Engine Swap Everything about swapping an engine into your Third Gen.....be it V6, V8, LTX/LSX, crate engine, etc. Pictures, questions, answers, and work logs.

opinions please

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Old Apr 5, 2003 | 07:28 PM
  #1  
awdcamaro's Avatar
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From: Englewood, OH
opinions please

Ok, let's say I want to see around 350-400 hp and 400+ lbs/ft of torque at my rear wheels. My question to all of the knowledgable engine guys out there is this: what is my best option, L98, LT1, or LS1? I would like to do this as low-cost and effeciently as possible. I will not be doing a carb in this car, I'd never be able to afford all of the gas it would eat. Yes, the rear-wheel #'s are just for comparason, the engine will be put in the AWD set-up I've been developing ala Syclone. I'd just like to know which of these set-ups will develop the power I'd like to have to run all four of the wheels. If anyone has specific parts in their idea, please try to keep the cost down if at all possible. What I'm trying to do is eat Porches, not build one Thanks to everyone who reads the post and is sick of wasting all their power stoplight on the way to buy new rear tires.
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Old Apr 6, 2003 | 01:06 AM
  #2  
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From: I am all around you
Car: Formula
Engine: 5.0L
Transmission: 700R-4
I would say that you could do it from any one of those...If you realy want to keep low cost I suggest you read the "How to Build Max Performance Chevy Small Blocks on a Budget" tech manual. The author, David Vizard, is a veteran engine builder; by veteran I mean 40 years+. Most of the engines that are featured in this book are well below $2000; one is even below $1000. He explains how you can get well over 400 horses out of a 350 small block (and various other combinations) by properly preping and detailing the parts, increasing the efficiency of the oiling/watering system, proper port prep, and even exaust tuning. He also claims that in addition to more power you will efectively build an engine that will last 100,000 miles+. Very, very good book...it even has spelling errors in it, which tells me that it was made by mechanics for mechanics. I know that this is only a book and the opinion of one person but everything he talks about seems to be well backed and logical. If you follow this book there is know reason why you couldn't get closer to 500 horses on a well prepared 350. You should be able to find the book on amazon or summit's online catalog.
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Old Apr 6, 2003 | 09:26 PM
  #3  
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From: Englewood, OH
Hey, thanks 87daddyformula, that book is definately something i will look into when i get a chance. After looking it up, I find that it only covers the gen 1 blocks, any ideas about gen 2 or 3?

Last edited by awdcamaro; Apr 6, 2003 at 09:34 PM.
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Old Apr 7, 2003 | 12:00 PM
  #4  
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From: I am all around you
Car: Formula
Engine: 5.0L
Transmission: 700R-4
On the back cover there is a book advertised called" Small Block Chevy Performance Vol. 2 1982 and Later". This will probably cover what you are looking for. It was writen by John Baechtel. Looks to be the same caliber as the other one I mentioned...hope this helps.
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Old Apr 7, 2003 | 01:19 PM
  #5  
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From: Englewood, OH
That's what I love about this website, everyone is so helpful. Thanks yet again.
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Old Apr 7, 2003 | 03:03 PM
  #6  
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From: Annandale, VA
Car: 1991 Formula Firebird
Engine: 2001 LS1 Modded
Transmission: 2001 4L60E Yank SS3600 TC
Since you are not going carb L98 and LT1 are the most cost efficient. The L98 will produce gobs of torque and is cheap to build.

The LT1 makes great power up top where the L98 falls short. The LT1 also has better engine management and is more tunable.

There are plenty of LT1 swappers here out there kicking some serious donkey. That is the way I would go given your situation. What number do you have in mind in terms of dollars?
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Old Apr 7, 2003 | 03:31 PM
  #7  
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From: Stevens Point Wisconsin
Car: 1991 Formula
Engine: 350 firebreathing inches of Small Block Chevrolet
Transmission: A 700R4 that has trouble handling the formentioned 350.
Re: opinions please

Originally posted by awdcamaro
Ok, let's say I want to see around 350-400 hp and 400+ lbs/ft of torque at my rear wheels........

