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Hi, in the past at times randomly my headlights and interior dash lights would go out for maybe 2 or 3 seconds at a time and then turn back on. It had only happened once or twice so I figured it wasn't a major deal but of course I was wrong. Yesterday after going fishing I start the car as normal, but after a few short moments all my lights go out and don't come back. My headlights did not work, which wasn't great as it was pitch black outside and I had to drive behind a friend as there aren't any lights on some of the roads around me. I also noticed that my trunk latch button did not work either while the lights were out. Also the light that manually comes on when the door is opened also did not work. The only ones that worked were my hazards. I don't know much about cars and I know far less about electrical problems. I'd really appreciate any ideas on what might be going wrong, or what I should check/test. I will note that my trunk latch button (edit: 5/6/2023) and headlights started working again after not being driven, and then proceeded to be unopen able after being driven again.
Last edited by JacobM123; May 6, 2023 at 10:01 PM.
Usually, when the headlights go off and then back on at 3 second intervals, it's because the headlight circuit is drawing too much current and the self resetting circuit breaker built into the headlight switch is being activated. So my initial checks here would be the wiring near the headlights to see if any are chafed against the surrounding metal bits. Now, as per TL's suggestion, it also sounds as if one of your fusible links has finally had enough of the excess current draw and has gone open on ya. The thing here is, if you only repair the fusible link without repairing the headlight fault, the new fusible link very likely will go open again due to the excess current draw.
Just wondering, do you have factory style headlights, or are they some type of aftermarket super bright units?
Hi, in the past at times randomly my headlights and interior dash lights would go out for maybe 2 or 3 seconds at a time and then turn back on. It had only happened once or twice so I figured it wasn't a major deal but of course I was wrong. Yesterday after going fishing I start the car as normal, but after a few short moments all my lights go out and don't come back. My headlights did not work, which wasn't great as it was pitch black outside and I had to drive behind a friend as there aren't any lights on some of the roads around me. I also noticed that my trunk latch button did not work either while the lights were out. Also the light that manually comes on when the door is opened also did not work. The only ones that worked were my hazards. I don't know much about cars and I know far less about electrical problems. I'd really appreciate any ideas on what might be going wrong, or what I should check/test. I will note that my trunk latch button started working again after not being driven, and then proceeded to be unopen able after being driven again.
Looking at the wire diagrams and looking at what you have said wasn't working you seem to have issues with multiple circuits, which would make the fusible links at the starter suspect.
The trunk latch button and the door jam switches are fed from the ACC fuse, which are fed power from a fusible link. The head light switch has two 12vdc power wires coming to, one from the tail light fuse and one coming from a fusible link. AustinThirdGen.Org (archive.org) Wayback Machine (archive.org) Wayback Machine (archive.org) Wayback Machine (archive.org)
Looking at the wire diagrams and looking at what you have said wasn't working you seem to have issues with multiple circuits, which would make the fusible links at the starter suspect.
The trunk latch button and the door jam switches are fed from the ACC fuse, which are fed power from a fusible link. The head light switch has two 12vdc power wires coming to, one from the tail light fuse and one coming from a fusible link. AustinThirdGen.Org (archive.org) Wayback Machine (archive.org) Wayback Machine (archive.org) Wayback Machine (archive.org)
Just a heads up, the site is back online with all of the original wiring diagrams. It will load images faster than waybackmachine will:
HI guys, I appreciate all the solid information. I got under the hood today to check out the fusible links which to my knowledge look fine, my fuse box looks normal as well. I also believe the wires going into the headlight units themselves are okay, but I'm going to take a second look at things just to make sure.( Not sure id I could even tell visually that there would be something wrong with the box). However I took some pictures of a part I believe is certainly broken, don't know if it pertains to this problem but if any knowledge about this broken part could be given that would be dope. I know its just a broken fitting but what does that outlet control?
My headlights are I believe some OEM replacement, they do have halogen written on them, but they are not that bright. Also this might sound dumb but I have never known if this car has highbeams. I don't know if mine don't work or what but there is only one setting which is on an off at least for me.
What is this part I have no idea, but it definitely needs to go. The part is located on the drivers side.
