my 350 needs to have the rings redone and maybe even a bore. I would like t have it stroke to a 383. question is should I have a machine shop do it and I buy the kit of would it be cheaper to just buy a 383 short block from an engine supplier? Does anyone have any *** sources for a budget built 383 short block. I will be using my stealth ram and possibly AFR 190's or the trick flow 23 degree heads. cam will be the LPE 219

 

well if your block is good now and just needs a little bore job then id say stay with the stock block and have it machined

 

Assuming you need to bore your block($100-150), stroking to a 383 can be very cheap, or very expencive......for about $200 more than you you would spend to rebuild the 350, you can have a 383!

Cheap: Bore block, buy a new 383 crank on ebay for $125-200(this is your only added expence away from typical 350 rebuild), then reuse your rods, and buy pistons that are made for a 383 with 5.7" rods(you have to buy new 350 pistons if you bore anways)....$200

Med:383 kit Includes rods, pistons, rings, bearings and crank $679

Expencive: Kits with Forged rods, crank and pistons $1500

 

There is a lot of over-simplification going on here.

That e-bay kit is externally-balanced, 2-piece seal. Add at least another $300 for appropriate damper & flexplate, and seal adapter.

The longer stroke requires grinding on the block oil pan rails for rod clearance. If you're not up to doing that yourself, the machine shop will probably charge as much for that as they do for the boring. You also need to watch the base circle of the cam so you don't get interference there, too.

 

Hes correct, I forgot about the internal/external balance, my bad..
And I just cant seem to get through my head that these motors have different main seals....lol i always forget, Im soo used to pre 87 motors...

 

You'll need to get the rods reconditioned, or better yet get new rods. You can pick up a set of Eagle SIR rods brand new for $200, so it's only a bit more than getting the original rods reconditioned.

 

You can get one-piece rear main, internally balanced 383 cranks. They'll cost about as much more than a "regular" kit as the prices I quoted for the pieces required to make a "regular" kit work. Well worth it, I would think, were I in the market.

Back to your original question: In your shoes, assuming you don't need the car daily, I'd go ahead and do the stuff to your engine. That will most likely be cheaper than buying a crate shortblock. That is especially true if you do as much work (clearancing, assembly) as you can - those machine shop guys expect to be compensated for the work they do.

If down-time is an issue for you, then go with as many purchased parts as you can to reduce the time the engine is out of the car.

 

I say rebuild with your exsisting engine, if time is not a major concern. If you are going to do this do it right. Get quality parts. Have it balanced properly and do the assembly yourself if you are able. Also, you will be best to buy an entire kit. www.stokermotor.com has good prices. I know a guy who is putting together a 383 for an LT1. He says he got the kit through them. Maybe worth checking out. Otherwise becarful. You will need a "stroker" crank because I don't know of any 400s with 1 piece rear seals. Also pistons are designed for the extra stroke, regular 350 pistons will extend past the deck. Stock 5.7 rods will work, but 6" ers are more desirable. After that you should be fine with your equipment you already have...