how do i remove and replace the light switch on my 92 firebird

 

First are you sure its the switch? what is the issue?

Second.
remove the lower cover under the driver dash
loosen the steering column (two big bolts) this gives you clearance.
third remove the lower trim on the passenger side and the little peice above that (has the performance sound or performance suspension badge on it)
then remove the cluster bezel
then remove the headlight switch pannel
it should be obvious from there.

 

still having the same problem engine stopped 5.0 92 firebird ---engine was running turned the headlights on ----engine stopped---- all electric dead You have replied to my post and I thank you I checked the ground all is well.

I have found a terminal block next to the radiator there are 5 connections to the post one goes to the fan one is the positive from the battery what are the remaining 3 . 2 of them have fusible links.

if the links are good i am then looking at the switch only prob is that the accessories split off after the link and before the switch and all the interior lights are out too

 

Humm, one thought before you take 1/2 your dash apart.

On the firewall there is a head light control module. This controls the headlight doors. Do this.
Unplug both connectors going into it, then beside each headlight there is a **** that will manually raise the doors. Raise the doors up. Then unplug the actuator pig tails at each headlight.
Then turn on your headlights and see what it does.

Also has your car ever worked right or has it always had this issue?

 

Also does your car have an after market radio? If so unplug it and try it. I've seen people do really dumb stuff like splice the dimmer back light into a wire going to the ECU which can cause this.
And check your tail lights, flog lights, head lights, side markers etc for water in them, disconnect any that have water in them and try.

 

bought the car new in 92 radio is stock car is garage kept never in the rain lol was just getting it in order for inspection has never had a problem like this
do you have any idea what the wires are at the terminal block

 

I'm not 100% sure on the wire block, One goes to the ECU and is used by the ECU to provide power to things such as the fuel pump relay, I want to say one is for the fans. The other one I'm not 100% sure. I do know when I had that in place (my car is now 100% custom wired under the hood with a LS swap) I had corrosion on that wiring block (my car was 100% rust free except for the battery tray and that block) and my fuel pump wouldn't prime, turned out that the ECU was only giving my relay 7 volts which wasn't enough to engage it, traced it back to high resistance on that wiring block.

The headlight wiring goes through the bulk head connector behind the brake booster is that in good shape.

I would say that you are either feeding 12vdc to something that shouldn't be or that you are pulling enough current that you are hitting a resistance in a connector. If you remove the load you can see if its resistance within the wiring or a connector (unplug the actuators, headlights etc) and see if she still dies with the head lights on. If it does die then you are shorting 12vdc to something if it doesn't die then you have corrosion somewhere and the current draw for the headlights etc is overloading that.

I honestly don't see the switch as being the cause but accessing it for circuit testing may be a good idea.

Review this it may help in the process
https://housetechlab.com/how-to-meas...a-clamp-meter/