Last edited by JacobM123; May 6, 2023 at 01:56 PM.
Hi Jacob, That is the power steering pressure switch. It's function is to "tell" the ECM when there is an increased load on the power steering system (wheels turned to full lock, for instance) which will allow the ECM to keep the engine's RPM steady despite the increased load on the engine. You will find it in the handy wiring diagram listed as "Power Steering Switch" in post #10. Anyway, yes that needs to be replaced pronto, when it totally rots apart it's likely gonna cause power steering fluid to squirt all over the place. Now, to answer your real question, no, unfortunately that cannot possibly have anything to do with your loss of power to your headlights problem, which sounds like a bad connection somewhere, the trick is gonna be finding out where that somewhere is. It would be helpful to try each and every electrical device, taking note of what works and what don't, this may help isolate where the circuit fault is. Lastly, as to your high beams, when you pull the turn signal lever towards you with the headlight switch on, do you hear a switch click?
Last edited by OrangeBird; May 6, 2023 at 06:47 PM.
Reason: correction of wiring diagram......
Hi Jacob, That is the power steering pressure switch. It's function is to "tell" the ECM when there is an increased load on the power steering system (wheels turned to full lock, for instance) which will allow the ECM to keep the engine's RPM steady despite the increased load on the engine. You will find it in this handy wiring diagram listed as "Power Steering Switch". This leads me to a question, do you have a V6 or a V8 ? I ask because my diagrams only show it for the V6 and not the V8. Anyway, yes that needs to be replaced pronto, when it totally rots apart it's likely gonna cause power steering fluid to squirt all over the place. Now, to answer your real question, no, unfortunately that cannot possibly have anything to do with your loss of power to your headlights problem, which sounds like a bad connection somewhere, the trick is gonna be finding out where that somewhere is. It would be helpful to try each and every electrical device, taking note of what works and what don't, this may help isolate where the circuit fault is. Lastly, as to your high beams, when you pull the turn signal lever towards you with the headlight switch on, do you hear a switch click?
I have a 89 rs with the 305 tbi setup. Im having some trouble determining what does and doesn't work currently as they seem to work fine after the car has sit. Once I can get it in the situation of headlights and trunk latch not working I will determine everything that works. This car was sitting for a few years before I got it and although I had my mechanic look at it awhile ago, I don't think I had a full understanding as to the cars issues which left some problems unnoticed. I appreciate the info. I simply did not try that I guess for some reason, but one of my highbeams works and the other does not. When nothing is working though of course the high and low beams do not work. I will update this post later with what does and doesn't work and any other info I can find about the problem.
Hi Jacob, That is the power steering pressure switch. It's function is to "tell" the ECM when there is an increased load on the power steering system (wheels turned to full lock, for instance) which will allow the ECM to keep the engine's RPM steady despite the increased load on the engine. You will find it in the handy wiring diagram listed as "Power Steering Switch" in post #10. Anyway, yes that needs to be replaced pronto, when it totally rots apart it's likely gonna cause power steering fluid to squirt all over the place. Now, to answer your real question, no, unfortunately that cannot possibly have anything to do with your loss of power to your headlights problem, which sounds like a bad connection somewhere, the trick is gonna be finding out where that somewhere is. It would be helpful to try each and every electrical device, taking note of what works and what don't, this may help isolate where the circuit fault is. Lastly, as to your high beams, when you pull the turn signal lever towards you with the headlight switch on, do you hear a switch click?
Doesn't that pressure switch just cut off the A/C compressor under high load/low RPM conditions?...
Doesn't that pressure switch just cut off the A/C compressor under high load/low RPM conditions?...
Hi TL,
The switch the OP showed is plumbed into the power steering's high pressure line, and is not in control of the A/C that I know of, I believe it's function is to allow the ECM to keep the RPMs steady when turning the steering wheel at idle/low engine speeds. Here is a pic of the hose, the supplied block off plug is for applications that don't use that sensor, and a pic of the sensor itself.
From the look of how crusty the OP's sensor is, and with the likelyhood of the sensor crumbling and leaving the threaded end in the hose, the OP may do well to buy both the sensor and the hose when he does the repair.
