jumper wire to bypass your hidden switch is near zero if not zero.
I take it VATS is not installed or inoperative.
Sometimes making your car theft proof is more of an engineering exercise than a necessity.
So after you install the kill switch:
Tow trucks can be defeated.
When parking, back it in so they have to drag locked wheels.
Install a tilt switch so if the car is lifted, a siren plus smoke release canisters are set off.
You can use hidden batteries so even if the moron cuts the battery cable the other batterie(s) will take over.
You can have it turn on a GPS tracker.
For non-towing situations (the vast majority) you can install:
A fogger.
Sheet metal in the door making it impossible to use a slim-jim.
A glass break alarm/ignition disabler.
A keypad lockout of the ignition.
Switches which have to be touched in a certain order so even if they’re not hidden the loser won’t know the correct order.
A timer that makes the loser think he is getting away by allowing the car to start but it stalls after several seconds and only you know the secret to defeat it.
The above is just a small portion of the many ways to render thieves helpless and running away like the losers they are.
No one from the Impossible Missions Force is going to try to steal anyone’s car.
It’s all about keeping the street trash in line, and occasionally horizontal.
◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙
Happy Racing !
◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙
Some Drivers Use Only One Foot To Drive ▬ You Can Identify Them ▬ They Are The Ones Always Crashing Thru Storefronts Or Plummeting Off Parking Garages
I take it VATS is not installed or inoperative.
Sometimes making your car theft proof is more of an engineering exercise than a necessity.
So after you install the kill switch:
Tow trucks can be defeated.
When parking, back it in so they have to drag locked wheels.
Install a tilt switch so if the car is lifted, a siren plus smoke release canisters are set off.
You can use hidden batteries so even if the moron cuts the battery cable the other batterie(s) will take over.
You can have it turn on a GPS tracker.
For non-towing situations (the vast majority) you can install:
A fogger.
Sheet metal in the door making it impossible to use a slim-jim.
A glass break alarm/ignition disabler.
A keypad lockout of the ignition.
Switches which have to be touched in a certain order so even if they’re not hidden the loser won’t know the correct order.
A timer that makes the loser think he is getting away by allowing the car to start but it stalls after several seconds and only you know the secret to defeat it.
The above is just a small portion of the many ways to render thieves helpless and running away like the losers they are.
No one from the Impossible Missions Force is going to try to steal anyone’s car.
It’s all about keeping the street trash in line, and occasionally horizontal.
◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙
Happy Racing !
◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙
Some Drivers Use Only One Foot To Drive ▬ You Can Identify Them ▬ They Are The Ones Always Crashing Thru Storefronts Or Plummeting Off Parking Garages
