Ok, I just got a 305 out of a 81 Chevy van from my uncle. It was rebuilt and had only 10,000 miles on it before his wife hit a deer with it and totaled it out. I'm guessing that has about the same horsepower as the orginal 305 in the car, which is about 140-145. How much horsepower would I gain from Hedman shorty headers running 3in exaust pipe to daul glasspacks minus the catyletic converters. A Edelbrock EPS dual plane manifold, K&N filter, and removing of all the air conditioning components. Also will a 350 trans out of that van fit in my 82 z28 with having to change anything. Any idea on 1/4 mile times. I'm still running the stock gears which I think are 2;73.

 

Well ... from my experience with these engines, an exhaust wont REALLY give you that much power. The only thing that might give a real boost in power is the intake, but the stock cam/heads wont exceed the flow of the stock intake. Basicly, add a cam or heads or both and then you would need it. While the engine is out grab a good cam, because otherwise you wont be making much more than about 40 hp over stock.

 

I'd swap out that crappy truck/van cam before installing it, they tend to use lift/duration/LSA configurations that favor low-end pulling and fall flat at higher revs.

The engine is not roller cam equipped from the factory so unless you want to drop major ~$500 cash on a retrofit cam and lifters you'll be shopping for a hydraulic flat tappet cam. There are plenty of good ones to choose from, determine your needs and talk to the manufacturers via their tech phone #. I used to really like the Edelbrock Torker II cam and intake kit for carbed cars, that was 10 years ago and there may be better options now.

Assuming your '82 currently has a TH200C trans, the driveshaft and torque arm should fit no problem. B&M makes a kit to do this very swap, as the TH200C was really problematic and swapping to TH350 trans was a popular swap.

 

How are the Summit cams? I was thinking about the one with
Duration@.050 Lift Lobe
Intake Exaust Intake Exaust Seperation
194 204 .398 .420 112

Do those numbers sound right for my engine?

 

Also, what kind of power would I be making with that cam and the above parts.

 

desktop dyno 2k says it would make 250 horsepower and 325 lbs/ft.

 

I'll beg to differ about the exhaust. The factory LG4 3rd gen exhaust is fine for one bank of cylinders, but they run both of them through it. You won't need dual 3" (dual 2" would be fine at this point, might as well go with 2-1/2" for the sake of growth), but at least get rid of that factory stuff, and don't get anything that is designed to bolt to it. And please, no glass packs.

That cam is a little on the small side, but you do need to be a little cautious if you retain the stock computer controlled carb. The computer-compatible Crane and Comp cams will do wonders compared to those "store-brand" grinds. You should change valve springs as well when you go to additional lift. If you raise the power band significantly, you should also consider a higher stall torque converter. Oh, stay away from those Edelbrock grinds, they are definately "old school".

A porting job on those heads would help the cam and exhaust do their thing a lot better than the heads in stock condition could ever do. That's getting into it a lot more than you indicated, but the rewards are significant.

 

Why not glasspacks?

 

The worst of both worlds - loud and restrictive.

 

What are some cheaper parts that you dont have to open up the engine for that would give me some more power?

 

Exhaust - headers, high-flow y-pipe and cat, cat-back.

 

Anymore besides the ones listed above in the post.

 

Using your stated criteria of not opening up the engine, exhaust and air cleaner are the only things that bolt onto the engine. You could say intake manifold, but a performance intake really doesn't help much until you get into cam and head work.

I just realized air cleaner hadn't been mentioned yet. The single-snorkel factory air cleaner is very restrictive. When the exhaust is improved, the air flow into the carb needs to be improved as well, and a dual-snorkel air cleaner, either of the factory variety or homemade, is the way to go there.

Other than that, tuning of the secondaries (rods, hanger).

 

I think i'm going to self port the heads. How big of a cam can I get without going and changing valve springs,roller rockers,etc.

 

Stock valve springs are pretty poor examples of the art. Decent springs aren't that expensive, and if you port the heads, the valves have to come out, anyway. Great time to put on some springs that have some room to grow.

My stock springs would float at 5200 RPMs. I put on springs from Competition Products that cost $25/set (I ordered them with the heads, a slight upgrade from what they normally ship with them). I've had this engine to 6300 RPMs several times without a hint of float.

Valve springs is no place to scrimp.

 

I think I'm going to try a first time porting job this winter on my 305 heads. I plan on gettin the edelbrock eps dual plane intake maniflod. Headers to true duals. Cam. Torque converter. K&N
Maybe eventually better gears, running 2:73's right now.

Are long tube headers a problem getting into thirdgen cars? Would long tube headers have any performance gain over shorty headers? Just wondering because I thought the long tubes would be better since I'm going with true duels.

Now for the cam, how would the summit 224/224 with .465in. and ex. lift be for my engine. What would be some good and well priced springs to go with that?

How would the summit 1,800-2,200rpm stall converter work for this setup? If not, what would be a good size stall? I have a 350 trans incase some havent read above.