I would like to do this as low-cost and effeciently as possible. I will not be doing a carb in this car, I'd never be able to afford all of the gas it would eat.
Well it takes alot of $ to get that kind of horse to the rear wheels (to be cost effective you are going to need a power adder or a Big Block),but forget the FI just use a carb.

Also I'm not sure if a stock AWD set-up from a Sysclone is going to be able to handle a 500+ hp (flywheel) engine. I mean them came stock with 4.3's (granted they had turbo's but no where near 500 ponies)
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Old Apr 8, 2003 | 07:14 PM
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From: Englewood, OH
1991 Syclone Land Speed Record

See FAQ for full information
Set world land speed record for the two-way flying mile:

210.069 top speed
204.145 mph average for flying mile
204.076 mph average for flying kilometer
Normally aspirated 5.0L engine, Max rpm 8000, 549HP @ 7200 RPM, 412 lbs/ft torque @ 6000 RPM, curb weight 3585lbs.
One real truck, three display trucks
This info is from the syty website, where a good portion of my inspiration comes from. Also, I will be doing a normally aspirated fuel-injected engine. :hail: I hope this helps, because a big block or carbing the engine will do just that- make too much power and never see over 10mpg. I'm not too sure how much money I am looking to spend though, I really have no idea what can be done, but I am looking for an LS1 (or LT1 if too expensive) and a six-speed tranny to give everyone an idea of what I will be pushing the mess with. Thanks everybody!
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Old Apr 8, 2003 | 07:34 PM
  #9  
CamaroFreak406's Avatar
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From: Stevens Point Wisconsin
Car: 1991 Formula
Engine: 350 firebreathing inches of Small Block Chevrolet
Transmission: A 700R4 that has trouble handling the formentioned 350.
Originally posted by awdcamaro
1991 Syclone Land Speed Record

See FAQ for full information
Set world land speed record for the two-way flying mile:

210.069 top speed
204.145 mph average for flying mile
204.076 mph average for flying kilometer
Normally aspirated 5.0L engine, Max rpm 8000, 549HP @ 7200 RPM, 412 lbs/ft torque @ 6000 RPM, curb weight 3585lbs.
One real truck, three display trucks
This info is from the syty website, where a good portion of my inspiration comes from. Also, I will be doing a normally aspirated fuel-injected engine. :hail: I hope this helps, because a big block or carbing the engine will do just that- make too much power and never see over 10mpg. I'm not too sure how much money I am looking to spend though, I really have no idea what can be done, but I am looking for an LS1 (or LT1 if too expensive) and a six-speed tranny to give everyone an idea of what I will be pushing the mess with. Thanks everybody!
$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$

Well I guess I may do the same, given an endless supply of cash .
Well really good luck that is going to be a fun project, but very expensive and creative.

Later, Garrett
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Old Apr 11, 2003 | 04:49 AM
  #10  
Cronic3rd's Avatar
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From: Sharonville OH
Car: 98 Z28 vert
Engine: LS1
Transmission: automagic
Axle/Gears: 2.73 - boo racing yay MPG
I would start with a $100 305 untill you get the AWD working then worry about 400+ hp.
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Old Apr 11, 2003 | 06:48 AM
  #11  
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From: Changing Tires
Car: too many ...
I say the cheapest route would be to go with a modified L98. Its true that stock for stock the LT1 will produce more top end power, but swapping in a LT1 costs alot. If you're paying someone else to swap, then it costs even more. If you have an L98 to begin with, you can spend the cost of a LT1 to fix up the L98 and it will be faster than the stock LT1. You can even put a LT1 intake on a L98 for more top end power. But you said you wanted more TQ than HP so I would say stick with the TPI intake. Even if you dont have a L98, its still cheaper than the LT1 and that leaves money for mods. I got a complete L98 w/ 60k miles, Painless Wiring Harness, and 58mm TB for $700. LT1's go for around $1500 so that would be $800 in motor mods. Not to mention a L98 swap is a drop in for our cars, where a LT1 swap will require some modification. If I were you I would tune the motor for more top end power, putting less stress on what sounds will be a very interesting drivetrain setup. But tuning it will really depend on how you want the car to perform.
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Old Apr 14, 2003 | 11:52 AM
  #12  
CamaroFreak406's Avatar
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From: Stevens Point Wisconsin
Car: 1991 Formula
Engine: 350 firebreathing inches of Small Block Chevrolet
Transmission: A 700R4 that has trouble handling the formentioned 350.
Originally posted by CrazyHawaiian
Not to mention a L98 swap is a drop in for our cars, where a LT1 swap will require some modification. If I were you I would tune the motor for more top end power, putting less stress on what sounds will be a very interesting drivetrain setup. But tuning it will really depend on how you want the car to perform.
Hey CrazyHawaiian nice sales picth really, but he doesn't have a Camaro/Firebird he's putting it in a GMC Syclone. So the fact that the L98 drops right in doesn't really matter. But that seems pretty cheap for a complete engine and harness, how many miles?

