Anyone with any info on putting a TPI on a GM, Dart, or Donovan Aluminum block ? Are these blocks two piece rear seal or a one piece rear seal, I would rather not use an adapter.

 

welcome to the boards!!

if you are going to spend money on a aftermarket aluminum block, i would spend more money and put a better fuel system on then the TPI. I dont know if they are 1 or 2 piece seals, but you just will have to get the right flywheel.

 

Well, I think the TPI system is one of the best out there, especially for or heavy cars. I have ported plenum and accel runners on a 305 stock under the vavle covers doing 13.939 @100.54 mph. Maybe a DFI and lower intake and some porting, but not something different. I'm going lite weight not high cost, hence aluminum block using older aluminum heads and My TPI.

 

I ran that 13.939 with a 1le 305 5-speed with only exterior engine mods. I think it would be quicker if I could hook better, running 315 drag radials and just cant get of the line very quick. that why im going lighter
next mods, k member-a arms, fiberglass hood, doors gutted no glass, rear plexi and fiberglass hatch etc.....

 

i believe the general consensus issssssssss.................

TPI chokes engines above 4500 RPMS, because of lack of air flow (in stock form- small runners, unported plenum, restrictive base)


However, it promotes torque because of the "dual plane" design- -------------------air velocity


if your building a motor where you want your power to be located in the higher RPM's TPI is going to be too restrictive because of the afformentioned

if you want a nice street car with seat of the pants torque, TPI is cool


i believe the general consensus behind an aluminum block, is that they are 99.99% of the time used for all out racing

All out racing+aluminum block= higher RPM's
stock tpi= does not let enough air in for high RPM useage

glad we're all on the same plane here (no pun intended)

 

TPI is a good setup for a stock engine, but not a built one, especially with an aluminum block.

BTW...i never said the TPI is a bad set-up.....because it isnt

 

Commonly asked question. A SBC is a SBC. You can put whatever you want on it, TPI included. The block itself doesnt care. Just make sure you dont get any tall deck block that may be floating around out there, all you want is a normal sized block like any other SBC. You'll want heads that match up to the intake, thats the only real issue. There is an 'early' intake bolt pattern (1900 -1986) and a 'late' bolt pattern (87-up). A TPI could be either, depends on what year it is.

And, cap the attitude. Otherwise, I will.

 

My mods and times.....They are straight up KGB, you will get more out of Bush than me

actually i am building a budget engine now, way under $400 that will deffintly be in the 13's.


If you want to stay with low rpm's, then yeah go with a TPI setup....you will have tons of TQ.

My personal opinion is build a very streetable engine with a redline around 6,000 and have tons of TQ and HP with either a carb or a miniram setup.

just my .02

 

thanks for the info, whats wrong with talk deck blocks ?

 

What's wrong with tall deck blocks, is that stock intakes don't fit them. The heads are in a different place, farther apart, so the intake has to be wider. Details.

But if you got a stock deck height aftermarket block, there's no reason TPI wouldn't go on it; it would just be a colossal waste of money on the block, that's all. It would be a little like putting a Rochester 2-barrel on a Fomula One motor. Expensive blocks intended for racing are deigned to withstand stresses far in excess of what a stock block will, and provide other features specifically intended to allow much greater than stock power outputs. Using TPI essentially guarantees that the engine's power level will be substantially less than an otherwise identical motor equiped with a run-of-the-mill carb, let alone anything resembling a perofrmance induction system; and that it will never see high enough RPMs to require 6-bolt main caps, dry sump oiling provisions, etc. etc.

As far as the rear main seal design, people have been making aftermarlet racing blocks since long before tha one-piece RMS was introduced; so I'd bet the vast majority of them you'd find are 2-piece, since people who race stuff like that couldn't care less what GM is putting in grocery carts these days, instead they care what fits the cranks and clutches and stuff that they already own.

 

Thank you, I really appreciate your valuable info. OK , I just want a bullet proof block that I'll never have to mess with and in putting a high HP low end in that would be just what I want. Besides NOS and turbo or supercharged motors can put out plenty of power. Even a natural asperted motor can get close to 450hp and 500 ft.lbs. with a ported TPI. So, I dont see such a collosal waste of money when just a good rocket block or other race block is also pricey. Why would I go through all the trouble to put a motor in and have to change to low end later on. Do it right the first time and I can always ad a huge intake or heads and such without pulling the whole engine. I think you analogy of a 2 barrel on a formula One is a bit drastic, they used to put a 2 barrel on a 400 small block and you can change it anytime you like. And for dry sump , no need, they do make wet sump and I would have to say that the 6 bolt mains are more about torque than HP , like a rear end or transmission. I dont see any 6 bolt main caps on any of the aluminum block by GM , Dart or Donovan in any of my catalogs or articles in April 1998 Hot Rod Mag listing of all aluminum blosk on the market, even big blocks, anyway the new LS1 motor aluminum, more main caps,Etc.. Etc.. Why? Protection money well spent. So your info was great, but your assumtions were wrong. Maybe you can see my ideas arent so far off now ?? Boy you guys really know have to show someone a good time Ha hA ha...LOL

 

Well, when I see people lashing back and forth at one another, I give a warning. If you dont like it, too bad, I dont care.