C100 bulkhead connector question
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Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 627
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From: Carson City Nevada
Car: 86 coupe
Engine: 383
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: 9 bolt 3.27 posi
C100 bulkhead connector question
I am experiencing all kinds of interior electrical issues.
11.7 volts at the voltage gauge, no power windows, poor starting (MSD in cap)
voltage gauge light not working, interior light not working (new issue)
I am cleaning the drivers side bulkhead connector and wondered if anyone knows the properties of the goop GM used to seal it?
Is it a dielectric compound?
The reason I'm asking is, if this stuff gets in between the contacts, will it still allow a connection?
Any idea where to find a suitable replacement?
Also, does anyone know where the main dash ground connection is? On the steering column?
11.7 volts at the voltage gauge, no power windows, poor starting (MSD in cap)
voltage gauge light not working, interior light not working (new issue)
I am cleaning the drivers side bulkhead connector and wondered if anyone knows the properties of the goop GM used to seal it?
Is it a dielectric compound?
The reason I'm asking is, if this stuff gets in between the contacts, will it still allow a connection?
Any idea where to find a suitable replacement?
Also, does anyone know where the main dash ground connection is? On the steering column?
Joined: Sep 1999
Posts: 4,354
Likes: 308
From: NJ
Car: 92 Firebird
Engine: 4.8 LR4
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 3.45 9 Bolt
Re: C100 bulkhead connector question
It was some kind of grease they used. It is so hard to remove. I use dielectric grease in connections when I think I need that in the joint. American Autowire says to put RTV (I believe) in the "C100" in their replacement harnesses, but I don't think I would ever do that since you would essentially be gluing it together.
I Think the main ground is to the metal part of the dash carrier, which isn't the best place and it is painted. When I put my car back together I put a wire from that location to the body so it wasn't a potential place for a ground issue, I also used foam in between all the places where the dash carrier touched the body.
I Think the main ground is to the metal part of the dash carrier, which isn't the best place and it is painted. When I put my car back together I put a wire from that location to the body so it wasn't a potential place for a ground issue, I also used foam in between all the places where the dash carrier touched the body.
Joined: Sep 2005
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Car: Yes
Engine: Usually
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Re: C100 bulkhead connector question
The factory stuff comes RIGHT OUT with lacquer thinner or similar solvent (acetone, MEK). NOT "paint thinner", mineral spirits, turpentine. Just put some in a container and drop the connector in it and let it soak. Use a brush to get the last little bit out. It does allow a connection. Its purpose is to seal water out of the actual contacts.
"Bulb grease" is probably the best substitute. Permatex has it; you can get it at AZ, Walmart, etc.
"Bulb grease" is probably the best substitute. Permatex has it; you can get it at AZ, Walmart, etc.
Joined: Sep 1999
Posts: 4,354
Likes: 308
From: NJ
Car: 92 Firebird
Engine: 4.8 LR4
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 3.45 9 Bolt
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 28,039
Likes: 2,502
Car: Yes
Engine: Usually
Transmission: Sometimes
Axle/Gears: Behind me somewhere
Re: C100 bulkhead connector question
That's weird... I haven't tried to do one newer than around 87 or so, maybe they changed?
The old stuff was like black/brown tar.
Seems like most of the newer designs use inherently watertight setups, with rubber seals and the like; and the contacts are not treated. Not like the older ones that the wire cavities were completely open and therefore the contact parts of the connector had to protect their own selves somehow.
The old stuff was like black/brown tar.
Seems like most of the newer designs use inherently watertight setups, with rubber seals and the like; and the contacts are not treated. Not like the older ones that the wire cavities were completely open and therefore the contact parts of the connector had to protect their own selves somehow.
Joined: Sep 1999
Posts: 4,354
Likes: 308
From: NJ
Car: 92 Firebird
Engine: 4.8 LR4
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 3.45 9 Bolt
Re: C100 bulkhead connector question
The old stuff was like black/brown tar.
Seems like most of the newer designs use inherently watertight setups, with rubber seals and the like; and the contacts are not treated. Not like the older ones that the wire cavities were completely open and therefore the contact parts of the connector had to protect their own selves somehow.
Seems like most of the newer designs use inherently watertight setups, with rubber seals and the like; and the contacts are not treated. Not like the older ones that the wire cavities were completely open and therefore the contact parts of the connector had to protect their own selves somehow.
My 73 Camaro and 69 Chevy trucks are like that with the Packard connectors, no sealing whatsoever.
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 627
Likes: 0
From: Carson City Nevada
Car: 86 coupe
Engine: 383
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: 9 bolt 3.27 posi
Re: C100 bulkhead connector question
Thanks for the tips guys!
I also read PB Blaster works to get that nasty crap out of the connector
I also read PB Blaster works to get that nasty crap out of the connector
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Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 627
Likes: 0
From: Carson City Nevada
Car: 86 coupe
Engine: 383
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: 9 bolt 3.27 posi
Re: C100 bulkhead connector question
Used PB Blaster tonight, works pretty well, gonna leave the connectors to soak overnight.
I got a 3 oz tube of dielectric grease to insulate the contacts once they're clean
Has anyone noticed there is a small gasket around the area where the bolt passes through the C100 connector?
Wonder where I would find one of those?
Guess I could use some silicone to seal that area
I got a 3 oz tube of dielectric grease to insulate the contacts once they're clean
Has anyone noticed there is a small gasket around the area where the bolt passes through the C100 connector?
Wonder where I would find one of those?
Guess I could use some silicone to seal that area
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Maybe I will try some MEK next 