Just got my 88 L98 motor. I'm going to put it in my car and was wondering what you guys think. Complete rebuild,bored .30 over,federal mogul bearings,zz4 or zz9 cam,Port the iron heads. Anything Else I should use? Anyone got a guess on what this thing might run?

 

also need a parts list. The motor is out of a 88 iroc. It's going into my 85 tpi car. All I have is the block,rods,pistons,crannk(the whole lower end) plus the heads.

Question 1.) What stuff from my 85 will convert over?
Question 2.) what oil pump and pan should I get?

Thanks guys

 

How much of the engine did you get: TPI, harness, ECM? The '88 TPI is a much better system than the '85, and the heads have different angle bolts for the center two on the '88. You can get your base to fit, but it's not a direct bolt-on.

Assuming you need a rebuild, 350 kits with forged or hypereutectic pistons are easily available and relatively cheap. You should determine how much overbore is required and what undersize the crank will be turned before ordering the kit, and the pistons should be available to the machine shop before they do the final hone on the bores. The pistons should also be pressed onto the rods by the shop.

ARP rod bolts are a good idea, as is having the rods resized. Scoogin-Dickey had a ZZ4 pump/pan take-off deal a while back, that would be a good choice (has baffle as well). That's what I have on my 305. Have the heads converted to screw-in rocker studs and the guides machined for positive stem seals.

You should also port your plenum and base. The stock runners aren't all that great, shorter larger ones would match the cams you're talking about much better. Adjustable fuel pressure regulator is a must, larger 22 lb injectors a good idea.

You've got to do something about the exhaust. Headers, 3" cat and cat back a very good idea.

About the only things that will transfer from your 305 are the engine mounts and accessories. Your flex plate won't even work (you need a one-piece rear main seal type).

You've got a lot of work ahead of you, but you're moving in the right direction. With good gears, higher stall torque converter, and traction, you should see high 13's at sea level.

 

Only thing I have is the engine. The knock sensor is even still there. I'm going to buy a 88 intake manifold and port it. Then put all of my tpi stuff back on it.

Will I need to get a new distributor? I'm going to use the zz4 cam and probably not bore the engine. Rebuild w/new pistons and rods.

I have already ported my plenum, and have a Holley AFPR.

Do you know the part number for that flex plate? I still have the 350 flywheel.

Sorry for so many ?'s. This is my 1st attempt at rebuilding a motor.

 

If you aren't going to rebore, why are you getting new pistons? Unless there is something wrong with the pistons in it now, cleaning them up and putting new rings on them is fine. If that isn't fine, most likely you need a rebore. Why new rods? If you're doing something that makes the factory rods unacceptable, then you're doing something that justifies a rebore. Rods can be resized, but that requires removing the pistons, which is a machine shop job. ARP or other upgrade rod bolts are a good idea while the engine's apart anyway, but different rods don't make much sense. Just wondering, you seem to be going down contrary paths here.

Did the L98 have a flexplate or flywheel on it? If flexplate (and that's the only way they came in 3rd gens), then you don't need another one - it'll bolt to your tranny. Your current one just won't bolt to the L98, that's all.

You don't need a new distributor, but a "melonized" gear is required for the roller cam. They're available from GMPP (assuming you didn't get the L98 distributor).

I have an '87-later base, and distributor with the proper gear. I haven't decided if I'm going to switch to TPI yet, but I'd be willing to trade my base and distributor gear for yours - then we'd both have what we need.

 

I was planning on going all forged. So I could run NOS.

I have the flexplate, and no I didn't get the ditributor.

So All I really need to do is re-ring this thing and I should be ready to go? After I port the heads and have them matched to my zz4 cam.

 

If you plan on spraying it, you should go forged and have it rebored to get it all straight first. It will cost you more to do, but getting the bottom end up to snuff is critical for NOx.