So for those of you looking for a cheap alternative to window racer. I installed the following:
what I did was run a spade connector into the fuse box where the circuit breaker for the window goes, then attached the other end to the circuit breaker. Then on the other end of the circuit breaker I ran a wire into my engine bay which went the input for the converter. Finally I ran a wire back into the car with another spade connector and plugged it into the fuse box where the window circuit breaker. Similarly to window racer, this retains the stock circuit breaker so you don't need to worry about burning anything up.
It gives the window 19.6 volts and makes them move like warp speed!


Note: I installed the step up unit in my engine bay because there is so much aftermarket alarm system junk where the fuse box is so there was not much room. If you have room you can just the converter under the dash. It actually does not get hot with normal use.

I think the install is pretty straight forward, but if anyone wants to see a diagram of how to run it just let me know and I will draw one up.

 

That's really cool you figured that out.

I applaud your effort, but I really wonder about the long term durability of using higher voltage? The doors already flex and crack over time, this has to be adding to the stresses. And I wonder whether these (and the "Window Racer") are a fire waiting to happen.

But the real issue with our windows are three fold. One, the factory wire size is really too small. Two, the window tracks need to be cleaned and re-lubricated since the original grease is 28+ years old now, minimum. Three, the window switches are actually resistive and bring the circuit voltage down. I ran 10 gauge wire to my doors, replaced the motors, cleaned and greased the tracks and bought one of those window opener/closer modules from DEI and my windows open and close very fast. Maybe not as fast as what you're seeing, but I haven't added any potential stresses to the door.

 

Yeah I was thinking about that too. In the summer I am going to be cleaning the tracks and running new wires for it.

 

If you're running wire you should do the relay upgrade too, that will eliminate the switches as a point of resistance. If you keep the voltage booster it will make them go ludicrous speed!

 

What's the relay upgrade? Is there a thread on it?

 

Info is on the boards if you search.

Cliffs, it uses the window switches to activate relays and provide the windows with direct battery power. No voltage drop, and more current is available. So the windows function much better.

Very similar to the headlight relay mod. With the tiny wiring I think some people have measured the actual voltage at the headlights around 10v or less. Far cry from the 13-14v they should have when the engine is running.

Honestly, we should probably just get some aftermarket fusebox that incorporates relays and re-wire the harness so that you can have direct battery power with proper gauge wiring to everything.

Aka, our fusebox and its tiny wiring sucks.

 

msammy93, how is this step voltage converter working out? Do you have a wiring diagram how you wired it in?

What if you were to use something a little closer to a cars voltage range like what's below?

 

Anyone have any experience with these?

 

I'm curious about a wiring diagram. What did you do with the -/ground? Honestly, I think I follow your description for the positive wire, but not the negative.

 

Hi there,

I am actually going to be doing this DIY window racer. How has yours been functioning since the install? Any issues?
Would you be kind of to share a diagram of how you connected the 4 wires?

Thank you A.