New engine for my '91 Z28
New engine for my '91 Z28
Hey guys, I'm needing a new engine for my Camaro. Since I was going ahead and having to spend the money, I was wanting to make it a little faster (tired of getting smoked by every mustang on the road). Anyways, my car right now is a '91 stock Z28 with the l98 engine.
I'm wanting to make the car faster of course, and I was thinking it would be great to run something like high 12s (oooh ahh). How resonable is this and is it possible? And another thing is always money, I can get the money, but its nice to know how much I have to sacrifice or how much I will need. So what are we talking here?
Another thing, I've been reading about all the "other" stuff besides just getting the new more powerful engine. You gotta make sure your car can handle it. The transmission the 700r4 I believe its called, it's not gonna hold up is it? The rear (a 3.23 limited slip I believe), that is gonna need to be replaced too right? and the body, is that just gonna twist and bend when I hit the gas?
So my question is, if I want to run 12s or something like that. Where do I start? I'm going to go talk to some mechanics next week. I thought I would ask on here first though! Thanks guys....
I'm wanting to make the car faster of course, and I was thinking it would be great to run something like high 12s (oooh ahh). How resonable is this and is it possible? And another thing is always money, I can get the money, but its nice to know how much I have to sacrifice or how much I will need. So what are we talking here?
Another thing, I've been reading about all the "other" stuff besides just getting the new more powerful engine. You gotta make sure your car can handle it. The transmission the 700r4 I believe its called, it's not gonna hold up is it? The rear (a 3.23 limited slip I believe), that is gonna need to be replaced too right? and the body, is that just gonna twist and bend when I hit the gas?
So my question is, if I want to run 12s or something like that. Where do I start? I'm going to go talk to some mechanics next week. I thought I would ask on here first though! Thanks guys....
Last edited by Ancel Zero; Jan 9, 2003 at 03:16 PM.
Originally posted by Z28DJP1987
A high 12 sec car may not make for a good daily driver.
A high 12 sec car may not make for a good daily driver.
gm 350/ 330 hp ho deluxe. hedman shorty headers, y-pipe, 3inch catback(no cat with a cutout, running into a flowmaster 60 series muffler, rator 700r4 performance transmission with a 2300 stall and a corvette servo.
Brandon
The car will get plenty of street driving, so I dont want to just make a drag racer. Also, yes, the L98 is the 350 TPI.
I need a new engine though, or to rebuild this one (it has nearly 200,000 miles on it, and burns the oil nicely). I don't think that adding some performance parts to it would be a wise idea without first rebuilding the motor or something.
I need a new engine though, or to rebuild this one (it has nearly 200,000 miles on it, and burns the oil nicely). I don't think that adding some performance parts to it would be a wise idea without first rebuilding the motor or something.
Joined: Mar 2000
Posts: 43,187
Likes: 42
From: Littleton, CO USA
Car: 82 Berlinetta/57 Bel Air
Engine: L92/LQ4 (both w/4" stroke)
Transmission: 4L80E/4L80E
Axle/Gears: 12B-3.73/9"-3.89
Re: New engine for my '91 Z28
Originally posted by Ancel Zero
The transmission the 700r4 I believe its called, it's not gonna hold up is it?
The transmission the 700r4 I believe its called, it's not gonna hold up is it?
Street/strip tranny and lock-up torque converter will run you about $1700 plus shipping. But, it will hold up.
The best way to 12's in a regularly-street-driven car is to spray. So, yes, rebuild it first and use parts that will stand up to the abuse that the required power will dish out on them. Figure on plenty of suspension mods to get the power to the ground and keep the windows from popping out.
Originally posted by Ancel Zero
The car will get plenty of street driving, so I dont want to just make a drag racer. Also, yes, the L98 is the 350 TPI.
I need a new engine though, or to rebuild this one (it has nearly 200,000 miles on it, and burns the oil nicely). I don't think that adding some performance parts to it would be a wise idea without first rebuilding the motor or something.