Thanks for all the help

 

Long tubes wouldn't have any particular advantage with the engine you describe, and would complicate installation and ground clearance considerably. You might want to consider Hooker 2460's or Hedman shorties and run your duals off them.

I haven't heard a lot about the Edelbrock EPS. What I have heard doesn't impress me over a Weiand Action +. But, the EPS should be fine.

I'm also no particular fan of K&N's. Flow nicely, but don't filter the dirt out any better than a paper element (although they will hold more of what they do filter out than paper). The AMSOIL oiled open-cell foam element does the flowing (as much as a K&N) and filtering (both particle size and capacity). Lifetime guarantee.

Otherwise, sounds like you're on the right track.

 

Ok I will run the hedman shorties than, where would I find that amzoil air filter? What is the price on that air filter? Again, thanks for all the help.

 

www.amsoil.com

There's a link for determining your application, and for ordering. Cost is typically less than the K&N.

 

How much horsepower and torque would I be making?

First time porting job on my 305 heads. Edelbrock eps dual plane intake maniflod.Hedman Shorty Headers to true duals minus the catyletic converters. Summit 224/224 with .465in. and ex. lift Cam.

 

"305" and "power" in the same sentence...that is funny!

 

I know someone stated that this setup will produce 250 horse but I was born at night but not last night...stock it put out 140 horse maybe?? and I mean maybe. So 90 horse with his mods....not buyin it..sorry. Im guessin 185 tops. Build that 305 then have it dynoed. goodluck with that buildup.

 

Long tube headers would probably flow too much for you particular application. Also, how do you plan on running true dual? I didn't think there was enough room for that? And, save the money for the torque converter to put towards new gears in the back.

 

You can buy roller lifters and cams off of e-bay or the internet for about $$200-300. You could even go solid roller, this is what i am doing; it costs about the same.

 

How would the crane energy cam and lifter kit be?
Would a 216/216 with .450 lift be alright?
Is the torque converter not that big of a deal, I thought it helped get the power to the ground. Or is it with the amount of power I will making that I wont need a bigger one?

 

Take a gander at this. http://www.goingfaster.com/spo/325_h...chevrolet.html

 

Wow, thanks for that site.

 

I am now thinking of running the Crane Energy cam and lifter kit.
222/222 with .467"/.467" lift and 110 degree lobe seperation.
That seems pretty close to the cam they are running on that site.
Think of these crane valve springs since they recommended them on the summit website below the cam. Part number
CRN-99848-16 on summit website. Would these be good for that cam? Also when I put in the cam, will I need valve spring retainers and valve locks too?

 

I went to the link about car craft and the 82 camaro with the 305 which i happen to like. The 197 horse thou sounds a tad bit high. 82' camaro was what 150 horse? Going from 150 horse to 197 horse with just headers and cat back setup just aint gonna happen. That's close enough to call it 50 horse power..sorry dont buy it. Building power in the 305 can be done but 50 horse from headers and mufflers?? Not trying to be a royal pain in the wazoo here but lets get real..350 horse out of a 305?? you bet it can be done!!! But 50 horse from headers and mufflers?? Jesus im headin out right now to buy some...lol...Later and keep us updated on that 305...

 

I got a 305 ProCharged with 350 rear wheel HP.

Willie can back me up on this too!

Go home!

 

first off, heres what you do

1. call scrap yard, and have them pick up that anchor 305 of yours.

2. dont put glasspacks on, OPEN HEADERS

3. as for the header......GET SOME CUSTOM MADE 1-7/8 primary, 4" collector.

4. go get a chevy 350 out of a pick-up (4-bolt main) you can get that from the same scrap yard that takes your 305.

5. go find a really nice machine shop and have them build the fu(k out of it.

6. remember you need atleast 600hp to lift the wheels off the ground.

7. holley makes a really nice No2 kit for 4-barrel carbs. you can spray a good 300hp shot (make sure your motors built for it.

8. BODY TIES AND ROLL-CAGE

9. lighten that bit(h up (take out all unessaccary stuff..ie. carpet, seats, radio, dash, counsol

10. STEEL BODY PANELS ARE HEAVY!!!! REPLACE ALL WITH FIBERGLASS, OR IF YOU HAVE THE MONEY, CARBON FIBER.

11. tub the rear...with almost 900hp you need to get some pretty big tires under those fender.

12. transmisstion. 2-speed powerglide or a jerrico 4-speed manual should do the trick if you can build them.

13. that stock 7-1/2" rear will probably blow up, so you must change over to a beefy ford 9"

14. GLASS IS FOR HOUSES, LEXAN IS FOR REAL CARS.

15. go buy a NHRA rule book, you will have to comply with some of their rules.

16. go have fun at the local tracks.

17. dont forget to show those damn fords whos boss

 

You forgot to mention WIN LOTTERY to pay for all of that stuff!

 

Ya, when i win the lottery. I dont want a strip car anyway and no where near that much power.