Later, Garrett
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Old Apr 14, 2003 | 12:01 PM
  #13  
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From: Long Island, NY
Car: '89 RS Convertible
Engine: 355
Transmission: 700R4
Originally posted by CamaroFreak406
Hey CrazyHawaiian nice sales picth really, but he doesn't have a Camaro/Firebird he's putting it in a GMC Syclone. So the fact that the L98 drops right in doesn't really matter.
Later, Garrett
Actually, I think he is thinking of doing this to a Camaro (his name was my first clue). The Syclone was where he got the idea. But I think I'm gonna go with Cronic3rd on this one...with all the challenges this guy faces in the drivetrain, the engine should be the least of his worries.
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Old Apr 14, 2003 | 12:13 PM
  #14  
bes217's Avatar
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From: San Francisco,Ca area
IMO, the LS1 will make the power you are looking for the easiest. You can get a pullout motor for like 2,000 bux. That would be my first choice.
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Old Apr 14, 2003 | 12:53 PM
  #15  
FyreLance's Avatar
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From: Huber Heights, OH
Car: 00 TA, 91 Formula, 89 RS
Engine: LS1 / 305 / 2.8, respectively
Transmission: T-56 / auto / auto
Originally posted by CrazyHawaiian
Not to mention a L98 swap is a drop in for our cars, where a LT1 swap will require some modification.
What kind of modification....?
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Old Apr 14, 2003 | 01:31 PM
  #16  
CamaroFreak406's Avatar
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From: Stevens Point Wisconsin
Car: 1991 Formula
Engine: 350 firebreathing inches of Small Block Chevrolet
Transmission: A 700R4 that has trouble handling the formentioned 350.
Originally posted by Deemax
Actually, I think he is thinking of doing this to a Camaro (his name was my first clue). The Syclone was where he got the idea. But I think I'm gonna go with Cronic3rd on this one...with all the challenges this guy faces in the drivetrain, the engine should be the least of his worries.
My Bad, This guy is going to have his hands totally full. And my main question is (of course) WHY? WHY? WHY? Just to be different? and why cut apart a Syclone for this project? Well if he is going to do it I definetly want pic's of the process this is going to be crazy .

Later, Garrett
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Old Apr 15, 2003 | 02:27 PM
  #17  
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From: Englewood, OH
Ok, yes, this will be going in a camaro (or firebird if the price is right for the body). However, I don't really want to tear up a perfetcly good sy or ty if i can avoid it. I would like to find one that has been wrecked so i can get the awd components from it, or the needed gm parts to make a similar system. I would perfer an lt1 or ls1 with transmission because of the similarities of the transmissiom (same as Lt1 auto). The only reason that I want to do it is to win. I know this will add a few hundred pounds to my car, but the weight will be on wheels that have traction. We all know the weight distribution of our cars slightly favors the front, so why not have some drive there as well? I know it is an odd and exspensive way to do it, but it's what i thinkl is the best idea. DR
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