The car will get plenty of street driving, so I dont want to just make a drag racer. Also, yes, the L98 is the 350 TPI.
I need a new engine though, or to rebuild this one (it has nearly 200,000 miles on it, and burns the oil nicely). I don't think that adding some performance parts to it would be a wise idea without first rebuilding the motor or something.
Brandon
ok I found an engine I'd like to put in the car. It's a 360 HP TPI Vortec Engine from SDPC2000.com. http://www.sdpc2000.com/cart.asp?act...art&catid=1577
With that engine, it is TPI, but I assume that my current fuel pump, injectors, etc... will not be enough to feed it?
They say that engine has 357 horsepower and 416 ft/lbs of torque. That sounds like enough to make me happy
My question now is. What do I need to do before I put that bad boy in. Again, like suspension, what are all we talking about as far as suspension upgrades. I was gonna order some Koni Sport "Yellows" Shocks & Struts from Spohn.com this week. What else I need as far as that goes? As far the transmission I assume that my stock transmission wont hold up or my whole drive line for that matter. What do I need to do to keep my car from tearing apart if I put that in.
'91 Z28, L98 everything stock
With that engine, it is TPI, but I assume that my current fuel pump, injectors, etc... will not be enough to feed it?
They say that engine has 357 horsepower and 416 ft/lbs of torque. That sounds like enough to make me happy
My question now is. What do I need to do before I put that bad boy in. Again, like suspension, what are all we talking about as far as suspension upgrades. I was gonna order some Koni Sport "Yellows" Shocks & Struts from Spohn.com this week. What else I need as far as that goes? As far the transmission I assume that my stock transmission wont hold up or my whole drive line for that matter. What do I need to do to keep my car from tearing apart if I put that in.
'91 Z28, L98 everything stock
Last edited by Ancel Zero; Jan 9, 2003 at 08:21 PM.
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Originally posted by Ancel Zero
My question now is. What do I need to do before I put that bad boy in. Again, like suspension, what are all we talking about as far as suspension upgrades. I was gonna order some Koni Sport "Yellows" Shocks & Struts from Spohn.com this week. What else I need as far as that goes? As far the transmission I assume that my stock transmission wont hold up or my whole drive line for that matter. What do I need to do to keep my car from tearing apart if I put that in.
'91 Z28, L98 everything stock
My question now is. What do I need to do before I put that bad boy in. Again, like suspension, what are all we talking about as far as suspension upgrades. I was gonna order some Koni Sport "Yellows" Shocks & Struts from Spohn.com this week. What else I need as far as that goes? As far the transmission I assume that my stock transmission wont hold up or my whole drive line for that matter. What do I need to do to keep my car from tearing apart if I put that in.
'91 Z28, L98 everything stock
As for the rear, you should be ok. Dont get me wrong, it will break eventually. It will break quicker with a good amount of nitrous or the use of slicks.
A 12-bolt or a 9" would be great.
Originally posted by vwdave
So, the idea of a 383 stroker never occured to you? Pick up some ported Vortecs and the manifold from SDPC and IMO, you'll have around 390-400.
So, the idea of a 383 stroker never occured to you? Pick up some ported Vortecs and the manifold from SDPC and IMO, you'll have around 390-400.
cuz ive been thinking about the exact same idea
ok, 383 stroker sounds good. How about this. Keeping my TPI setup. I assume that will work? How much power will I loose if I do keep the same. Or... if I get new runners, throttle body, etc... will that make up for it? I hear the limit with tpi is the air flow right? Those stupid little runners choke it?
How about something like that Holly StealthRam MFPI Intake Manifold http://www.thunderracing.com/index.c...ategoryid=1125 . Is that gonna feed it enough air if that is the problem. Or am I forced to go over to the carb world.
Member
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 391
Likes: 0
From: Sacramento,Ca.
Car: 90 Formula
Engine: 355 C.I.
Transmission: 5 Speed
Axle/Gears: 3.42
Motors gone so you need it right now ?
It ain't nothin but money. You can go as deep as your pockets will take you and your talking a place that I don't wanna go .. Do yourself a big favor. Go out and get every book you can possibly find. Read Lingenfelters book.. Get the Chevy Power Catalog. Get the books on modifing cylinder heads, get the casting # books and anything else you can find. get some knowledge from multiple sorces including here. Take all that knowledge and put something together that's more realistic for your bank account. Unless your rich or something......If you stay with a TPI manifold do the MadMax port to it. It works great and I didn't even go as deep as he did. But .. take all the things you learn and build you a motor the way you are going to use it. I have done all this and started collecting pieces over a years time. I couldn't be happier.
The cylinder heads are the place where it all begins. Don't buy any internal pieces untill you have your heads. The rest of your engine becomes a processing agent for air, fuel and exhaust. Don't be sold on the 305 head deal either. That has cracked head mess writen all over it in my opinion. Read, learn and decide yourself..
It ain't nothin but money. You can go as deep as your pockets will take you and your talking a place that I don't wanna go .. Do yourself a big favor. Go out and get every book you can possibly find. Read Lingenfelters book.. Get the Chevy Power Catalog. Get the books on modifing cylinder heads, get the casting # books and anything else you can find. get some knowledge from multiple sorces including here. Take all that knowledge and put something together that's more realistic for your bank account. Unless your rich or something......If you stay with a TPI manifold do the MadMax port to it. It works great and I didn't even go as deep as he did. But .. take all the things you learn and build you a motor the way you are going to use it. I have done all this and started collecting pieces over a years time. I couldn't be happier.
The cylinder heads are the place where it all begins. Don't buy any internal pieces untill you have your heads. The rest of your engine becomes a processing agent for air, fuel and exhaust. Don't be sold on the 305 head deal either. That has cracked head mess writen all over it in my opinion. Read, learn and decide yourself..
I have heard of alot of 406 TPI's.
It would be best to get some Edelbrock Base and runners. Unless you are getting Vortec heads, cause then you would need their special base intake for it to work.
Port your Plenum(sp) and get a 52MM or 58MM throttle body.
It would be a good idea to get bigger injectors and get a chip burned for all this.
It would be best to get some Edelbrock Base and runners. Unless you are getting Vortec heads, cause then you would need their special base intake for it to work.
Port your Plenum(sp) and get a 52MM or 58MM throttle body.
It would be a good idea to get bigger injectors and get a chip burned for all this.
Member
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 183
Likes: 0
From: Hinton, Alberta. Canada
Car: 1985 Camaro Z28
Engine: Caprice LT1
Transmission: 4L60E
Axle/Gears: 3.23
That stealth ram would be a good choice, you should specify a budget as well.
Your going to need traction and power to get into the twelves, those two things together might bust up your stock driveline.
Have you considered rebuilding your own engine? It would save a lot of money that you could put into performance parts. Make sure you put in a good exhaust system as well.
Your going to need traction and power to get into the twelves, those two things together might bust up your stock driveline.
Have you considered rebuilding your own engine? It would save a lot of money that you could put into performance parts. Make sure you put in a good exhaust system as well.
I'd more than love to build my own engine... The only thing is, I'm only 20, still in school, and have a job as well... that means not much free time. I was at the point that I wanted to buy a new(er) camaro, but I figured for that much money I could fix mine up... besides that I think the 3rd gens beat all camaros as far as looks (oh yeah!) My first car was a '92 RS that I bought a while back, then I sold that one and bought the Z28 I have now. I was looking at getting someone to rebuild the engine, I've talked to a few people around here and they have told me of some good places to go to get it done. I am sure they will want some damn awefule amount for what I want done though... ugh... 383 stroker anyone?
Anyways, would it be good to just get the engine done now since I need it? Then worry about building up my tranny later, and last work on the traction issue so I can actually move.
1. Engine
2. Tranny
3. Suspension
or should I reverse the 3?
I'll do the suspension myself and the exaust (friend has welding tools)
NOW TO JUST GET STARTED....
Anyways, would it be good to just get the engine done now since I need it? Then worry about building up my tranny later, and last work on the traction issue so I can actually move.
1. Engine
2. Tranny
3. Suspension
or should I reverse the 3?
I'll do the suspension myself and the exaust (friend has welding tools)
NOW TO JUST GET STARTED....
Last edited by Ancel Zero; Jan 11, 2003 at 10:58 PM.
Supreme Member
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 2,119
Likes: 0
From: Central NJ
Car: 86 Iroc-Z28
Engine: FB385
Transmission: 700r4
You should be fine with that order! Just try to do the tranny and engine at the same time. Remember, if you buy a new motor ,it needs to be broken in, so save for the suspension parts while you "take it easy" for the first few weeks. The 87 and later trannies were the strongest, nothing you can do about it unless you go out and get one of those trannies, but if you are going to do that, might as well get a better one to start out with, like a 350, or even a t56 if you have the cash to do a swap. I stayed with my 86 tranny, $1k worth of "beefing" up and another $700 for the vigilante stall. For the suspension, try the link above ,Spohn Performance. If you don't like what he has, or his prices, shop around. Whatever he has, most any suspension company will have, but Steve's stuff is pretty damn good. It also doesn't hurt to do a search on different things. Try it, you will be surprised with what you find doing a search on here. Good luck
soo... 383 stroker kit, rebuild the engine, what's some good heads for it? I know vortec heads wont fit with the Stealthram I was looking at. Put the Holley StealthRam on it. Do I need bigger fuel injectors? How about the fuel pump? The fuel pump is new, so its not the stock one, but I'm not sure what it's capacity is. Good exaust of course. Dont want to choke the poor thing.
and if all goes well, how much power are we talking? any estimates? I read somewhere a guy did the 383 stroker with the stock tpi I think, and he was only getting 289 hp with way over 400 tq. IS that Holly stealthram gonna work well, and will I need new fuel injectors and fuel pump. Oh yeah tunning and programming the PROM (right?) as well.... I'm still working and pricing what I want. Any suggestions?
Thanks to all for advice!
and if all goes well, how much power are we talking? any estimates? I read somewhere a guy did the 383 stroker with the stock tpi I think, and he was only getting 289 hp with way over 400 tq. IS that Holly stealthram gonna work well, and will I need new fuel injectors and fuel pump. Oh yeah tunning and programming the PROM (right?) as well.... I'm still working and pricing what I want. Any suggestions?
Thanks to all for advice!
Last edited by Ancel Zero; Jan 12, 2003 at 11:02 PM.
Supreme Member
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 2,119
Likes: 0
From: Central NJ
Car: 86 Iroc-Z28
Engine: FB385
Transmission: 700r4
Well, looks like your doing some searching! Look into the info a bit more. If you are talking about Mike Crews' motor, he is using the Scoggin-Dickey intake set up and making that power. That is what happend when you use a runner design for an intake. Major bottom end and not so great top end. It is still a great set up so far and just one of the ways to go about going fast! The Stealth ram is another story. It is a middle point between the miniram/lt1 intake, and the super ram. Great price too. For fuel injectors, 24 should be ok, maybe some 26s or 30lb'ers. For a chip, check out www.fastchip.com, or do a search on burning your own. For power estimates, your questions are very vague. There are guys with "383s" running 14s, and there are guys running 12s with them. It all depends on your budget too. Look around, get some ideas, ask people questions with motors you like, get a parts list you think will work, then start asking more questions. Seems like your reaching for answers right now. Come up with what you think would work after doing some reading and then ask around. Its pretty much fool proof when you see a combo that works and you try to do it yourself. IMO any way. There are tons of people willing to help you, just find a concrete starting point b/c it seems like to me, if you start to read up on say the LT1 intake, next week you will want to "throw" that on a 383. good luck
Supreme Member
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 2,119
Likes: 0
From: Central NJ
Car: 86 Iroc-Z28
Engine: FB385
Transmission: 700r4
Constructive Crticism, check into it! Not too sure how to read into your last post, but don't care too much either. I am a peon compared to others who can help you on this site. Hope you find what you are looking for, whatever it is. good luck
Member
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 391
Likes: 0
From: Sacramento,Ca.
Car: 90 Formula
Engine: 355 C.I.
Transmission: 5 Speed
Axle/Gears: 3.42
[B]I like you motor. Nicely done. Would you share the details?[/B]
Sure, 1990 Formula, 355ci, WS6, 5 speed
* Ported & Polished Cylinder Heads 993 castings
* 2.02 & 1.6 Manley Pro-Flo Valves
* G.M.P.P. Ram Jet Roller Cam Part # 14097395
* Harland Sharp 1.6 Ratio Roller Rockers
* Speed Pro/TRW 1.25 Dome Forged Pistons
* Balanced Lower End
* Ported and Gasket Matched Intake Plentum, Runners and Manifold
* 52MM Holley Throttle Body
* Custom built Adjustable Fuel Pressure Regulator Set at 46 lbs ( 51 under Full Throttle )
* Edlebrock Chrome T.E.S. Headers -- 50 State legal --
* High-Flow 3" Cat with 3" Flowmaster Cat Back System
* Throttle body direct mount air filter
It is a rocket, I tried to utilize the volumetric efficiency theory to build power and I think I have done very well. A smaller cam with the most lift I could sqweeze out of it with the 1.6 rockers, then give it a free path in and out so it can produce massive volumes of air and fuel quickly.. I like this set up...
Volumetric efficieny is cubic inches of air/fuel the engine uses in 2 revolutions. pushing max torque upward to the crossing point of horsepower in the RPM curve allows for better effeciency. The TPI system max's out in output at a certain grams per second ( 255 ) anyway so to bring torque up quick enough you can utlize the torque to get to the horsepower peak quicker. In my opinion a large cam seperates the torque and H.P. to far apart and actually pushes the effeciency to the down side. A 350 actually could end up with the efficiency of a 283 even though it has the right bore and stroke. All these folks looking for more manifold air could be looking in the wrong place. Just cause a motor dyno's good horsepower doesn't make it fast. Just because a motor can't hit peak air flow doesn't mean it wouldn't. Use the torque to help wind it quicker and it will max out air flow in grams per second.
* Ported & Polished Cylinder Heads 993 castings
* 2.02 & 1.6 Manley Pro-Flo Valves
* G.M.P.P. Ram Jet Roller Cam Part # 14097395
* Harland Sharp 1.6 Ratio Roller Rockers
* Speed Pro/TRW 1.25 Dome Forged Pistons
* Balanced Lower End
* Ported and Gasket Matched Intake Plentum, Runners and Manifold
* 52MM Holley Throttle Body
* Custom built Adjustable Fuel Pressure Regulator Set at 46 lbs ( 51 under Full Throttle )
* Edlebrock Chrome T.E.S. Headers -- 50 State legal --
* High-Flow 3" Cat with 3" Flowmaster Cat Back System
* Throttle body direct mount air filter
It is a rocket, I tried to utilize the volumetric efficiency theory to build power and I think I have done very well. A smaller cam with the most lift I could sqweeze out of it with the 1.6 rockers, then give it a free path in and out so it can produce massive volumes of air and fuel quickly.. I like this set up...
Volumetric efficieny is cubic inches of air/fuel the engine uses in 2 revolutions. pushing max torque upward to the crossing point of horsepower in the RPM curve allows for better effeciency. The TPI system max's out in output at a certain grams per second ( 255 ) anyway so to bring torque up quick enough you can utlize the torque to get to the horsepower peak quicker. In my opinion a large cam seperates the torque and H.P. to far apart and actually pushes the effeciency to the down side. A 350 actually could end up with the efficiency of a 283 even though it has the right bore and stroke. All these folks looking for more manifold air could be looking in the wrong place. Just cause a motor dyno's good horsepower doesn't make it fast. Just because a motor can't hit peak air flow doesn't mean it wouldn't. Use the torque to help wind it quicker and it will max out air flow in grams per second.
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